I've been using a BME 44 for the last few years and I've always had a problem getting it primed to start. Once I do get gas in the carb it runs fine but just turning the prop and trying to plug the carb just doesn't do the trick very well. Has anyone tried using a primer bulb with this engine? Will it work that way? Just trying to figure out something a little quicker. Thanks for any help..

What kind of carb is it? Dan

It's a walbro carb.

i have a 44 also,try soldering the hole closed in the choke valve,the carb may need rebuilt too.

If I did get a carb rebuild kit how do I know which to get? I think I saw the letters wt and a faint 2012 I think.. hard to read

This will help.
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/s...s/WTseries.pdf

http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/group2.asp?FamilyName=WT

The rebuild kit for the WT series is K20-WAT. They all use the same kit. Dan

So am I to assume if it's not sucking in fuel correctly when priming there must be a leak somewhere? A rebuild kit is fairly inexpensive so I may try it. Any hardware store should have these shouldn't they? Thanks for the helpful

You are sucking air somewhere

Look under "Lawn Mower" in the phone book. They usually have them but call first. These guys have them or try Ebay. You can also try flowing some solder over the hole in the choke plate and make sure that the plate is seating correctly. Dan.

http://www.outdoordistributors.com

Dan.

Though if everything is working properly it shouldn't be a problem to get fuel to the carb, here is some info about your original question about primer bulbs:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_86...mpage_2/tm.htm (First post in that thread)

Sometimes rocking the prop back and forth helps get the fuel up faster than flipping the prop. Make sure your choke is closing all the way, and look for air/vacuum leaks in the entire fuel system and carb/manifold, etc.

AV8TOR

one more thing,i forgot this till w8ye mention air leak.check the aluminum ring connection where the carb mounts to the engine mine had a leak there.i used high temp silicon to seal it.

All great responses. Fun reading!! I own a BME 44 and fly it daily. It's on a OMP 17 lb profile and it flies it with authority. My fuel tank is mounted under the wing (hard to make a profile pretty) so the distance to the engine is like sucking it up from China. The guys who mention "carb kits" are right on. I have had to replace my "flapper" a couple of time. Soldering the small hole shut on the choke butterfly helps also. Mine requires about 4 flips with the choke on before it fires, then 4-7 flips to fire and run. Any air leaks in the mount or bubbles noticeable in the fuel line are show stoppers. I reall like my BME 44. Powerfu and extremely reliable. Good luck with yours!!!

One more note, you may be closer to help for the Walbrocarb kit than you think. I get mine from a local small engine repair shop. But the "all models" kit # K20WATand you will get the parts for your kit.Just replaceing the rubber "flappers" is easy and will get you running most times. Good luck. Larry

Well I took the carb apart to take a look at things and found 2 things that may have caused me problems. The first being that I noticed was one of the bolts holding the carb on the motor wasn't on very tight and the second being the filter screen inside the carb had a bunch of gunk on it. I will be getting a rebuild kit this week and reinstall it on my plane and see how it works then.

That will probably fix it. A properly operating carb/fuel system will draw fuel 3 feet straight up.

AV8TOR

I just acquired a used BME 44. What prop are you guys using and how do you like the engine? I need to decide on a plane for it. I prefer ww1 and ww2 warbirds.

I use a 20 x 8 zinger on my extra 300 patty wagstaff edition.. almost endless vertical and does perfect knife edge flight. never had any big issues with the engine. always runs well.

What type of ignition do you have? Mine has an old C and H. Have not tried to run it yet.

I believe mine has the same ignition.. never had any problems

I have flown my BME 44 on the front of GP Pitts for several years after it retired the Cap 232 it was on by quitting in the middle of a touch and go.

I use 20x10 props

It had a C&H ignition on it until the last radio failure when the ignition module took the brunt of the arrival force and Bill was sick.

well I finally got around to putting the carb back on after installing a new rebuild kit. the fuel seems to be drawn into the carb the way it should now. Starting should be easier now.. once it gets a little warmer out I will give it a try.. thanks for the help