MVVS 1.6 Break-in
#2
Oil:
Use the correct oil. Get an oil for AIR COOLED 2-stroke engines. DO NOT use outboard oil.
DO NOT use a synthetic oil for breakin. Use a real oil from melted and rotted dinosaurs.
Mix it according to the instructions on the OIL container. Something like 32:1 or 40:1 should work, but follow the instructions on the oil container to be safe.
Run a tank or two on the bench or on the firewall before you fly it.
Adjust the needles for good transition and set the high needle just about 1/8 turn rich.
Fly the plane for about 5 gallons and then switch to a synthetic oil if you want to.
Use the correct oil. Get an oil for AIR COOLED 2-stroke engines. DO NOT use outboard oil.
DO NOT use a synthetic oil for breakin. Use a real oil from melted and rotted dinosaurs.
Mix it according to the instructions on the OIL container. Something like 32:1 or 40:1 should work, but follow the instructions on the oil container to be safe.
Run a tank or two on the bench or on the firewall before you fly it.
Adjust the needles for good transition and set the high needle just about 1/8 turn rich.
Fly the plane for about 5 gallons and then switch to a synthetic oil if you want to.
#4
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From: Salmon ArmBritish Columbia, CANADA
The factory reccomends a high quality synthetic 2 stroke oil right from the start. At first I was sceptical about this practice, but so far it seems to be working great!
#5
usually a synthetic is not recommended (for the brake-in) because it is so much slicker compared to a petroleum based oil, so the brake-in will take longer with a synthetic ,,,
but I think the recommendation to use synthetic has more to do with that the MVVS cylinders are not crosshatched.
Jim
but I think the recommendation to use synthetic has more to do with that the MVVS cylinders are not crosshatched.
Jim
#6
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From: Alkhobar, SAUDI ARABIA
Thats what I thought, Pe Revies on another forums mentioned somthing as " not using any oil but synthetic"??!?
Thanks
Moe
Thanks
Moe
#7
the first 20oz I ran through my MVVS 35 was 20:1 "synthetic with castor added" the second 20oz was 24:1 "synthetic only", the next 2 galls will be 30:1, then gallon 3 & 4 & 5 will be 36:1, then for the next 5 or 6 gallons I will run 40:1, then got to 50:1,,,
for it's first run, I have always believed in running a ringed gasoline 2 stroke with a slobbering rich fuel/oil ratio.
Jim
for it's first run, I have always believed in running a ringed gasoline 2 stroke with a slobbering rich fuel/oil ratio.
Jim
#8
I have been using Mobil 1 32-1-right from first flip -on my newer engines and they have broken in and run perfectly -no sagging etc.
The pistons and sleeves are bright and shiny -even on the piston tops -
The pistons and sleeves are bright and shiny -even on the piston tops -
#10
things have changed sense my last reply, see the link,,, I will run my Bell Ray H1R at a ratio at 32:1 untill my quart is gone, then I will buy Bell Ray's MC1 and burn a ratio of 50:1.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/"OK,_so_I_just_called_Bell_Ray"/m_2111180/tm.htm
Jim
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/"OK,_so_I_just_called_Bell_Ray"/m_2111180/tm.htm
Jim
#11
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From: Alkhobar, SAUDI ARABIA
I think I'm going to stick to the factory's recommendation.... 32:1 Mobile 1
The irony is that I live in the "Oil country" and I had to import the Mobile 1 ![:'(]
Thank you all for your input
Moe
The irony is that I live in the "Oil country" and I had to import the Mobile 1 ![:'(]
Thank you all for your input

Moe
#15

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I have broke in two 1.6's, I started off with Pennzoil at 40:1, I think that what was recommended back then, I am now running Amsoil at 50:1 more info at [link]http://www.sportrc.com/smallgassers.html[/link]
these are tight engines, lean them out very gradually over a few gallon of fuel.
cheers - ken
these are tight engines, lean them out very gradually over a few gallon of fuel.
cheers - ken
#16
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From: Alkhobar, SAUDI ARABIA
Good news, found the Mobile 1 T2 in Dubai "UAE", very cheap!!
I'm use to Glow engines, how would i tell if it's rich/lean? is it just like glow engines ( sound & smoke) ???
Thanks
Moe
I'm use to Glow engines, how would i tell if it's rich/lean? is it just like glow engines ( sound & smoke) ???
