Evolution 33 premature wear
10-10-2015, 12:36 PM
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Evolution 33 premature wear
I have to admit right from the beginning that I know very little about gas engines and for years have operated them by the book with no problems, at least that I am aware of.
I have an evolution 33 in a Hanger 9 Cub and have been flying it for about one year and I doubt it has much more than a few hours maybe 25 to 30 flights. To day I discovered that the bearing where the connecting rod and crank shaft connect. The wear is severe to the point where it rattles very loud. I always use gas mixture at 32:1 with sthil oil. The engine up to today has been great. i am wondering why this failure has occurred. I have noticed the the exhaust residue has been very black right from the beginning and now suspect that there has been a problem right from the beginning. Being an engine dummy I may have missed an obvious problem.
My question is why this has failed prematurely and is it my fault?
I have an evolution 33 in a Hanger 9 Cub and have been flying it for about one year and I doubt it has much more than a few hours maybe 25 to 30 flights. To day I discovered that the bearing where the connecting rod and crank shaft connect. The wear is severe to the point where it rattles very loud. I always use gas mixture at 32:1 with sthil oil. The engine up to today has been great. i am wondering why this failure has occurred. I have noticed the the exhaust residue has been very black right from the beginning and now suspect that there has been a problem right from the beginning. Being an engine dummy I may have missed an obvious problem.
My question is why this has failed prematurely and is it my fault?
10-10-2015, 07:29 PM
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The crankpin probably wasn't hardened enough or perhaps just a bad bearing. I doubt that you caused the problem. Unless you run a gasser way lean or don't provide adequate cooling, there isn't much you can do to damage it and even under these two conditions, the piston and cylinder would show wear before the crank and rod bearings.Send it in under warranty then just fly it again.
10-11-2015, 04:52 AM
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10-11-2015, 04:54 AM
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The crankpin probably wasn't hardened enough or perhaps just a bad bearing. I doubt that you caused the problem. Unless you run a gasser way lean or don't provide adequate cooling, there isn't much you can do to damage it and even under these two conditions, the piston and cylinder would show wear before the crank and rod bearings.Send it in under warranty then just fly it again.
10-11-2015, 12:21 PM
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Reading the instruction sheet that came with the engine it says " Do not use Amsoil synthetic oil in any form". Any ideas why? I know several guys who swear by Amsoil.
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10-11-2015, 03:14 PM
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There are many threads in the various forums about Amsoil and I'm sure some are factual and some not so much. In general, they suggest that Amsoil creates a very hard carbon that is very hard to remove and also tends to stick rings. Used at the suggested ratios, there is not enough oil to properly lubricate and protect many engines that are poorly cooled or run a bit lean as it offers little oil cushion or protection in these conditions. There are probably many successful Amsoil users out there but for me and simply stated, there are more suitable oils available.
My only experience with Amsoil in an RC engine was when I bought a used Brison 2.4 on one of the forums. This was a mid time engine that had been run extensively on Amsoil Saber at an unknown ratio. I didn't see any excessive wear in this engine and it hadn't been abused but the carbon that was present was extremely hard and the ring was just on the verge of being stuck on the exhaust side of the piston. I always examine and clean up any used engine I buy or get by any means. That hard carbon was almost plated on the piston and cylinder head. Even the piston skirt had a thin layer of a baked on varnish like substance that was difficult to remove when this cleans off easily when other oils are used. The carbon wasn't overly thick but almost impossible to remove by any normal means. That was enough to confirm the rumors about Amsoil to my satisfaction.
If you want hours of reading do a Google search for Amsoil Sabre / Sabre (sp?) used in RC engines.
My only experience with Amsoil in an RC engine was when I bought a used Brison 2.4 on one of the forums. This was a mid time engine that had been run extensively on Amsoil Saber at an unknown ratio. I didn't see any excessive wear in this engine and it hadn't been abused but the carbon that was present was extremely hard and the ring was just on the verge of being stuck on the exhaust side of the piston. I always examine and clean up any used engine I buy or get by any means. That hard carbon was almost plated on the piston and cylinder head. Even the piston skirt had a thin layer of a baked on varnish like substance that was difficult to remove when this cleans off easily when other oils are used. The carbon wasn't overly thick but almost impossible to remove by any normal means. That was enough to confirm the rumors about Amsoil to my satisfaction.
If you want hours of reading do a Google search for Amsoil Sabre / Sabre (sp?) used in RC engines.
03-18-2016, 07:09 AM
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Evolution 33 brother...I really wanted to like this engine, but 3 weeks after I bought the Hanger 9 Super Cub PNP, its been nothing but difficult starting, bad vibrations, complex break-in procedures, finally ending up in what I suspect is a failed needle bearing on the con rod, same as you. Only mine died on warranty and it happened quick!
