Forgive if already covered elsewhere, pls. Need to confirm whether my DLE 20 has the ignition "with" the step-hold timing or not? Is there a version code marked that would let me know? Is there a "for sure" method to test for the advance curve to be sure?

The old DLE #4 is the "Step Down" ignition.

The ignitions from RCEXL and branded as RCEXL are not step down types.

Thanks. Mine is marked 'DL Power", does not have a "#4" (or other numbers), but is marked "A-02".
Any idea what I have?

The Rcexl A-02 version is the newer one that should be marked to accept up to 8.4 Volts. This should have an acceptable advance (retard) curve and not be like the previous #4 supplied with the 20.

Thanks, TR - mine isn't marked RcExl, but DL Power, with the A-02, but also is marked 4.8 - 8.4v....I'm assuming that even though not marked RC Exl, it is in fact theirs, just badged for DLE ?

correct

I also have a new DLE 20 with the model A-02 ignition. This is also my first Gasser and I don't see any actual instructions on how to deal with the ignition. I have read Gassers for Dummies and a lot of other info and talked to Gas guys but it would sure be nice if anyone could direct me to the correct thread for ignitions.

Barry - anyone on here would be able to assist. General setup guidelines are in my sticky post at the top of the forum (with other contributions included). If you have any specific questions, just fire away!

Bob, the 8.4 volt capacity is your assurance you don't have that "step". Those are ONLY on the 4.8v. modules.

Thanks Bob, I have read your thread multiple times and have learned a lot from it. I have a zillion questions but having been around for a while I just don't want to inundate the Gas Forums with 932 questions all at once. I figure lurking, listening, asking questions at my club and with my other RC friends that are into Gassers and I will get there without being to obnoxious. I know there are a lot of guys here to help and that is why I am here.

So having the A-02 module that is rated for up to 8.4v means I can dive the ignition directly with a 2 cell lipo? I just need a mechanical switch, optical switch, and a lipo of??? 1800, 2200, 3000 mah?

I am always appreciative of comments, suggestions, and assessments.

That,s the news I was hoping for! Thanks!!

Exactly. Most would agree that higher mah is good thing. Since it is a very good idea to have on board kill, I would go with the Rcexcel optical kill/switch. Battery to fuse mounted mechanical switch; out from that to optical switch IN, optical switch OUT to Ignition module power input.
That configuration is my preference;there are many different ways to get same results.

You have the new RCEXL ignition,Works great on DL 20 or any other engine.Use at least 6 volts on this unit.
BCCHI

Thanks, Bill...I use 6v throughout these days, so that's good.

Single A123/Life supplying power to the entire flight pack is a pretty popular setup.

Yup - been using that before we knew they would destroy the early ignitions due to over-voltage (not)
Right now, it's hard to beat a straight LiFe setup, providing servos are up to the 6.6v. Believe it or not, some not-so-name-brand but high quality servos really HATE 6.6 v. That was interesting to learn...

Most of my Rx batts are 2 cell lipos running through a Losi 6v regulator that will flow 5a continuously. I just need to check and make sure it will flow enough current. How much current do these ignitions need?

Page 5 - 6 has a real good setup picture and explanation - http://manuals.hobbico.com/dle/dleg0435-manual.pdf which applies to any of these smaller setups.

Bob, they also have one for the 20 LINK

600mah for 1 hour of full throttle (9000 rpm), less as the RPM goes down.

Yep...was just posting one as an example. In the not-so-"old days" of these DLE's and RCxcel ignitions, it was impossible to get any procedures or suggestions from anyone. Things have improved significantly since those times....if you farted sideways, the ignitions would pop.

I would have had a problem back then.

We did, believe me!!!!!

Thanks K, my Losi regulators will work fine I see. I just need to get an optical switch to kill the motor from the Tx.