cygnet

My Feedback: (33)

I'm getting ready to bench run my new 110, but a small problem poped up. I want to run a MSC 26x10 the prop is 1 1/8 thick and the 8mm crank shaft is too short. Has anyone else had this problem, if I were to use a spinner back plate the nut would not even go on.

Icebird

You are aware that the bolt is merely a stud aren't you????

Jim

cygnet

My Feedback: (33)

Yes I know but the manual says to screw it in all the way (if the stud is not screwed-in far enough faillure can occur) how far are you leaving your's out, the MSC is a thick prop!

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Two ways to go...Buy a hex bolt long enough and tap the end for the spinner bolt, or just buy a piece of all thread and cut to length...If you buy a bolt be sure it's grade 8, a normal grade 5 will come apart if tapped for a spinner bolt...Metric grade 8 equivalent will have 12.9 on the head..How do I know ? I chased a Tru Turn spinner across El Mirage dry lake when the head came off a grade 5 bolt that was tapped 10-32 for the spinner bolt..
Wonder why he doesn't use a 3/8-24 ? Way stronger and should be easier to find....

wingburner

My Feedback: (17)

cygnet,I also have a BME 110X and was wondering about that.My instuctions only say to make sure it is threaded into the hub far enough for a good attachment.I would assume if it was engaged a 1/2" or more it would provide adequate strength.One would have to buy a different length bolt for every prop if he went that way.Think of it this way,if they provided a bolt for a prop shaft you would think nothing of it if one prop was 1 1/2" and the other was 1" thick as long as the bolt threaded in a reasonable distance.That's my read on it.I think if threads a good distance we have nothing to worry about.Maybe a guy should phone Keith and ask but I think it's plenty long enough to hold most props and backplates.

Jack

Crash90

My Feedback: (17)

yeah guys, no biggie. Just screw it out far enough to get the washer and nut on.

wingburner

My Feedback: (17)

I agree crash,also cygnet as you probably know in the one end of the stud there is an allen wrench cutout so you can hold it where you want as you're tightening the nut.I'm sure this arrangement is good,I've never heard of any problems with it.By the way what are you installing it in.

Jack

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

Drop Keith an e-mail, he might have some longer studs still left, or you can do what Ralph suggested. Try a local machine shop. The stud that came with mine was way to short for my set up. I e-mailed Keith and I had the correct one in the mail, I guess some went out with shorties.

Oh, by the way you do not have to screw the stud in all the way. In the manual it will give you a approx. distance.

Crash90

My Feedback: (17)

Can you tell us what the proper length is so we know if we got the right one?

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

I will have to check, but I believe it was about 1/2" longer. Like I said you don't need to screw the stud in all the way I "think" only about 7/16, but don't quote me. I am using a true-turn spinner.

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

I wnet to Fastenal and got a 1 meter length of threaded rod. Grade 8.8.
I cut it to the proper length and put flats on one end to put a cresent wrench on.
It works great and there is enough to put a spinner adapter nut on if I want.

Crash90

My Feedback: (17)

wanna sell a 6" piece?

cygnet

My Feedback: (33)

Yep that's what I did to day I bought a 1 meter lenght of all thread grade 10 I then cut the length I needed I double nutted it and put the prop on and tightened it down. Now it is bottomed out and I can use a 8x1.25 prop nut for the spinner(have lots of them from my pattern days). It only makes sense to put the shaft in untill it bottoms out that way there is no room for error.

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

Before I purchased my all thread. I looked at Grade 8.8, Grade 10 and Stainless.
WHile stainless seems to do better with aluminum, the Grade 8.8 seem better than Grade 10. I can't remember now why. I think the tensile strength of 8.8 was not as good but 10 was more brittle. Stainless and Grade 8.8 are about even.

Crash90

My Feedback: (17)

Where can I get this stuff?

cygnet

My Feedback: (33)

Got mine at a bolt supply house but I bet Home Depot would have it

Crash90

My Feedback: (17)

Can you tell me the thread size? Also, how do I know if its 5 or 8.8 or 10?

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

I got mine from Fastenal.
They have retail outlets all over the Atlanta area.
You can also purchase it online.

I don't know anyway to look at it and tell the difference. I will say that if you put the three in a vice, you will see a BIG difference between the 5 and 8.8

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Don't even get stainless, it's not as strong... Metric grade 12.9 is equivalent to US grade 8..My book also shows metric 10.9 to be the same as grade 8...

cygnet

My Feedback: (33)

I got the 10.9 but it was taged, they had both grades, the counter guy new which one was the strongest so that's what I got. As RCIGN 1 says DON'T get the stainless it is very week