Brinson disassembly
#1
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Brinson disassembly
I am having difficulty removing the prop flange from a 52 cc engine. Can anyone tell me if the prop flange is a "slip-on", keyed or "screw-on"?
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Yes, it is a Brison 3.2 CI which Brison indicates is a 52.2. CC. We are having problems with the ignition module, so my son purchased a new module and pickup. We need to remove the flange so the case can be cleaned up, then install the new pickup. Thank you again for your help.
#7
The prop flange is a tapered fit with a bronze compression sleeve between the crank and the prop flange and may also possible have some assembly loctite applied . Use a press plate behind the prop flange and support the flange in a vice or other suitable device . Apply heat to the prop flange to expand it then tap down on the crankshaft (protect the crank threads )using a heavy brass mallet. The prop flange will pop loose
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Thank you. The crank shaft is still in the crank case. In this configuration there is "minimal" clearance between the flang and crankcase. Are you suggesting that the propshaft can be slipped out the front of the crankcase? I assumed that the bearing and crank would prevent that. Thank you again for your help.
#9
No the crank does not need to be removed . Press plates have tapered edges that allow them to get in behind the prop flange . If you are unfamiliar with this tool it might be best to take it to a small engine shop .
#10
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The prop flange is a tapered fit with a bronze compression sleeve between the crank and the prop flange and may also possible have some assembly loctite applied . Use a press plate behind the prop flange and support the flange in a vice or other suitable device . Apply heat to the prop flange to expand it then tap down on the crankshaft (protect the crank threads )using a heavy brass mallet. The prop flange will pop loose
Regardless of whether the hub is straight wall bored or taper bored for a collet, the hub would still be removed and reinstalled in the same manor. The small hub can be a pain to remove though as there is little or no room for tooling to support the hub to press it out. I usually just press out the whole crank as an assembly .... through the hub and bearings.
Note: Sorry for the huge photos. Not sure why they uploaded so large.
Last edited by Truckracer; 02-23-2019 at 09:37 AM.
#11
Yeah Gary used both designs it seems .The one you posted ususlly give no trouble to remove . The ones using the split collet are the trouble makers but the process is still the same for either one .
#12
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This engine has the smaller flange and, as you say, there really isn't much to grab a hold of with a puller. I will keep you posted. Thank you for your help.
#13
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Gary was noted for changing things up a bit between production runs. I still like the engines though! Just curious, how did he maintain the hub in one location for timing with the split collet? I know that using a taper bore hub on a tapererd crank was common on many other engines, but the use of a collet was rare on gas engines, common on glo. Once a hub is seated on a tapered crank, it pretty much stays in place but a collet is prone to more a bit unless a lot of loctite was used.
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I've not had any experience with these engines. Have you been satisfied with their performance? My son and I are just sport flyers, i.e. flounder around the sky and hope to take the same plane home that we brought to the field. Thank you.
#15
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These were very good and powerful engines in their day and remain so today. As long as they are in good condition they will continue to run with the best of them well into the future. These engines used the very popular Sachs pistons and cylinders that were noted for being very high quality. Sadly, some of these parts are getting a bit hard to find these days as they are no longer produced.
The piston ported intake design (carb on side of cylinder) has sort of fallen out of favor in recent years as the reed valve, rear carb engines have become more popular. Both engine designs have their pros and cons and some fit certain applications better than others. As a loose rule, for a given size engine, the piston ported engine will tend to favor a bit less prop load than the reed valve engine as they like to rev to produce power. A reed valve engine may excel at producing torque at lower RPM.
Enjoy the engine!
The piston ported intake design (carb on side of cylinder) has sort of fallen out of favor in recent years as the reed valve, rear carb engines have become more popular. Both engine designs have their pros and cons and some fit certain applications better than others. As a loose rule, for a given size engine, the piston ported engine will tend to favor a bit less prop load than the reed valve engine as they like to rev to produce power. A reed valve engine may excel at producing torque at lower RPM.
Enjoy the engine!
#16
Some of Garry's cranks are not tapered but straight , still keyed though . The tapered collet would go on the crank first then the key then the tapered keyed hub or prop flange as it may be called. This design I have found mostly on the blue cased engines 3.2 and 6.4 twin . Now that I think about it I think there also a version where the collet is also keyed where the key goes in first then the collet slides over then the hub goes on . One of the versions the key actually protrudes from the face of the hub by about .020 ".
All of Garry Allisons (Brison) engines are excellent engines by all standards . The power to weight is very good , not the best but still very good . The quality is vastly superior to even DA or 3w . You will never , literally never wear one out . You may break it in a hard crash or damage it from no oil in the mix but I have never seen one wear out from even the highest level of usage .
All of Garry Allisons (Brison) engines are excellent engines by all standards . The power to weight is very good , not the best but still very good . The quality is vastly superior to even DA or 3w . You will never , literally never wear one out . You may break it in a hard crash or damage it from no oil in the mix but I have never seen one wear out from even the highest level of usage .
Last edited by CK1; 02-23-2019 at 11:46 AM.
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Thank you both. This engine looks like it is has been run very little. It looks new, really. It came to us with a problem with the ignition module, so that is where we are now. New module and pick-up sensor.
Thank you again.
Dave
Thank you again.
Dave
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It wasn't a C&H Ignition module. If those were the only two OEM installed, then it must have been the Cimmaster. My son ordered a new module and sensor from HK. So, that is where we are at, right now.
#20
Garry used C&H exclusively when he ran things . When Garry got out of the company and production moved to Canada Cimmaster ignitions were used and were prone to failure . The engines themselves remained essentially the same .
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That is good to know. Thank you. I am familiar with C&H products. I am converting a ST3000 to ignition/gas now. I am getting the feeling that if and when the Brison engine fails, replacement parts are not likely available. Is that true? I've not found a parts breakdown or source. I've tried to communicate with the distributor, via email, and not received any responses.
#22
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Some of Garry's cranks are not tapered but straight , still keyed though . The tapered collet would go on the crank first then the key then the tapered keyed hub or prop flange as it may be called. This design I have found mostly on the blue cased engines 3.2 and 6.4 twin . Now that I think about it I think there also a version where the collet is also keyed where the key goes in first then the collet slides over then the hub goes on . One of the versions the key actually protrudes from the face of the hub by about .020 ".
All of Garry Allisons (Brison) engines are excellent engines by all standards . The power to weight is very good , not the best but still very good . The quality is vastly superior to even DA or 3w . You will never , literally never wear one out . You may break it in a hard crash or damage it from no oil in the mix but I have never seen one wear out from even the highest level of usage .
All of Garry Allisons (Brison) engines are excellent engines by all standards . The power to weight is very good , not the best but still very good . The quality is vastly superior to even DA or 3w . You will never , literally never wear one out . You may break it in a hard crash or damage it from no oil in the mix but I have never seen one wear out from even the highest level of usage .
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This engine is anodized blue. It really looks quite nice. I don't believe that it is likely to be worked very hard. So, it should last my son a long time. Thank you
#24
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That is good to know. Thank you. I am familiar with C&H products. I am converting a ST3000 to ignition/gas now. I am getting the feeling that if and when the Brison engine fails, replacement parts are not likely available. Is that true? I've not found a parts breakdown or source. I've tried to communicate with the distributor, via email, and not received any responses.
Good luck with the ST conversion. I saw a few of those conversions some years back and they ran OK, not great. Then tended to be a bit of a shaker though they run smoother on gas than they did on glo.
#25
I would say you probably have had them but the keyed collet version where the collet can stay in the hub when you have pressed the crank out . If you didn't look closely into the hub you wouldn't notice it was in there