RCGF 15
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From: San Tan Valley,
AZ
I bought an RCGF 15 from the local distributor.
After a few tries I got it started but it immediately got very hot so I shut it down.
It was very hard to turn over so I decided to disassemble it and see what happened.
The bottom end was full of black crud. I cleaned it out and it seems to be a lot better. I will try it again tomorrow.
They don't lube it at the factory with graphite do they?
After a few tries I got it started but it immediately got very hot so I shut it down.
It was very hard to turn over so I decided to disassemble it and see what happened.
The bottom end was full of black crud. I cleaned it out and it seems to be a lot better. I will try it again tomorrow.
They don't lube it at the factory with graphite do they?
#5
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From: San Tan Valley,
AZ
ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie
were you able to see if the piston or cylinder wall was scored?
were you able to see if the piston or cylinder wall was scored?
I think its not a good idea to use a starter on this engine. There is evidence that the end of the shaft rubbed on the back plate.
#6
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From: San Tan Valley,
AZ
ORIGINAL: Lifer
dirtybird,
Who did you buy it from?
dirtybird,
Who did you buy it from?
www.superstitionhobbies.com
#7
ORIGINAL: dirtybird
I didn't take that apart. It doesn't look bad in the exhaust port.
I think its not a good idea to use a starter on this engine. There is evidence that the end of the shaft rubbed on the back plate.
ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie
were you able to see if the piston or cylinder wall was scored?
were you able to see if the piston or cylinder wall was scored?
I think its not a good idea to use a starter on this engine. There is evidence that the end of the shaft rubbed on the back plate.
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From: San Tan Valley,
AZ
It certainly is the bad crap. There is a lot of it still on the cloth I used to wipe it out with.
The engine still is very stiff. I am going to put some time on it today and see if it loosens up. That is if I can get it to start by hand. If I can't get it to run OK I am going to get my money back. Its supposed to have a two year warren tee.
The engine still is very stiff. I am going to put some time on it today and see if it loosens up. That is if I can get it to start by hand. If I can't get it to run OK I am going to get my money back. Its supposed to have a two year warren tee.
#9

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ORIGINAL: dirtybird
It certainly is the bad crap. There is a lot of it still on the cloth I used to wipe it out with.
The engine still is very stiff. I am going to put some time on it today and see if it loosens up. That is if I can get it to start by hand. If I can't get it to run OK I am going to get my money back. Its supposed to have a two year warren tee.
It certainly is the bad crap. There is a lot of it still on the cloth I used to wipe it out with.
The engine still is very stiff. I am going to put some time on it today and see if it loosens up. That is if I can get it to start by hand. If I can't get it to run OK I am going to get my money back. Its supposed to have a two year warren tee.
I just ran in an RCGF 20 that didn't feel the greatest prior to starting it a few weeks ago. I took the back plate off just to check it out prior to even starting it I was so concerned. Happy to say that after a couple tankfuls of fuel on the ground it felt good enough to launch it. Now, after 15 or 20 more tankfuls, it's fine. Very happy with the engine. But I did do as mentioned to head off/try to prevent any potential issues. Could have all been in my head for all I know though. I didn't see a thing when I took it apart, though I did add a drop of oil to both ends of the rod and cyl. wall when I had it apart? FWIW
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From: San Tan Valley,
AZ
The engine wants to run but its just too stiff. The housing for the rod bearings is contacting the back plate and makes it hard to turn. I am going to make another gasket for the back plate and see if that provides enough clearance to stop the rubbing.
#11

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How about trying to pull the crank further into the case? A properly sized socket and a washer that would allow you to push on the case when the prop nut was drawn down on it? Don't get too carried away, but you might feel it move a little as you tighten the nut down, but no tighter than you would if you were tightening the nut down on a prop!
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From: San Tan Valley,
AZ
The problem turned out to be the bearing in the bottom end of the rod is migrating to the back of the engine.
I was able to push it back into place with a piece of brass tubing and a smack with the hammer. I don't guess it will stay where it is supposed to be. Its probably pressed in but in my case it is not a tight enough fit to keep it in place. The only real cure will be a new rod that has the correct fit. I don't suppose lock tite would stand up to the temperature in there.
Does anyone know if there is anything I could put on there to keep it in place?
I was able to push it back into place with a piece of brass tubing and a smack with the hammer. I don't guess it will stay where it is supposed to be. Its probably pressed in but in my case it is not a tight enough fit to keep it in place. The only real cure will be a new rod that has the correct fit. I don't suppose lock tite would stand up to the temperature in there.
Does anyone know if there is anything I could put on there to keep it in place?
#14

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ORIGINAL: dirtybird
I bought an RCGF 15 from the local distributor.
After a few tries I got it started but it immediately got very hot so I shut it down.
It was very hard to turn over so I decided to disassemble it and see what happened.
The bottom end was full of black crud. I cleaned it out and it seems to be a lot better. I will try it again tomorrow.
They don't lube it at the factory with graphite do they?
I bought an RCGF 15 from the local distributor.
After a few tries I got it started but it immediately got very hot so I shut it down.
It was very hard to turn over so I decided to disassemble it and see what happened.
The bottom end was full of black crud. I cleaned it out and it seems to be a lot better. I will try it again tomorrow.
They don't lube it at the factory with graphite do they?
Easy to fix with either Loctite 609 or in extreme cases, a spot of Tig weld
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From: hemet , CA
i got a rcgf 15 from a local dealer ran 3 tanks of fuel runs good and strong but has a little black oil like coming out the muffler runs cool may be ill call the dealer tomorrow but i like the engine have not tried to had start used a starter starts 3rd flip allen
#16

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ORIGINAL: [email protected]
i got a rcgf 15 from a local dealer ran 3 tanks of fuel runs good and strong but has a little black oil like coming out the muffler runs cool may be ill call the dealer tomorrow but i like the engine have not tried to had start used a starter starts 3rd flip allen
i got a rcgf 15 from a local dealer ran 3 tanks of fuel runs good and strong but has a little black oil like coming out the muffler runs cool may be ill call the dealer tomorrow but i like the engine have not tried to had start used a starter starts 3rd flip allen
#17
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From: San Tan Valley,
AZ
ORIGINAL: apalsson
These are probably aluminum deposits. A common problem in these engines is the crank rubbing up against the back cover. Loosen the back cover bolts and if the engine spins freely, the end cap on the crank shaft hasn't been fitted properly and is rubbing.
Easy to fix with either Loctite 609 or in extreme cases, a spot of Tig weld
ORIGINAL: dirtybird
I bought an RCGF 15 from the local distributor.
After a few tries I got it started but it immediately got very hot so I shut it down.
It was very hard to turn over so I decided to disassemble it and see what happened.
The bottom end was full of black crud. I cleaned it out and it seems to be a lot better. I will try it again tomorrow.
They don't lube it at the factory with graphite do they?
I bought an RCGF 15 from the local distributor.
After a few tries I got it started but it immediately got very hot so I shut it down.
It was very hard to turn over so I decided to disassemble it and see what happened.
The bottom end was full of black crud. I cleaned it out and it seems to be a lot better. I will try it again tomorrow.
They don't lube it at the factory with graphite do they?
Easy to fix with either Loctite 609 or in extreme cases, a spot of Tig weld




