I have a BME 44 in a Dave Patrick Extra that is giving me problems. I only have a few flights on it and it was running great until recently. Now it will run just fine when it is cold, but when it gets warm won't run above idle. It idles just fine, but dies when you try to give it throttle. To me it almost acts like it is too lean, but why would it just do it all of a sudden? I've adjusted the carb, but nothing seems to help. I don't think that it is my fuel since I also have a BME50 and a G62 that runs just fine on the same fuel. I have to admit that I don't know a whole lot about gas engines, so where do I start? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hi Razorback58,

Have you changed out the plug yet, if not try that first.

KC

Let me make sure I understand. It will run FINE, full rpm runup when cold but will only idle when warm? What happens when you move the throttle when its warm? Does it POP, does it just quit, or does it sound like it loading up but just wont get and rpms?

Joe

I had the same problem with a moki. Never did figure out why. I'm thinking that maybe it is overheating?

Check the post about CH Syncro Spark tempture glitches. If yours is one effected units get it to CH for warranty repair. Check date on rear cover, Dates between 09-02 and 07-03. may need rework.
Units with AS or 001+ on the back it are ok.

I forgot to mention that my Moki was also installed in an Extra. maybe just a coincidence. Try running it without the cowl and see if the problem disappears. If it does then you may need to add some baffling.

When it's warm and you throttle it up above idle it acts like it's loading up and dies. I put maybe 20 or so flights on it without a problem. I'm going to put a kit in the carb tomorrow to se if that makes a difference. My next step will be the plug. After that I guess I may need to check the date on my ignition as tkg suggested. After that I'll be totally lost! Hopefully one of the above may straighten it out.

Samll possibilty of a hall sensor thats in the process of dying.

Hi Razorback58,

I would start with the plug, I had a BME 5.8 that I had the same exact problem with, and I sent back the ignition, put in a new carb kit, purchased a new hall sensor, jumped up and down alot, re-ducted my cowl, I was just convinced as all get out that it was a cooling problem due to the fact that it happened as soon as the engine got warm. (Sounds familiar doesn't it?) keep in mind all of this took about 2 months right in the middle of summer[:'(][:@][X(]. I had looked at the plugs they looked fine, not to mention that the engine ran fine at idle. Then one of the experts at the field said, "man it sure sounds like the plugs are about to go south." I told him, "no the plugs are fine look at them, plus it runs at Idle when it is cool???" He said, "go buy some plugs."

I asked the member of the club to watch my plane and I ran down to the Napa store and bought new plugs, took about 10 minutes to get there and back. Then I installed them another 10 minutes. Started right up and ran like nothing had ever happened, I spent 2 months and butt ton of money for no damn reason, well maybe my own stupidity.

Your plug is most likey fouled in the 3500 to 5000RPM range meaning that when the conditions in you engine are right, Temp, Pressure, and everything else going on in there. The plug due to fouling can't get enough spark out to keep then engine running.



Kurt Cook
Fromeco Scale Avionics LLC
www.fromeco.org

Thanks for the tip, Kurt! Due to the beautiful weekend that we had here, I haven't had the chance to work on it. I'll try that first before I go to the trouble of tearing down the carb. I'll let you know if that worked or not.

I am anxious to hear if this is the problem, sounds just like my engine when I had problems. Good luck, and if it isn't the plug you won't have to worry about doing a ton of work for nothing like I did as you will have already replaced the plug.


Kurt Cook