Is anyone doing this? If so, how is it working? It is going to be a major hassle to hook up the choke on a plane I am putting DA50R in.

Hey Splais
All of my gassers need to be chokeed if not each time they are started then at least for the first start of the day. Is the engine in a cowl?

You could just hook up a rod to the choke arm and let it hang out of the cowl though a small hole in the cowl. For my engines that are in a cowl I like using a servo just for the choke, but with a 50 size the extra weight is probable undesirable.

What plane is this engine in? Good luck with the DA, I have two DA 100 twins and they aer awesome engines!

Like Stomper stated you will probably need the choke for the first start of the day and if you don't want to use a servo to drive it you can tie a fishing line on the choke lever and drill tiny holes in the cowel making it a pull pull afair.

I always hook up my choke to a servo. I only have one gas engine that this has not been done and I will probably change that setup when I get chance.

It's going in a P-51. The problem is that the pitts invertedmuffler is in the way for a straight pull out the bottom of the cowl and I don't even want to try and think about how to mount any kind of servo inside the cowl nose. My MVVS gasser started fine without a choke. Just get it good and wet and after a couple of turns she would fire off.

Splais:

Back to the P-51 again, eh? Any ways, like everyone said so far, it's hard to get a gasser to fire for the first start without the choke. Although you MAYBE able to get away with it if you used something like the Sullivan Megatron Starter. That thing will just keep turning over the engine until it fires and starts. If you could, upload a picture of the situation here on RCU. I'll bet that a lot of us will come up with a answer on how you could install a manual or servo actuated arm for the choke. Even though you have limited space there's always a answer to the problem.

On my DA 50 the choke doesn't move freely at first. It has a tight spot in it. Once you get it moving it moves freely. I mounted a servo today for the choke and haven't finished mounting the nyrod connectors as of yet, but am concerned that the tight spot will be too much for the servo. Also thinking this is going to add to battery drain as well. Anyone else notice this and have any ideas on how to get it loosened up? I had read on an RCU thread that there is a ball type bearing in the mechanism that catches the choke and causes this. How do you remove, if possible, assuming this is true?

Roger:
It's a detent to keep the choke open on chainsaws, etc. Take the screw out of the choke plate. Face the carb down to prevent the ball and spring from falling into the carb. Pull the shaft out and the ball and spring should fall out. If not fish them out with a piece of wire. Reassemble.

Thanks flypaper, I too had notice that it takes a LOT if force to open and close the choke. I think that after I get my retracts installed I may be able to run a nyrod cable parallel to the throttle and mount a servo right next to the throttle servo that will open and close the choke.

That would work fine as you need something to hold the choke open now.