Franco2fly

As I stated previously 20 is overkill 10 is under powered ergo 15 just right

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

I think I'm in agreement with Franco...


The 20cc engines while they may weigh the same as some of the 15cc engines, are a much larger form factor and swing larger props, they can be more difficult to fit in the nose of some of the true .60 size planes, and you can end up with prop clearance issues since your swinging a larger prop than was originally designed for the plane…. You can't fit a dle-20 in an ultrasport .60 for example without chopping off the nose, and a 14" prop is about the max you'll fit without mowing the lawn. The 15GX fits in there nicely with 0 modification though. And quite honestly, for a .60 sized sport plane, you don't need any more power than a 15cc offers… Whats more than unlimited vertical? unlimited vertical plus 1 :-) In many cases opting for the 20cc may work better, but there are cases where the bigger prop and the bigger form factor cause more problems then they are worth. It really depends on the plane.

For a cub, my thought is mainly "less is more"

2walla

My Feedback: (10)

If you are considering the 10 or 15 evolution budget for a new muffler. It is a POS. and yes i have tried all of the recommended fixes to keep it from turning and coming loose. The 15 seems to perform about like a good 61 glow motor. Its running about 11.5k with with a 13x6.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

The 10GX will fly that 60 size Cub just fine ....nice and scale. No need to go to a bigger engine .

Joystick TX

The secret to keeping the muffler from coming loose is to get the long bolt snug, but not super tight, then tighten the locknut. In addition to that, I removed the "O" rings and used Grey Permatex to seal all the joints, including the bolt threads. Let it harden for at least 24 hours. Grey is good for up to 400 degrees. The Permatex will also stop the leaks between the joints. You can also use it between the engine and muffler. I use a fine wet-stone to polish the muffler and engine mating surfaces, then use the Permatex instead of the gasket that comes with the engine. Make sure you clean all the fine metal particles from the engine so they don't get into the cylinder.

If the long bolt is over-tightened, it will break when the muffler gets hot and you will loose the rear end of the muffler.

Franco2fly

I can second the steps Joystik outlined for the muffler. I also found that the 15cc muffler seems to have better seals in the supplied muffler. My only remaining question has to do with the RPM (tachometer) lead that comes from the ignition box. In the lead there is a small plastic device halfway down the lead. What is this device? Anybody know?

KKKKFL

blhollo2

My Feedback: (278)

I've owned over 4 evolution engines and i will tell you.....they all are terrible and dont produce the power of a OS engine or saito.I had one Evolution 120 2 stroke glow and it was weak and had problems out the box.They are made cheaply with less than standard materials..just my opinion!

Joystick TX

I just got back from the flying field and my muffler was loose. The only change I made after 12, 15 min flights, was to remount the engine from upright to side mounted. I may need to redo the muffler with screws to keep the parts from rotating.

Franco2fly

Use Red loktite thread lock and follow joystik's procedures. As for power the EVO line is excellent

the poster saying they are cheaply made is comparing nitro
engines NOT gas. There's a huge difference. These gas engines blow away nitro
power. My only concern is longevity. I've been RC'ing since 1963.

captinjohn

How are the German made needle bearings holding up that was used in the rod? Has anyone got a photo of rod with bearings? Thanks

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

I'm not going to beat around the bush .... The 10GX would be way too small for the GP 60 CUB. First, this plane builds a bit tail heavy with all the heavy construction. With the 10GX, it would require quite a bit of extra weight just for balance. Further, there is no way in HE double L that plane will ever have a finished weight of 8 Lbs unless half of the plane is left in the kit box. That is a large airplane, it has a lot of drag and it tends to be tail heavy. It would probably fly with the 10GX but it wouldn't be any fun at all. It would be underpowered even for a CUB. The owner would be much happier with a larger engine. Any of the 20 sized gassers are a perfect match for this plane and the Evolution 15 would probably be OK also. The 10 might be a good match for the GP 40 CUB but not the 60.

donddsms

My Feedback: (1)

Has anyone ever tried running one of these engines in reverse? I flew two of them this summer in preparation for them powering a Seagull Piper twin Comanche. Counter-rotating props would solve a few problems for me, if it can be safely accomplished. Thanks in advance for sage advice!

Just found earlier posts concerning reverse running. I am interested if the mods become available. I also have two 15's that are going into a VQ P-61, and counter rotation would be nice.