Thanks
Moe
#17
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From: Salmon ArmBritish Columbia, CANADA
To start the engine for the first time, turn both mixture screws in untill they bottom out, then back them both out 2 full turns. Connect you fuel line/battery etc. Leaving the ingnition OFF, close the choke with your thumb and rotate the prop counter-clockwise. If you have clear fuel tubing, you should see gas being drawn up from your fuel tank. Keep rotating the prip until the gas reaches the carb. All the chambers and passages inside the carb are empty, so keep turning the prop untill you feel gas on your thumb.
Once the engine is primed you will hear a hiss from the carb as you rotate the prop, that is usually how I tell when it is ready to start. Remove your thumb from the carb, open the throttle about 1/4, turn on the ignition and give the prop a healthy counter-clockwise flip (wear a heavy glove!). I bet it fires within the first 5 flips! If it doesn't re-prime until the carb is wet again.
Once the engine is running, reduce your throttle to a reasonable idle. Now screw the "L" needle in slowly, RPM will rise, when you reach the max RPM, tun the "L" needle back one-quarter turn, then re-adjust the idle as necessary.
To get the high-speed needle in the ball-park, move the throttle up to 3/4 or so, the engine will run rough as you will be ridiculously rich at this point. Turn the "H" needle in until things smooth out. Reduce your throttle to anout 1/3 and you should be good for break-in. Run it this way for a couple of tanks of fuel, with short bursts of full throttle to keep it from loading up, thenyou should be ready to lean out the top end a little bit more and go flying.
Once you get this engine dialed in, resist the urge to fiddle!
Once the engine is primed you will hear a hiss from the carb as you rotate the prop, that is usually how I tell when it is ready to start. Remove your thumb from the carb, open the throttle about 1/4, turn on the ignition and give the prop a healthy counter-clockwise flip (wear a heavy glove!). I bet it fires within the first 5 flips! If it doesn't re-prime until the carb is wet again.
Once the engine is running, reduce your throttle to a reasonable idle. Now screw the "L" needle in slowly, RPM will rise, when you reach the max RPM, tun the "L" needle back one-quarter turn, then re-adjust the idle as necessary.
To get the high-speed needle in the ball-park, move the throttle up to 3/4 or so, the engine will run rough as you will be ridiculously rich at this point. Turn the "H" needle in until things smooth out. Reduce your throttle to anout 1/3 and you should be good for break-in. Run it this way for a couple of tanks of fuel, with short bursts of full throttle to keep it from loading up, thenyou should be ready to lean out the top end a little bit more and go flying.
Once you get this engine dialed in, resist the urge to fiddle!
#18
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From: Alkhobar, SAUDI ARABIA
What about the fuel tank? Engine's manual doesn't say anything about the set-up.
On Glow fuel engines i use 3 tubes; 1 for the Carb. 1 for the exhasut. and 1 for the fueling "which is closed after fueling", is it the same with the Gas engines?
Thanks
Moe
On Glow fuel engines i use 3 tubes; 1 for the Carb. 1 for the exhasut. and 1 for the fueling "which is closed after fueling", is it the same with the Gas engines?
Thanks
Moe
#19
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From: Salmon ArmBritish Columbia, CANADA
Use a fuel tank with a gasoline proof stopper and tygon fuel line, you can rig it with three lines, clunk line to the carb, the vent line just vents the tank to atmosphere and a fueling line that you can close or plug after fueling. You should plug the vent line when transporting the airplane to avoid spillage.
#20
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From: Alkhobar, SAUDI ARABIA
OK, everything went well, thanks for your input every one. " got started from the first flip, what an engine!! "
Came to the engine installation point and i reached to a dead end!!
On the manual of my SU31 made by black horse models http://www.americanpioneerhobbies.com/sukhoi120.html, they've installed an OS 160 at a 45 degrees angel. The Q. is,
could I install my MVVS 1.6 upright or inverted instead, since i have a pitts type muffler "insinde the cowl"?
Appreciate the input.
Regards
Moe
Came to the engine installation point and i reached to a dead end!!
On the manual of my SU31 made by black horse models http://www.americanpioneerhobbies.com/sukhoi120.html, they've installed an OS 160 at a 45 degrees angel. The Q. is,
could I install my MVVS 1.6 upright or inverted instead, since i have a pitts type muffler "insinde the cowl"?
Appreciate the input.
Regards
Moe



