G62 Priming
#1
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (17)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Goodyear, AZ
I have been helping a friend with his new G62, and he is having a problem priming it after filling the tank. You really have to flip the prop a lot in order to get the air out of the feed line. The engine runs great once it is started, but it is difficult to start. My G62 primes significantly easier and starts in 2-3 flips. There seems to be only two differences between our setups. He has a loop in his gas tank vent line, I don't. He removed his choke and put silicone in the two holes that the choke shaft went through. Also, my G62 will actually drip gas when priming, his won't. His just doesn't seem to get as wet.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
#2
I'd put the choke plate back in.
Are you putting something over the carb to get a choke? Your thumb?
With nothing covering the opening on the front of the carb--you'll have to flip for a half-hour before it ever gets enough "suck" to pull fuel.
He needs to have the throttle fully open and the choke plate closed to get the engine to suck fuel up.
I'm running mine stock. Only thing different is a C&H ignition.
I flip the choke switch on my TX. Move the throttle stick to full throttle. Flip 3 or 4 times to pull up fuel. Turn on the ignition system and flip a couple times--till it pops once. Then turn off the choke and pull the throttle back to idle.
Flip 2 times and smile.
Are you putting something over the carb to get a choke? Your thumb?
With nothing covering the opening on the front of the carb--you'll have to flip for a half-hour before it ever gets enough "suck" to pull fuel.
He needs to have the throttle fully open and the choke plate closed to get the engine to suck fuel up.
I'm running mine stock. Only thing different is a C&H ignition.
I flip the choke switch on my TX. Move the throttle stick to full throttle. Flip 3 or 4 times to pull up fuel. Turn on the ignition system and flip a couple times--till it pops once. Then turn off the choke and pull the throttle back to idle.
Flip 2 times and smile.
#3
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (17)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Goodyear, AZ
Rcpilet
Yes we are putting a finger in the velocity stack to completely plug the intake, and have the throttle plate completely open.
Did he miss plugging a hole when he removed the choke? He just plugged the holes where the choke shaft was.
Chuck
Yes we are putting a finger in the velocity stack to completely plug the intake, and have the throttle plate completely open.
Did he miss plugging a hole when he removed the choke? He just plugged the holes where the choke shaft was.
Chuck
#4
There are only 2 holes in the carb for the choke shaft. If he plugged them both up real good--then you should be getting fuel up to the engine pretty quick.
Only other thing I can think of is a carnkcase leak. That would cause a problem with not enough vacuum under the piston when flipping. No vacuum--no fuel.
Have you checked the tank and lines. If the brass lines in the tank haven't been de-burred, than a pinhole in the tygon clunk line can cause problems.
Maybe a pinched line from the tank up to the carb. Is it pinched where it runs through the firewall? Are any of the lines old? Maybe replace the whole tank and plumbing system?
Could be one of the diaphrams in the carb. The pulses from the crankcase work the pump diaphram. If it's got even a tiny pinhole in it--your screwed. Carb kits cost about $15 at the local small engine shop.
Pay special attention to the direction of the diaphrams when removing and replacing them. If you get the one on the main jet side mixed up with the other diaphram--it will make the jet stick open all the time. Thats will cause you fits.
Good luck.
Only other thing I can think of is a carnkcase leak. That would cause a problem with not enough vacuum under the piston when flipping. No vacuum--no fuel.
Have you checked the tank and lines. If the brass lines in the tank haven't been de-burred, than a pinhole in the tygon clunk line can cause problems.
Maybe a pinched line from the tank up to the carb. Is it pinched where it runs through the firewall? Are any of the lines old? Maybe replace the whole tank and plumbing system?
Could be one of the diaphrams in the carb. The pulses from the crankcase work the pump diaphram. If it's got even a tiny pinhole in it--your screwed. Carb kits cost about $15 at the local small engine shop.
Pay special attention to the direction of the diaphrams when removing and replacing them. If you get the one on the main jet side mixed up with the other diaphram--it will make the jet stick open all the time. Thats will cause you fits.
Good luck.
#5
Senior Member
Just to make things easier, you don't need to flip the prop over comp. to prime it. Take a prop blade in one hand and pump it up and down as though you were pumping a well pump, with your thumb over the intake. Takes a lot of work out of it.
Also a plastic hypodemic makes a good primer. Once it starts it will pump itself very quickly.
Also a plastic hypodemic makes a good primer. Once it starts it will pump itself very quickly.