Don

rhd-RCU

My Feedback: (36)

Fox used to offer a reverse rotation crank. I don't think Evolution does.

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

Right, I had inquired about this some time ago. Short answer is "as is", the 10GX won't run in reverse properly, however if there was enough interest then they would consider marketing a reverse rotation 10GX. I'd love to have one as well… unfortunately I doubt the interest is strong enough for this to happen.

dwaynenancy

My Feedback: (62)

Did you build from a kit? How did you power the airplane? I have a kit and am looking for another as my kit says 1 or xxx.

talk the torque

Can someone please give me advice. I have bought a 40size H9 stick and a 10cc gas Evolution engine. The space is quite tight and also looks like it will end up nose heavy. I am thinking about moving the ignition back to help the CG. My question is how close can I get the ignition to the Rx without RF noice being a problem and also the ignition and rx batteries? I'm using aJR 8ch DMSS rx.

My next question is this H9 kit comes with steel pushrods for the throttle and steerable nose gear. They have nylon clevises at the ends but run quite close to the ignition unit. Would they act as an aerial for RF noice going back to the radio gear?

Thanks for any help
TtT

Marty H.

I have the GP Big Stik 40, I think they are somewhat similar the H9 Stik 40. Mine was nose heavy, so I put the Rx (4 cell nimh) about half way back towards the tail and she balances perfectly. I put the ignition on the throttle side and used a golden rod for the throttle. I left the steering linkage metal and put the ignition battery on that side. I have my receiver in front of the servos. I use Frsky rx and have not had one glitch in about 3 1/2 gallons of flying. Here is a pic, excuse the mess I had a fuel leak at the end of the season. There is a bit of extra wiring in there for telemetry.

Joystick TX

I converted my H9 stick to a taildragger and mounted the servos in the tail. I also have the 5 cell NiMi battery mounted just behind the wing. No problems with the balance that way.

talk the torque

Thanks very much that helps a lot

talk the torque

Will this supplied Viton fuel tubing become softer once saturated with fuel for awhile? I have an 8oz tank but the clunk doesnt fall to the bottom as I turn the tank as the tubing is too rigid.

I also dont really want to use this felt clunk if I can get away with it. Surely the in line filter will catch any debris. I dont like the felt clunk as when you fill up it will catch the dirt on the wrong side of it unless if you have a separate filler but then it will flood the carb unless you can nip the carb line each time. Plus I feel you will have to leave fuel in a tank with a felt clunk as it will get that fuel/oil glazing on it. Any tips with this?

Thanks TtT

Joystick TX

This engine uses very little fuel, so the carb passages are very small and can clog very easily. That is why the felt filter is used, it will block small debris in the fuel that would clog the passages, the regular fuel filter will not stop them and they will plug up your carb and cause the engine to run badly or not at all.

Even if you filter the fuel when you fill up your tank, there can be quite a bit of debris that can enter the fuel tank from the muffler pressure line. A regular filter on that line will help some, but it will not block the very small particles.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

That's the problem I had and changed to Tygon for inside the tank. I was having a lot of deadsticks and thought there was a leak. I pulled the tank and noticed the clunk not flexing properly on the Viton tubing. I changed the tubing and I changed the clunk to a heavier brass sintered clunk and no more deadsticks and no air bubbles in the line.

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

you can certainly try other installation methods. if you dig back to the beginning of this thread you'll find that the evolution reps posted the reasoning for the filtered clunk. My setup was the 10GX with an 8oz dubro tank, stock recommended setup, meaning filtered clunk,muffler pressure line, and the black tubing. I had 1 dead stick all year which was more my fault than the engines. The rest of the time I was extremely happy with the setup. So, know that the stock recommended setup works...

Might be worth getting it running with the recommended setup first, and then switch it over to what you want to do afterwards. That way if there are issues its easier to diagnose later.

talk the torque

Thanks guys I appreciate your help, this really helps me

Brian are you saying you use no felt filtering and just the in line filter?

Ernie Misner

I found only one good solution to clunk tubing in such a small tank. If you go to Lowes or Home Depot where they sell the weed eaters and parts, look for the Echo brand black fuel tubing. It is about the size of medium glow tubing and SUPER FLEXIBLE. It is the answer. Also the felt clunk seems too big and heavy for such a small tank. With the Echo tubing you can use a regular glow clunk, then put a filter in the line to the carb. The Echo tubing should be good to go with ethanol gas since being sold now in today's market.