Gas/oil mix and ring replacement
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (6)
Gas/oil mix and ring replacement
Ok I have a 26 cc (Chinese) engine with about 15+ hours on it and it started to lose RPM, so it was recommended to in stall a Bowman ring, witch I have now done, following Mr. Bowman's instructions I am in the process of break in using a 32;1 mix using a Valvoline 2cycle oil certified as meeting TC-W3 and 100 ave gas. the instructions did not mention scuffing the cylinder wall,
So the Question is do I need to run the engine on the rich side for the first few tanks of fuel, I got 18 minutes of run time on the first full tank, in 3 separate runs of 6 +/- 1, on the first run I had to richen it to get a 2K idle, and stayed below 1/2 throttle. Second run the same idle and after about 4 minutes short burst to full throttle, same thing on third run letting engine run at about 2.5 K before shut down. have been holding a paper towel under exhaust ports, not much residue is showing.
Cheers Bob T
So the Question is do I need to run the engine on the rich side for the first few tanks of fuel, I got 18 minutes of run time on the first full tank, in 3 separate runs of 6 +/- 1, on the first run I had to richen it to get a 2K idle, and stayed below 1/2 throttle. Second run the same idle and after about 4 minutes short burst to full throttle, same thing on third run letting engine run at about 2.5 K before shut down. have been holding a paper towel under exhaust ports, not much residue is showing.
Cheers Bob T
#2
Unlike ringed glow engines a gas engine should not be run overly rich. For completion of your ring break in I suggest that you tune the engine for max rpm and slightly richen the high end to reduce max.rpm by say 300, check for a reliable idle and finish breaking in the ring by putting the engine in a model and flying without doing any sustained full power flying for the first gallon or so.
#4
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (6)
Unlike ringed glow engines a gas engine should not be run overly rich. For completion of your ring break in I suggest that you tune the engine for max rpm and slightly richen the high end to reduce max.rpm by say 300, check for a reliable idle and finish breaking in the ring by putting the engine in a model and flying without doing any sustained full power flying for the first gallon or so.
It now has 30+ minutes run time on the ground, great throttle response, idle is at 1880 to 2010 running a xora 18 X 8 and have only gone to full bore for about 30 seconds at a time and only after the engine has run for 2 to 3 minutes tack's about 6400 +/- 50, so it could be over propped, I think this engine should be turning 7K+ will install the cowl, and re check top end. may try a vora 17 X 8 and see how that works.
Weather hear is predicted wind rain next 2 days.
#5
My Feedback: (6)
I agree to go ahead and fly it, and I would use a 16 or 17 x 8 prop on it. Later, you might also try an 18 x 6 from how you describe your plane.
Frank does indeed recommend gently scuffing the cylinder with #400 or 600 sandpaper and solvent before re-assembly with one of his new rings, as do I.
AV8TOR
Frank does indeed recommend gently scuffing the cylinder with #400 or 600 sandpaper and solvent before re-assembly with one of his new rings, as do I.
AV8TOR
#7
I agree with AV8TOR that an 18x8 prop is a bit much for your engine and based on the plane you are using it in I would suggest a 17x6 or 18x6 and see which one works best.
#9
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (6)
Well guys Got a chance to run the engine with the 17 X 8 with the smaller/lighter prop had to do a bit of tuning What I would call clicks or about 2 points on a 32 point compass, low needle 2 clicks leaner, and 3 on the hi needle Idle remained solid at 1980 to 2010 nice smooth transition and I picked up a full 1,000 at full throttle 7400 to 7500 + but still not running more than 30 to 45 seconds at full bore, and still no cowl.
So all seams to be good for now.
Cheers Bob T
So all seams to be good for now.
Cheers Bob T