Hi all, I just bought my first gasser, a DLE 35. I have been reading up a lot on it and found most of my answers, but I have one quick one. I know it says not to use metal throttle linkage, how critical is this?will it interfere with the radio or something?just wondering cause I want to start the break in, and I have every thing all set except for the linkage. All I have is push rods or steel cable and won't be able to get to my LHS for a week or two. Any thoughts? Thanks, Steve.

The actual linkage can be steel rod, cable, fiberglass, carbon fiber .... whatever you prefer to use. Just don't use metal ends to connect to the throttle arm on the carb. The use of a bolt on ball link is considered common practice on gassers. This provides good electrical isolation and mechanical integrity.

oh, sweet. i guess what i read wasnt very clear. that makes it a whole lot easier. i have all kinds if ball links. Thanks alot. Also, does the ign module have to go on the other side of the fire wall inside the fuse, or can i mount it under the cowl on the fire wall?thanks again for taking the time to answer , steve

Personally I prefer to mount the ignition unit behind the firewall whenever possible. However lots of guys mount them ahead of the firewall. Just provide for heat and vibration protection if you do so.

AV8TOR

Usually the module is strapped to the side of the engine box with a couple of tie wraps. Use velcro to cushion the module from the box side.

Mike

Thanks for answering me, SteveSteve

Steve, follow the directions from your radio manufacturer. Send them an email for the correct answers to your questions. They are much more qualified than anyone else to give you the right answers. Dan.

I don't believe I've ever read any radio directions that referenced the mechanics of a throttle linkage.

Since Steve has no idea what the qualifications are of any body on RCU are to discuss this subject, I thought it would be a good idea for him to get in touch with the manufacturer of his RC equipment and get the answer from some body who really knows. This is a very important subject and could lead to an in flight failure if the wrong advice is given and followed by Steve. So Steve, do us all a favor and send out that email. Please post the response you get. Dan.

Send an email to who? Futaba?i don't think they deal in throttle linkages. Besides, I thought that was the main reason for a forum, to ask and answer questions from people with more experience in a certain area. If you don't feel like taking the time to answer a simple question, then don't.but don't try to send me away because you don't feel like it. There are plenty of good guys on this site with tons of knowledge and experience who would be more than happy to answer a simple question. After all, that is the point here, right?

Good point Steve. Here is a quote from the Futaba website.

Guidelines for setting up gasoline engine models.
All ignition equipment, including an electronic kill switch, must be mounted at least 12", and preferably 14", away from all radio equipment, including throttle servos, etc. Ignition kill switch should always be on opposite side of fuselage from radio kill switch. All pushrods going to anything related to the engine must be non-conductive (just nonmetal clevises is not sufficient).

Now, it is up to you to decide who knows more about your radio equipment, Futaba or someone on RCU.

Good luck with your new hobby. Dan.

Dan, I'm certainly not trying to start a pissing match here. I was simply seeing what others before me have done. Of course I would take toe word of futaba over some one I don't even know, but if I asked and like 10 people jumped in and said they all crashed planes, then I would look no further, simply getting a feel for what others have done. Thanks, Steve.

Steve, I should probably just bow out of this discussion but ........

The other responder chimes in on almost every issue where there is even the smallest possibility of a radio interference problem regarding a gasser installation. I guess he feels the need to be the "guardian of the engine to radio separation rules". To say the least, he appears to be ultra-conservative in this area .... to the point that if his installation guidelines were followed to the letter, very few gas powered airplanes would ever be allowed to fly. Most couldn't possibly meet his installation limitations so they would have to stay grounded. Caution is important and I don't want to minimize that but there is a limit and that is where range checks and regular maintenance and inspections come into play.

Today, there are many points about radio installations that have become normal and accepted. Not all of these things meet the strict 10", 12" or whatever separation rule but many thousands of modelers follow these accepted practices and successfully fly their airplanes to a ripe old age.

As the other gentleman said, there are many opinions on these forums. I sense that you are smart enough to sort through this mass of information and use bits of this info to your advantage. Likewise accept or reject these words as you see fit.

Thanks truck racer, that's about where I am with all of this. There's not nearly enough room for 14 inches of separation, so I just leave the plane on the shelf? No way. I will separate as best as possible, and take the info that all of you who know better that me give up, and give it a shot. I ALWAYS range test, NO exceptions. I am a full scale pilot also, so I am very big on check lists and pre flight checks. At first hint of radio interference, or any thing out of the norm, and she don't fly until the problem is fixed. I appreciate your help, and think I found my answer. Btw, there are guys like this at my club. I take what I want, and leave the rest. Thanks, Steve.

One bit that I believe all will agree on .... be sure the plug cap is always pushed all the way on the plug, to where all of the hex part of the plug is covered. Some even use a small hose clamp around the base of the cap to insure it stays tight. Also, do everything in your power to protect the plug lead. Spiral wrap, split wire protectors, etc. A sharp edge on a cowl or the lead rubbing against anything will quickly abrade the shielding which can lead to interference, a dead engine or at minimum will cost $$ when a replacement is needed.

Good luck with your project.