Skyking-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Help! I picked this up at a swap meet. It looks close to a Brison 3.2 but the pickup and the 6 bolt prop (1-1/8" spacing) hub do not look like Brisons. It has 44ZN18 on the cylinder base. It weighs 3.21 pounds with a 22x10 Dynathrust prop and Bennett muffler. It spins the prop at 7300 on the test stand.
I would like to convert it to a 3/8-24 single bolt prop set up. Is there anything (tips, hints, do not do's) I need to know before making the adapter?
Thanks in advance to all
Terry

DERF-54

My Feedback: (48)

That is a Sachs 3.2 with a ch ign.
Sachs is the same cylinder as brison
Hope this helps
Derf

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Terry, I think this was probably the much older A&M 3.2. Here is a photo of the Brison 3.2.

Ken

Skyking-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks guys for the info, it seems to start easy (after I rebult the carb) and runs pretty good.
Does anyone have any idea about the single prop bolt conversion? I hope to have some time this weekend to get started on it.

Terry

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Get a piece of 1 1/2 diameter aluminum, 2024 if you can..
turn a .749 diameter 3/4 inch long on the end..Cut off so about 1/8 inch of the 1 1/2 diameter is left...Drill and tap for a 3/8 grade 8 bolt...Drill the 6 holes for mounting with flathead allens..
countersink the holes so the mounting screws are flush...Plug the .749 end into the hub and put the flatheads in with some Loctite...Coordinates for the 6 holes are + and - .562, + & - .281, and + & - .487

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Yep, A&M 3.2. I believe Brison and C&H both have single bolt adapters. They used to.

Skyking-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Ralph,
That should make it real easy to do


Merry Christmas

Terry

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

I think C&H still has some of the other style, made from steel with a 3/8 stud and nut....Fits just about 1/8 down into the hub......[8D]

excaliber

Skyking, I'd bet its a Brison from the looks of the shiny casea nd it is a 3.2. I think you have a Hanger 9 Cap 231ex the the engine is in. I have a 2.6 in mine.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

I don't think Brison ever made a hall sensor holder like that...A&M did.....If the end of the crank is flush with no hole it's an A&M for sure....Brison never made anything that crude, look at the black bell crank, they didn't even cut off the excess...Chances are it's probably timed with too much advance also....

excaliber

Ralph, I just looked at my Brison 3.2 that is brand new(never run) about 4 years old. And it looks exactly like the one in the original plane picture except it has a shiny aluminum bell crank,sensor mounted the same way etc.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Brison copied A&M, as did Fox...The shine came later....The bell crank in the original picture is A&M..Early A&M engines used Sachs cranks, then changed..That's when the decline started...That bell crank system was changed by Brison to the shiny aluminum one they use now..
Brison now guarantees their cranks for 5 years...Whatever they did seems to work....
Have you checked the timing ? That long bell crank will move the ring pretty far from idle to wide open..
If that color on the top of the cylinder is paint it's definitely an A&M..

excaliber

RCIGN1, my cylinder is bead blasted not painted. Anyone can guarranty a crank. what does it mean. if it gets twisted they will straighten it. there is a caveat in the policy.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Didn't say the whole cylinder was painted, just the small spot behing the spark plug ...A&M had some kind of code using two different colors in a circle about 1" diameter...Never saw a bead blasted A&M cylinder, just the coarse blasting on the Brison...Who knows why so coarse, they look better when blasted with fine glass beads...
I don't think the guarantee refers to crash related bent or twisted shafts...I think they're trying to reassure buyers who remember A&M's bad cranks that theirs are better...The guarantee started out at less than 5 years..
The Brison in the picture has a completely different crankcase and sensor..The A&M bolts together from the front and is split vertically in the middle....I haven't seen a Brison apart, but I suspect the A&M they copied was the 3.2MKII with the cantilever crank, not the A&M with the bad copy of the Sachs crank and bad big end rod bearing....I can take a picture of one of the A&M twins with their homemade crank, it's up in the attic...Worst twin crank I ever saw...
all the pieces were machined too loose on the press fit so someone drilled through all the webs and pressed in pins to try to keep it from twisting...In addition the cylinders were both 2.4s but from two different styles, one rounded fins and one squared off...No wonder they went out of business......

excaliber

RCIGN1 Right now I'll also have to get the one I have out to get a picture and forward it to this forum just for info purposes. I'll have to know how to post the shot though.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

I think we made a mountain out of a molehill...As long as it runs good, who cares
I would still check the timing on the original engine.....[8D]

excaliber

RCign1 I agree, seems this happens to often
I wish him well.

Skyking-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for all the info, I will put the degree wheel on it (left over from the Hot Rod Days) and check the timing. Full advance should be 28 to 30 degrees?? Is the black bell crank something I need to change? It seems strong enough. I did not get any time last weekend to make the prop adapter so I will try to get it done this week.
Thanks again for the info

Terry

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

I have had a couple of the old A&Ms with the black belcrank. It works (sort of), just needs a little tinkering to get the idle and full throttle timing synchronized. Here is a link to the C&H ignition page with timing instructions: http://www.ch-ignitions.com/CHinst.html
Make sure you keep the plug grounded and hooked to the lead when the ignition is powered up. Don't let the spark jump to open "space".
If it has the flat surface on the front of the crank that RCIGN1 noted, it is a crank that was built by A&M. Don't let it get a prop strike as they bend very easy. If there is a dimple in the end of the crank for a machine center, then it is a reworked Sachs crank, & much stronger.
It's strong engine, and if you get set-up right, it's a sweety.