Starting a G-62
#26
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RE: Starting a G-62
I've always started my G-62 by hand, but you must choke it just enough, not to much! here is what I do:
1) place the prop between 1 and 2 o'clock, but the compression should start between 12 and 1 o'clock
2) Close the choke, go to full throttle
3) Hit the prop HARD, with a large swing, the prop must reach a high speed when passing the sensor
4) do this untill the engine makes an attempt to start and then stops because the choke is closed (it will not get any high RPM)
5)open choke, close throttle to idle speed
6) put the prop in position, hit it hard, just as you did when choking it.
7) the engine will start
If you soak it, it will backfire! When people say their carb is dripping fuel, mostly it is because it is positioned in a down-direction, so gravity make the fuel streem out of it, instead of in the engine.
Use the thickest glove you can find, use your handpalm to hit the prop, not your fingers. The first times it can be a bit painfull, but after you get the trick, it is easy.
1) place the prop between 1 and 2 o'clock, but the compression should start between 12 and 1 o'clock
2) Close the choke, go to full throttle
3) Hit the prop HARD, with a large swing, the prop must reach a high speed when passing the sensor
4) do this untill the engine makes an attempt to start and then stops because the choke is closed (it will not get any high RPM)
5)open choke, close throttle to idle speed
6) put the prop in position, hit it hard, just as you did when choking it.
7) the engine will start
If you soak it, it will backfire! When people say their carb is dripping fuel, mostly it is because it is positioned in a down-direction, so gravity make the fuel streem out of it, instead of in the engine.
Use the thickest glove you can find, use your handpalm to hit the prop, not your fingers. The first times it can be a bit painfull, but after you get the trick, it is easy.
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RE: Starting a G-62
Wack the prop, slap the prop, use a double heavy duty padded glove and you will get used to the pain soon......geeze. How about use a regular glove and two fingers???
CH Jump Start.....
CH Jump Start.....
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RE: Starting a G-62
you hurt your fingers when you don't hit the prop properly. It doesn't hurt if you use your hand palm instead of your fingers...If the engine would backfire, it would break all your fingers, if it hits your hand, it just will be a lot of pain [:-]
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RE: Starting a G-62
RCIGN,
I posted this earlier in this thread, do you have any comments?
Chuck
I'm having one problem yet with getting the engine (G62) set up the way I would like it. The engine doesn't want to quit running with the butterfly closed. It will idle down around 1200 rpm, but won't quite die. The linkage is not binding and the idle screw has been removed. It transitions good from idle to full speed, and pulls about 7000rpm with a cheapo Zinger 22-8 propeller. Any suggestions, or is this normal? Should I loosen the screw on the butterfly and reposition it?
I posted this earlier in this thread, do you have any comments?
Chuck
I'm having one problem yet with getting the engine (G62) set up the way I would like it. The engine doesn't want to quit running with the butterfly closed. It will idle down around 1200 rpm, but won't quite die. The linkage is not binding and the idle screw has been removed. It transitions good from idle to full speed, and pulls about 7000rpm with a cheapo Zinger 22-8 propeller. Any suggestions, or is this normal? Should I loosen the screw on the butterfly and reposition it?
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RE: Starting a G-62
Take off the carb and hold it up to the sunlight. You should see no leaks, any place you see light is an air leak that will keep the engine running.
If need be loosen the butterfly screw a bit and center the butterfly tighten the screw.. DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREW.
If need be loosen the butterfly screw a bit and center the butterfly tighten the screw.. DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREW.
#34
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RE: Starting a G-62
ALWAYS wear a glove, ya never know.
ORIGINAL: Big_Bird
Terry, it is very hard to convince the masses what a terrific device the CH Jump Start is. You are right on, two fingers and no glove. Couldn't be easier.
Ken
Terry, it is very hard to convince the masses what a terrific device the CH Jump Start is. You are right on, two fingers and no glove. Couldn't be easier.
Ken
#35
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RE: Starting a G-62
You guys can take a look at www.toni-clark.com they have a easystartsytem to th g62. It is superb, just flipping with your fingertips and it starts!
#36
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RE: Starting a G-62
I have been making my easy start system since 1987 and the ignition has been INSIDE the cup mount for the entire time...Nice to know someone else copied my idea....
#37
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RE: Starting a G-62
And here are a couple of pictures of Ralph's (RGIGN1) engine conversion. I like it and at 4lbs.4oz. it's not bad for an old industrial engine. In fact I think it will weigh the same as a DA 50 on cans when all is said and done.
#39
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RE: Starting a G-62
I pulled off the carb and can see a fair amount of light around it. With the srew loose, it still won't move enough to allow the butterfly to shut off more light. It looks like if the screw hole in the butterfly was enlarged slightly, the butterfly would close much more. I feel it is quite important to be able to shut down the engine with the servo, so feel the need to make this minor tweak.
