First of all, this is for a 1/6 FG marder. I cannot use fiber optic kill switches because I start the engine from the pull starter. I need some device(or custom system) that can turn of the engine from me flipping a switch on the TX. Anyone know of somthing? Thank you

I'm not sure what you're saying exactly. Why won't a fiber optic kill switch work? It doesn't depend on how you start an engine to work, it just kills the voltage to the ignition to work.

If you mean you don't want an electronic kill switch then you would have to use a servo and a mechanical switch or use the servo and choke to kill it.

How you rig it depends on how your system is put together, i.e. you'll have to figure out the means past the methods I told you about.

Thats my engine and how I start it. I thought a fiber optic won't work becasue I'm not using an electronic ignition system..

Looking at this I just can't figure out how it can be done:

I'm not familiar with that engine beyond what's on a webpage about it. How do you stop it right now?

I know it's based on a mag, and mags can be shut off by grounding them. I think if that's how you shut yours off I'd do it the simple way and get a retract servo and make up some linkage to a switch that would ground the P lead, it would be easy and cheaper than any other way of doing it.

Since this is in a car weight isn't as critical though I suspect you'd like it as light as possible so you could use a micro sized servo to trigger the switch. Get a leaf type switch so that all you have to do is push the leaf down or let go and it comes up. Like a micro switch but it uses a leaf which gives you more room to depress it without binding the servo.

Then just adjust the linkages so the servo isn't binding at the on/off position and now you have a cheap ignition kill switch.

Clear as mud?

Take a look at www.rcatsystems.com........RC100@ $24.95..............

The engine you have is magneto ign. The diagram you show is batt. ign. Two different systems altogether. Two ways to shut it off. Back out the idle speed screw and and use idle trim to shut the butterfly completely. If the butterfly has a small hole in it, solder it over. Check out the kill switch on the motor. you will find a wire going to it, then to ground. Put a slide switch in place of it, operated with a servo and nyrod pushrod. Keep the switch as far from the radio as practical to avoid radio interference. If you have a computer radio, you can use a switch to close the throttle completely without changing throttle trim. Hope this helps.

Sorry,.....try www.rcatsystems.com I've contacted them for my Zenoah engines and they claim the RC100 will kill the engine from the TX...............

The rc cat system looks like an interesting idea but I heard it may give me some radio interference?


Edit: I found this on tower: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJ776&P=7]

I think If I just get a micro servo I'll be set.


Btw: The standard way to kill that engine is the kill button it comes with(see pic).


Thanks!

That tower switch will work, but you'll need to open up the engine case and bypass or tie into that switch.

You could also just rig a servo to hit that existing kill switch with a servo arm. From your pic, there may be room to just glue the servo directly to the case in the proper position.

Another option is a servo on the choke, as mentioned earlier.

This is how the old switch wired in: I figured it would just be the same way with the tower switch.



I just ordered it and some other stuff from tower

Yep, it will wire the same way. You'll still need a servo to activate it remotely, but this will also give you a switch you can mount on the outside of the model. Always a good thing to have.

The RC-100 will work fine for your application. Many people are using the switch and we have not heard of any problems relating to interference. Contrary to those who don't know the system and spread false information, it does not provide a direct link to your receiver and the electronics are isolated from the switch.

Please see Jim Oddino's column in RCM, Sept 2004 for his explanation of the system.

Also see the following link for an explantion on EMI as relating to the switch: http://www.rcatsystems.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=4

I use the RCAT on my 40% and it's flawless...