Well, seems like my computer doesn't want to do a proper search on RCU. I can't search for anything, only tediously dig through pages of threads searching for information on the DA 50.

I have read the whole DA 50 idle problem where its real sensitive. Seems real odd but whatever.

I want to know the different set-ups available with this motor. Exhaust, pitts in cowl or tuned K&S can? Whats the differences in weight and set-up. The recommened break-in prop and the best prop for power and thrust? What fuel mixtures are you using and the results?

Thanks, I hope this thread can help other potential DA 50 owners who have the same questions.

All it takes is a call to Dave Johnson at 520 722 0607..There is no better source of information than the person responsible for building them in the first place..
Information here can sometimes be not exactly right....

buddies DA50 is not sensative.. we will be firing up another new one this weekend, will see how it does.

I might as well thow a picture out for the thread

MMMM, I need to get one

I love my DA50 and am in my 11th gallon. No problems that I can not tune out. Ki ck as s engine for sure.
I agree with Ralph, it is so easy to just pick up the phone and call Dave. I have many times just to ask questions. This is an awesome engine from an awesome company. The word dummies should not be used in the same sentence as DA50, IMO. but I can think of some other brands that should!~)

Joe

You hit the nail right on the head!
Their is allot of good info on here but it isn't all correct.

Hey Shortman, are you thinking about buying a da 50 now?????

O Yea mine runs great. just a little tweaking and that was it.

Idel 2000 rpm

top 6800 rpm very fat

22-8 menz S

Slimline pitts muffler.

Yeah for my 87" Extreme Flight Yak 54 that I am on the waiting list for[8D]

lol lol lol

Stephen,

I agree with the comments about calling Dave at DA. Great people with great service. As Dave says, "we give you the engine and you pay for the service".

I have about 75 flights on mine in a G.P. Pitts. The engine just keeps getting stronger. I have not had one problem with mine. It flip starts easily and the only dead stick I had was caused by me when I hit the choke switch on my Tx when I was aiming for the smoke switch. Needless to say I have moved the switch so that won't happen again. Arrgh! Got all 20 lbs or so wet weight with fuel and smoke oil down in a tail wind landing with zero damage. Imagine that! I was so lucky. It dropped like a rock until just before going in and I then had just enough elevator control to pull out and land tail high and didn't nose over either. Whew!

DA recommends a Menz 22X8 prop for break-in. I have a Slimline Pitts style smoke muffler on mine. 32-1 oil to gas ratio for break-in until five gallons. I had to make one minor low end adjustment on mine out of the box and that was it. Haven't touched the needles since.

Great pictures Roger!

I hope to get mine soon, I am just going to use stock DA muffler and a Menz 24x8 for a prop

Thanks John!

You know, this thread began with something about DA for dummies. Well I feel like one after today. I had my second DS on the DA 50. Both were my fault. This engine runs very well if we stay out of the way. My first DS happened when I hit the choke switch on my Tx while aiming for the smoke switch. No problem with the DS landing and walked away unscathed. Needless to say I have moved the smoke switch away form the choke switch on the Tx. The second DS happened today. I had taken the cowling off to do routine maintenance to make sure all was tight and secure inside. When I put the cowling back on I must have accidentally moved the fuel line around so it made contact with the muffler. I couldn't see that this had happened when I put the cowling back on. It melted through causing an air leak that caused the DS. No way to make it back to the runway so I set up for an open field DS landing. I caught a clump of grass and flipped her over breaking the rudder free at the hinges. The damage was minor and could have been much worse. I was lucky a second time. I have yet to have a DS on this engine that was caused by anything other than pilot error.

Guys,

I am in Malaysia and I have just bought my DA50, gonna put it in a scratch built FF, ala stik. Its easy for you guys over at USA to pick up the phone and call Dave, but for ppl like me who live 1/2 way across the globe, calling dave for every bit of concerns regarding the engine is not economical. Hence, I rely on discussion board like this for info and take it with a pinch of salt. Local help is NOT good around here, with hardly 1 or 2 really knowledgable.

So, please carry on with the discussion of this GREAT engine. I made a decision to purchase the DA50 after reading about it here. I have similar concerns as shortman. So, please pass on the knowledge.

Thanks in advance to all who put their 2 cents worth.

regards
Marcus

I was going to ask why you chose a fueling valve in the cowling instead of a simple fuel dot & tee-fitting inside the fuse...

None of my business really, but with rear-mounted carb there's no need for any fuel tubing outside the fuse.

Good looking plane!

Your not going to use the 24-8 for break in?????

Scott - you are absolutely correct. Don't worry about whose business it is or isn't. We are all here to share and learn. Upon further inspection on the testing bench and after using fuel valves on nearly all of my planes without a failure, I have to say that this one failed in more ways than one. Worded another way, I should have listened to all the guys telling me about the potential for fuel valve failures.

I bypassed the melted fuel line and then discovered air still in the line. Yep, you guessed it, the fuel valve was leaking air as well. Maybe vibration in the cowling caused the seal to wear, or maybe I got some debris in it somehow, but it sure was leaking. I am going to change this out while doing the repair to the rudder and get all my fuel tubing well behind the carb. Whats interesting is that the engine was really running very well without any noticeable signs of an air leak in the valve. I would have thought that an air leak in the valve would have been more noticeable with the engine maybe running rough. It gave no warning at all. it just stopped running while in flight.

I was really lucky on this one. I bent the gear a bit, but this is easily fixed. The rudder appears to have taken the brunt end of the flip over. I was really surprised that the upper wing didn't have damage, but all appears to be OK,. The grass was fairly deep which cushioned the impact upon nosing over.

For me, this is kind of like the CA hinge topic in gassers. I had to learn the hard way on this one as well. That said, once learned I don't make the same mistake twice.

I've fired up one of two that I own. I'm a bit confused at the size of the warp around pitts muffler supplied with this engine (purchased at the same time as the engines from DA, and no, I don't know what brand) as seems to be about the same size as the one I use on my ZDZ 80???

Anyone care to comment? I was expecting a muffler a bit smaller.....

Well if you have the slimline muffler. it has been redesign a bit bigger cause the original one's were chocking the motor.

I have a slimline on my da50 and it looks huge too.

Yeap, I have the SL pitts too. I wish it was bigger but weighted less. Too bad it is 10 oz. !~(.

Joe

Repair update - I replaced the fuel valve with a fuel dot and now now chance of the fuel line making contact with the muffler, and I won't have an air leak any more because the fuel valve is history. I talked with Brian at DA and he acknowledged being aware of failures with fuel valves. It appears that vibration does wear the seal out prematurely creating an air leak in the valve. I had been very successful with these in glow engines, but didn't pick up on specific concerns in gassers. I had to remove the smoke system and the servo tray for the throttle and the choke servo to get the fuel tank out and replub the lines for a fuel dot. It was a full day job. I fixed the crumpled rudder and replaced the hinges with Robart hinge points using Gorilla Glue. Man that stuff sets very well. I did a test on an extra rudder I had laying around and after only an hour I couldn't pull the hinge point free even with a pair of pliers. I guess you guys with more experience already know all this, but maybe it will help someone else avoid the same mistake. No more fuel valves for me on gassers.