My DP330L is just about done except for the installation of the choke. Can you tell me how you hooked up the choke on your taurus 2.6.

Thanks,
Santi

Mine sticks out of the cowl so no need for linkages, just use my finger to open and close.

Doug

I connected a little tab to the choke arm and ran a rod down under the cowl.

I also connected a little tab to extend the choke lever. I just stick a long hex wrench in through the cooling slot and turn it on and off.

For what it's worth. I have found the best way to start the Taurus is to leave the ignition off, choke on, and almost full throttle. Flip the prop over until the engine sounds "wet." Then open the choke, reduce the throttle to idle, turn on the ignition and flip the prop. It usually only takes a couple of flips to get it running.

I remove the funky little metal arm and install a nylon nose gear steering arm on the shaft. [something like you'd see on a trainer with tricycle gear] I then proceed to connect it with a nyrod type control rod and sleeve and send it to a small servo for choke action via the TX... You could of course simply drop down a small length of the nyrod tube so that penetrates a small hole in the cowl and manually operate it.

I'd recommend against using this starting procedure. Simply because if you forget to close the throttle you're in a world of hurt. This is very dangerous IMO...

In any event opening the carb up to full throttle should make little to no difference. Think about this, the choke is closed. This is a diaphragm pump vacuum actuated carb. Opening the throttle butterfly does nothing... Unless the engine is running.

I have six Taurus Engines, they like nearly all the rest use a Walboro carb. The procedure for starting is generally the same across the board. I use the same method of starting these little gasser's as I do on my engines including the 100 and 150cc engine's.

Try this method:

Activate choke, switch on the ignition, flip the prop until the engine pop's sputter's and dies, [if you have the servo activated choke you can turn it off if your quick enough and the engine is running] Turn off the ignition, deactivate the choke, turn the ignition on and flip the prop until the engine fires. Generally if all things are right the engine will require about 3-6 attempts to sputter with choke on and about the same to fire the engine with the choke off.

I have to agree with you about the possibility of forgetting to close the throttle. I had just got back from flying when I made that post and while I was staring my engine I was thinking about that very same issue. I do use a holddown that easily holds my engine at full throttle, but I am concerned. I've watched a modeler start a giant scale at full throttle and get all his fingers chopped off because he did not have a hold down. The fingers couldn't be reattached because they looked like sliced salami!!

On the other hand starting the engine by your method, which I have used for the last two years, is also a problem. After a few flips it is easy to get complacent and not be careful about flipping over the engine, and when it does catch, you could have some very sore fingers. I saw that happen this week when one of the guys in my club didn't expect his engine to start and he left his hand in the prop arc. No serious harm done. Just some bruised nuckles.

No matter what method we use to start our big engines. We must be very careful.