Engine too long
#1
Hello all!
Just wondering if anyone has had a problem with an engine being too long? I have a plane that calls for the firewall/prop washer distance to be 6 11/16". My plan is to put a DLE 85 on it, which has a length of 7.87 (7 14/16) measured from the back of the mount to the front of the prop washer. That will make the prop stick out pretty far, over an inch too far. The cowl is not long enough to drill new holes.
I know I could just suck it up and deal with it. Who's going to notice a big 1" gap between the spinner and cowl on a plane dancing up there? Me. And it will drive me nuts!
Anyone know of any shorter standoffs that fit the DLE 85? I know I can go with a different engine but I really don't want to. DLE has never failed me, and if it ain't broke... Besides, I kinda already have the engine...
Any ideas?
Just wondering if anyone has had a problem with an engine being too long? I have a plane that calls for the firewall/prop washer distance to be 6 11/16". My plan is to put a DLE 85 on it, which has a length of 7.87 (7 14/16) measured from the back of the mount to the front of the prop washer. That will make the prop stick out pretty far, over an inch too far. The cowl is not long enough to drill new holes.
I know I could just suck it up and deal with it. Who's going to notice a big 1" gap between the spinner and cowl on a plane dancing up there? Me. And it will drive me nuts!
Anyone know of any shorter standoffs that fit the DLE 85? I know I can go with a different engine but I really don't want to. DLE has never failed me, and if it ain't broke... Besides, I kinda already have the engine...
Any ideas?
#2

My Feedback: (19)
There are quite a few different standoffs available including DA, SMB, Horizon / Evolution, etc. just to mention a few. You can even make them yourself. Companies such as McMaster Carr sell threaded or just center drilled spacers that can be used as standoffs for our applications. You could also consider moving the firewall back the necessary inch which I have done on several occasions. You have quite a few options to resolve the problem.
Also, what plane are you working on. If one of the YAKs or other round cowl planes, having the prop a bit out front is really no problem. Of course on something like a Extra or Edge, that is not really an option.
Also, what plane are you working on. If one of the YAKs or other round cowl planes, having the prop a bit out front is really no problem. Of course on something like a Extra or Edge, that is not really an option.
#3
Senior Member
My Feedback: (5)
There are quite a few different standoffs available including DA, SMB, Horizon / Evolution, etc. just to mention a few. You can even make them yourself. Companies such as McMaster Carr sell threaded or just center drilled spacers that can be used as standoffs for our applications. You could also consider moving the firewall back the necessary inch which I have done on several occasions. You have quite a few options to resolve the problem.
Also, what plane are you working on. If one of the YAKs or other round cowl planes, having the prop a bit out front is really no problem. Of course on something like a Extra or Edge, that is not really an option.
Also, what plane are you working on. If one of the YAKs or other round cowl planes, having the prop a bit out front is really no problem. Of course on something like a Extra or Edge, that is not really an option.
#4

My Feedback: (2)
I've "sectioned" the motor mount box to shorten that up when the only other option was to cut a big hole in it to allow the carb to be moved back.
If you need 1 3/16" shorter take it right out of the center, then rejoin the 2 halves. You can do this so it's not going to be a lot heavier, and it will likely be much stronger.
If you need 1 3/16" shorter take it right out of the center, then rejoin the 2 halves. You can do this so it's not going to be a lot heavier, and it will likely be much stronger.
#5
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From: Blackfoot ,
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I could make you some custom standoffs, but I will be honest you can make your own from a piece of hardwood 5/8-3/4 doweling for much less. A miter saw will assure a good square cut and keep all 4 the same length.. Then just a matter of drilling a hole in the center to allow for the bolt to slide though. use a vice and drill press to get the holes as straight as possible .




