RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Congratulations on a great flight! The airplane looks great in the air, and the sound of the Roto 130 is AMAZING.
The aircraft flies in a scale manner.

Question: Are you able to HAND START the engine? IF the carburetor is adjusted correctly, a hand start should not be a problem.
Question: Are you using an auxiliary fuel pump?

The problem with Cyl. #1 loading up IS a carburetion problem. I do not know if you will be able to work it out with only a H and L speed needle adjustment, but I do believe it is possible with meticulous adjustment of both needles.

kwik

Okay.

I have made it possible to quickly flip the plane on its back, so I can adjust the needles with the cylinders pointing upwards.

It wont stop that easily then.

Yes, the engine hand-starts easily now. I am currently only choking the two aft cylinders on purpose.

So it behaves very kindly to me, when it comes to starting.

Perhaps I must buy a new carb to the front cylinder?

I do not use an aux. fuel-pump, no. Would it cure drowning the spark-plug?

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Good that you are not using an auxiliary fuel pump, as I believe it would only make the situation worse.
Without having the engine in my hands, my only recommendation is to focus on #1 cylinder carburetor adjustment.
Perhaps you can find the sweet spot that allows it to run correctly at all RPMs.

You MAY consider swapping carburetors... perhaps #1 and #3.
Do not change the needles and see if #1 and #3 behave differently.

Tony Hallo

I would also try swapping ignition modules if you get the same results from the carb swap. I see there are three separate ignition modules. My ignition module in my 85FS failed before the first flight of course by the time I finished the build it was out of warranty. Had CH Ignitions convert it to one of their RcExl units.

kwik

Im beginning to suspect my ignition modules too.

Their behaviour reminds me of some fake RcExcl modules a few years back. They worked for a few hours, and then the engine wouldnt run.

If you looked for a spark, there was one! But as soon as you mounted the plug back in the engine, there would be no spark because of the density of the air-fuel mixture at compression .... I couldnt believe that a simple sparkplug could be so devious, but it was. I bought a CH ignition, and the problem was over.

Now, on this engine, the front cylinter wouldnt run; When looking at the spark-plug, it was all wet and soaked in fuel. Obviously no spark. I was sure the problem was in the carb. But now all cylinders are like this. And the sparks are very weak when the plugs are dried up.

So, it seems the ignition modules are all ruined.Just like those fake RcExl units a few years back. And these units are expensive....

Tony Hallo

The stock module is not tolerant to temperatures above 140f.. When CH converted my engine he added a magnet wheel to the front of the crank and a hall sensor bracket. I wonder why he didn't use the stock sensor? I guess it is possible the timing is set in a different manner like ZDZ ignitions?

kwik

Im not so sure the stock sensors can be used on a CHIgnition module? What do you think?

It could actually be the sensors that are gone on mine.

A picture of the magnet wheel and the crank and a hall sensor bracket would be great.

Tony Hallo

What oil ratio are you running? When I bought my first one the manual recommended 30 to 1, I bought a second one last year and the manual recommended 40 to1 , the manual I downloaded for the 130 is now recommending 50 to 1.

kwik

I will order a CHIgnition set for mine.

Really?? 50;1 ?

I have used 1/ 40 which means 1.25 dl in 5 litres of gasoline.

1/ 50 means 1.0 dl in 5 litres of gasoline. Which means less oil in the spark-plugs. AND the same ratio I use for my 2-strokes.

Tony Hallo

Go to the Roto web site and check it out, 50 to 1 Motul 800 or Stihl Ultra. Funny thing I used Stihl Ultra for many years then switched the Red Line Racing oil because of what I read on the web. I decided to replace the o-rings on the left cylinder and it looked like this after a dozen flights. I'm was using Red Line Racing oil at 30 to 1, switching to Stihl at 50 to 1.

kwik

So, does the edge of the spark-plug stick a bit above the top there, or can the oil just fill the sparkplug directly?

How does that look to you? A bit too much carbon, isnt it? After only a dozen flights?