I bought the engine used with very low useage, a couple of gallons I was told. The engine looks like new, starts easily by hand and runs strong. The shaft for the butterfly does not have any slop in it, fits good.
Any comments?
Chuck
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I wrote earlier:
I'm having one problem yet with getting the engine (G62) set up the way I would like it. The engine doesn't want to quit running with the butterfly closed. It will idle down around 1200 rpm, but won't quite die. The linkage is not binding and the idle screw has been removed. It transitions good from idle to full speed, and pulls about 7000rpm with a cheapo Zinger 22-8 propeller. Any suggestions, or is this normal? Should I loosen the screw on the butterfly and reposition it?
I bought the engine used with very low useage, a couple of gallons I was told. The engine looks like new, starts easily by hand and runs strong. The shaft for the butterfly does not have any slop in it, fits good.
Any comments?
Chuck
************************************************** ************************************************** *************8
ORIGINAL: tkg
Take off the carb and hold it up to the sunlight. You should see no leaks, any place you see light is an air leak that will keep the engine running.
If need be loosen the butterfly screw a bit and center the butterfly tighten the screw.. DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREW.
Take off the carb and hold it up to the sunlight. You should see no leaks, any place you see light is an air leak that will keep the engine running.
If need be loosen the butterfly screw a bit and center the butterfly tighten the screw.. DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREW.
I wrote earlier:
I'm having one problem yet with getting the engine (G62) set up the way I would like it. The engine doesn't want to quit running with the butterfly closed. It will idle down around 1200 rpm, but won't quite die. The linkage is not binding and the idle screw has been removed. It transitions good from idle to full speed, and pulls about 7000rpm with a cheapo Zinger 22-8 propeller. Any suggestions, or is this normal? Should I loosen the screw on the butterfly and reposition it?
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RE: Starting a G-62
If the carb thrtottle return spring has been removed the carb shaft can vibrate back and forth and wear the sides of the plate and also the sides of the carb itself..A leak there will keep the engine from shutting off...Only fix if the carb body is worn is a new carb....
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RE: Starting a G-62
Hahaha...Huggins said "...flip it like your mad at it! Don't be timid, let it know who's the boss." A very good and lifelike discription.
By the way, eyerybody can share my experience...
1. In order to reduce the kickbacks of prop and easy starting, it is necessary to get a more wet priming.
2. The normal hand-starting procedure for Zenoah engine can be successful in summer. But in winter, especially when high humidity, to heat the engine before priming is helpful. For doing this, the micro gas torch is workable.
By the way, eyerybody can share my experience...
1. In order to reduce the kickbacks of prop and easy starting, it is necessary to get a more wet priming.
2. The normal hand-starting procedure for Zenoah engine can be successful in summer. But in winter, especially when high humidity, to heat the engine before priming is helpful. For doing this, the micro gas torch is workable.
#42
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RE: Starting a G-62
I have had a G-62 for only two years now, and the first time I ever started it I flipped it by hand, no glove or stick or anything. If you choke it properly, as per the instructions, you should have no problem with it. Something else I learned from someone is to keep your fingers on one side of the prop when flipping it so if it backfires it doesn't come back to smack you. What I mean is don't grab the prop to flip it, just press your fingers against the surface to flip it over.
Thats a great engine by the way!
Enjoy.
Thats a great engine by the way!
Enjoy.
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RE: Starting a G-62
This has been a very good thread , myself I have 2 G62's set up with spring starters, both engine start very easy ,by hand or with the starters .everything ive seen here about being wet and so on the prop position is right on the money .but I do have one that wont die ,and im not sure if its the linkage bind or the butterfly.with the ignition cut off switch its never really been a prob.it idles low enough so not to pull the plane and allows good landings . What I would like to know if there is some one that has done some hop up things to the 62's to get more speed and power out of them.Amsoil helps but ??? I dont want to go to the point of stuffing the bottom end or anything ,just need a little bit more
#44
RE: Starting a G-62
If you want more HP out of it--then call RCIGN1 and ask him what he can do too a G-62. I'll bet he knows all kinds of ways to boost them up.
I've been told that the cylinder jug for the Redmax chainsaws are the same as the G-62--but significantly less cost.
Maybe if you don't mind popping a few $$ for the new chainsaw jug--Ralph might work it over for you--to increase HP. But, I don't know if he offers that type of machining and customizing service. You'll have to ask him for yourself.
I've been told that the cylinder jug for the Redmax chainsaws are the same as the G-62--but significantly less cost.
Maybe if you don't mind popping a few $$ for the new chainsaw jug--Ralph might work it over for you--to increase HP. But, I don't know if he offers that type of machining and customizing service. You'll have to ask him for yourself.