I have a new out of the box DLE55RA installed in a GP Revolver. It draws prime fuel from the tank good. It will start on high idle, run on the prime, and then quit. It will start on mid throttle and run on mid to high throttle. However, as soon as I lower the throttle to idle it quits. The engine will do this no matter what needle position I have the carb set at. The fuel system is new and I have conducted a pressure check on it with no leaks. I have removed the carb and checked the reed valves for proper seating. I have disasembled the carb and everything looks good. All the bolts on the engine and carb are tight. This has become a real pain. My flying buddy has a DLE35RA and he has the same problem. Has anyone experienced this problem? Is there something I can do to fix it? Will appreciate any suggestions. Thanks Happy Hooligan

What you're describing really sounds like an issue with the low speed needle setting, yet you say it does that no matter where you have the needle set? So I have to ask, have you tried opening the needle way up, to like 2.5-3 turns?

I started at the factory settings (1-1/2 turns) and have gone out to 4 turns with no change. It still stopped at throttle to idle.

I, and a friend had the same problem. Get rid of the DLE carb and put a Wall-bro on there

Had the tip of the needle break off and remained stucked in the needle seat. It was hard to find......not until both needles were out laying side by side did I notice part of the low needle was missing.

Just one of the crazy things that can happen that make you scratch your head........worth a look.

I have two DLE 35RA engines that had a similar problem. The fix was adjusting the L needle out until it ran regardless of the factory setting range. Both engines run fine and respond to needle adjustments both in temp and RPM.
The engines are in full cowls.
I have a DLE 55RA as well and I have never had any issues since new with it. Also full cowl installation. Ive made very minor adjustments since new on that carb and been an awesome engine. At around 25 flights the stock muffler broke apart so watch that. You will see a leak of black oil residue around the manifold weld before it breaks.

Maybe take a look at the reed block and sand it flat to be sure the reeds seat flat to the surface and do not leak. Then assemble and try again. Also adjust the low speed needle until it runs regardless of what you think it should be or not. If it runs at 5 turns out then thats a result. Then if it runs ok and reliable your good to go.

A Warlboro carb would be better but there are many models to choose from so you have to match it to the engine. I dont recall the model number but a quick search and comparison would answer that.

To the OP:

Couple of questions for you.

1. Is your vent tubing open and no kinks?
2. How far down are you going on idle as far as RPM?
3. Is your butterfly valve closing all the way when you go to idle? It should be open a smidge. at your lowest idle setting.
4. Have you replaced the DLE plug with an NGK or similar?
5 Have you ensured the spark plug boot in firmly seated?
6 ensure the carb spacer block is orientated properly and no cracks?
7. What voltage are you using for ignition?
8. Lastly you might take the back plate off and ensure the diaphragm is intact and not cracked.

Hope this helps

Glenn

If it has the original DLE sparkplug throw it away and install an NGK CM6 plug. The DLE plugs are crap and can cause an engine to be very hard to tune and run (or not) unpredictably.

+1 on the NGK CM6
I did fly my Corsair on the stock plug for a few flights before I noticed misfires to see for myself how bad the stock plug is. Its terrible. All the guys in our club who use any DLE engines have replaced the DLE plug.