Ive allways used Mobil Racing oil 1. For 2 strokes.

1/40.

CH Ignitions

My Feedback: (11)

HI Tony, That is correct the timing is diffrent and had to do that to make it to work .
How is the engine running?
Adrian

Tony Hallo

Running great Adrian. It is swinging a 26"x 8" Falcon prop at 5700 RPM in the air. Plenty of power to drag around the 39 pound Champ.

kwik

Adrians ignition for the Roto 130 FSI is on its way. I cant't wait to get the spitfire up in the air again!

That sound.....

kwik

The CHIgnition from Adrian has arrived. Thank you Adrian for a quick response;



As you can see,there is only one (!) sensor (the black cable), with at least 3 magnets on the magnet-ring.

Tony Hallo

Looks like a very nice and complete kit. Looking forward to the final result.

kwik

In order to mount the magnetic ring, I will have to remove the propeller adapter.

But, before removing the propeller adapter, I had to remove the adapter extension first;
Its just 6 hex bolts;


There, just sliding it off;


Now I have to remove the center-bolt, using a big hex-key;


Here is the puller, hex-bolt and special made steel-plate I'm gonna use to pull the adapter off the axle;


Using all the force I have, almost, and letting it stay in this position;


Then I had to warm up the adapter using this propane burner; (Or perhaps its butane, or something else);


And then it just popped loose;

And here it is, off;

kwik

Now, when you see the propeller adapter, and the CH Ignition ring, you realise why it had to come off, in order to slide the magnetic ring onto the adapter;




But now I have the following problem;

I have to heat up the propeller adapter, in order to slide it back onto the axle effortlessly.

I have tested how much I need to heat it; Its 150 degrees Celsius (302F).

And then, luckily, I asked myself, does heat damage magnets? And according to this site, it does;

How Does Temperature Affect Neodymium Magnets | First4magnets.com

Now, I don't know what kind of magnets we have in this ring, so .... I have to think about this....

Its worth mentioning that I tried freeze spray on the axle, but didnt manage to push it back on.

Another possibility might be to press it on, using a bolt and a nut in the center, and try to tighten the nut, making the adapter being pressed on..... It sounds brutal. I wonder how other people have done this?

kwik

Okay, I managed to press it back on using a bolt and a nut. And a special tool to hold the adapter still while turning the nut....

It was quite an ordeal.

vickyz

Hi, im about to get one ROTO130FSI,
is the ignition provided by ROTO not good. Any reson i should changed to CH ignitions? Just curious

kwik

I believe that to me, it started with buying the 3-1 exhaust, and the thinner exit tube braking off, letting hot exhaust out inside the cowling,

The heating up of the aft of the engine probably damaged the sensors and or the magnets.

Maybe, I don't know.

The sensors and magnets are all inside the engine, you must take off the backplate to get to them.

RcExl / CHIgnition has a magnet-ring up front.

This engine is best in WWI planes, not WWII. In my opinion.

kwik

Turning the nut, pressing the adapter back onto the axle;



Still some distance left;


There it is, back in place;


Now I can start figuring out the positioning of the magnets ....

I've read the "user manual" a couple of times, and perhaps I understand the drawing, and yet, perhaps not.

kwik

If you study the last picture, you can see a stub of the 8mm bolt sticking out.

Yes, I didnt't stop in time; I used a bit more force at the end, and the 8 mm bolt snapped right off.

And now, the stub is there, rammed real hard into the bottom of the hole...... it won't budge.

kwik

So I tried a few different things, but no success.

Then I had an idea.
I managed to get a nut onto the bolt-stub. That was after using the dremel a bit, rounding off the edges of the bolt stub.

Then I welded the nut and the bolt stub together. That worked; Now I could unscrew the bolt;



Success;


Strange I could actually snap off an 8mm bolt like that; What kind of quality are the bolts nowadays, actually?

vickyz

Guys.. I need help. What is the suitable 2 blade prop size is suitable for 130fsi. I'm installing on PT-19 fairchild. Prefer SEP or fiala prop

And also what size to break in