As I mentioned, the motor came as standard equipment on the Hanger 9 PA-18 Super Cub PNP distributed by Horizon Hobby and was sent back to them for warranty service yesterday. Over $1500 on the plane and floats and I would surely rather be at the lake than waiting on the motor to return... lol... Really, Im crying now because the wind is supposed to be less than 5mph today and the Hanger 9 1/4 scale floats are fitted.
First let me say, I am and engineer and have a machine shop at home...Bridgeport mill with rotary table, Emco Maier CNC Lathe, Enco 10 x 40 Gearhead Lathe, surface grinder, granite surface table, mostly Starrett measuring tools. Not trying to boast, just letting readers know Ive learned a couple of things during the 35 years Ive spent programming CNC machine tools for the glass mould industry. I acquired the shop equipment for 2 stroke engine development when my son road raced a various 2 strokes in WERA vintage motorcycle racing series.
I also have 10 years of past good experiences with Zenoah... never a break-in procedure required, and ZERO failures. My current Zenoah G26 starts consistently on the 4-5 flip by hand. Once the needles were set initially, I have never had to readjust them in the 5 years I have been flying with this particular motor.
Back to the Evolution 33 GX... as I said, it came in a PNP 1/4 scale Hanger 9 Super Cub. fuel tank in stock location. I had to flip this motor 15 - 20 times to get the carb to prime with the choke closed and WOT...then it would barely fire. Comparing the Rexcel ignition of the Zenoah to the ignition of the Evolution with the same input voltage from a stable bench DC power supply, the Zenoah had a huge spark compared to the Evolution during hand start prop flips.
Break-in procedure was followed to the letter on the Evolution 33 , although in my experience with the Yamaha road race 2 strokes, these types of procedures were necessary when engine machining tolerances were suspect. As I said, look at the Zenoah manual... no break-in required, so there is never a potential argument over whether you followed the procedure correctly! When I opened up the rear crankcase cover, the con rod needle bearing measured about .007" slop and the con rod had started hitting the case. I think Im having Evolution remorse, lol
As I mentioned, the motor came as standard equipment on the Hanger 9 PA-18 Super Cub PNP distributed by Horizon Hobby and was sent back to them for warranty service yesterday. Over $1500 on the plane and floats and I would surely rather be at the lake than waiting on the motor to return... lol... Really, Im crying now because the wind is supposed to be less than 5mph today and the Hanger 9 1/4 scale floats are fitted.
First let me say, I am and engineer and have a machine shop at home...Bridgeport mill with rotary table, Emco Maier CNC Lathe, Enco 10 x 40 Gearhead Lathe, surface grinder, granite surface table, mostly Starrett measuring tools. Not trying to boast, just letting readers know Ive learned a couple of things during the 35 years Ive spent programming CNC machine tools for the glass mould industry. I acquired the shop equipment for 2 stroke engine development when my son road raced a various 2 strokes in WERA vintage motorcycle racing series.
I also have 10 years of past good experiences with Zenoah... never a break-in procedure required, and ZERO failures. My current Zenoah G26 starts consistently on the 4-5 flip by hand. Once the needles were set initially, I have never had to readjust them in the 5 years I have been flying with this particular motor.
Back to the Evolution 33 GX... as I said, it came in a PNP 1/4 scale Hanger 9 Super Cub. fuel tank in stock location. I had to flip this motor 15 - 20 times to get the carb to prime with the choke closed and WOT...then it would barely fire. Comparing the Rexcel ignition of the Zenoah to the ignition of the Evolution with the same input voltage from a stable bench DC power supply, the Zenoah had a huge spark compared to the Evolution during hand start prop flips.
Break-in procedure was followed to the letter on the Evolution 33 , although in my experience with the Yamaha road race 2 strokes, these types of procedures were necessary when engine machining tolerances were suspect. As I said, look at the Zenoah manual... no break-in required, so there is never a potential argument over whether you followed the procedure correctly! When I opened up the rear crankcase cover, the con rod needle bearing measured about .007" slop and the con rod had started hitting the case. I think Im having Evolution remorse, lol
03-18-2016, 08:07 AM
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Already sent back yesterday as I said in the post... just a shame to miss a couple of weeks of flying weather. The point i was trying to make was, when given a choice of having a motor you can count on for years and a motor that dies from bearing failure during recommended break-in... I'll choose a motor that doesn't have to be sent back. ;-)
03-18-2016, 09:02 AM
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Horizon sent me replacement parts at no cost. We will see. Never had any problems starting engine except occasionally getting initial prime, but not as bad as you. I have a 2nd one in their Beaver with very few flights and no starting or running problems, yet!
