Idle screw and spring
#1
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Idle screw and spring
I'm new to gas engines and I've been told by members in my hobby club to remove the idle screw and the coiled spring that wraps around the throttle body so I don't burn my throttle servo. Is this correct?
Any feedback would be apprecaited
Any feedback would be apprecaited
Last edited by Booyah6973; 10-27-2015 at 03:28 PM.
#2
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There is no need for the idle-stop screw. Some new engine carbs have them,some don't.
The return spring issue is something you will get many answers to. If you leave it on you will always have a positive return to idle or closed throttle in case your servo or linkage fails. I don't see it causing a good servo to fail. I have some engines with and some without the spring.
The return spring issue is something you will get many answers to. If you leave it on you will always have a positive return to idle or closed throttle in case your servo or linkage fails. I don't see it causing a good servo to fail. I have some engines with and some without the spring.
#3
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There is no need for the idle-stop screw. Some new engine carbs have them,some don't.
The return spring issue is something you will get many answers to. If you leave it on you will always have a positive return to idle or closed throttle in case your servo or linkage fails. I don't see it causing a good servo to fail. I have some engines with and some without the spring.
The return spring issue is something you will get many answers to. If you leave it on you will always have a positive return to idle or closed throttle in case your servo or linkage fails. I don't see it causing a good servo to fail. I have some engines with and some without the spring.
#4
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There have been several tests performed where it was shown the servo power and current required to pull against the throttle spring was barely above the idle current of the servo. In other words, the torque required from the servo to pull against the spring is extremely small. You can disconnect the spring if you wish but this is one of those cases where there are numerous reasons to keep the spring in place and few reasons to remove it.
Regarding the idle stop screw, remove it as in most cases it just gets in the way and serves no purpose on a rc gas engine. Many companies remove this screw as standard practice before shipping new engines.
Regarding the idle stop screw, remove it as in most cases it just gets in the way and serves no purpose on a rc gas engine. Many companies remove this screw as standard practice before shipping new engines.
#9
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Thanks a lot for everyone's reply. I will take the idle screw out and disconnect the spring but will leave it there. Thanks again for the supportive feedback !
happy landings ✌
happy landings ✌
#10
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I think you are making a mistake. If you leave the spring in place you can just pull the throttle open and let the spring close it. That way you can use just a small cable as you don't have to push it closed.
#12
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Closing the throttle on linkage failure is not the reason I leave the spring in place. With the spring in place and using a cable to pull it open results in a more precise throttle control. There is no slop in the linkage
#13
Capt,n
#15
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slop in the linkage of a pushrod-based linkage just as well as using a cable?
-Ed B.
Last edited by Flyfast1; 11-02-2015 at 03:24 PM.
#16
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For my throttle setup I'm using a 4-40 rod with 4-40 hd ball links on both ends. I also have a #4 washer atop the ball link under the head of the screw to make sure the link doesn't pop off lol. The alignment to the throttle arm is ok. I took the spring off completely as well as the idle screw and seems to be fine. Will test this weekend at the field to be sure. Thanks again for all the advice and thoughts
#17
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With the spring removed from the throttle shaft, we'll be looking forward to your posts in about a year wondering why the engine won't idle well any more ..... as the throttle plate wears away at the throttle bore near the shaft. That spring serves a purpose whether it is connected or not. Removal isn't good. Best of luck to you.