BME
#4

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From: Left Coast ,
CA
Not the new 110x.
Maybe in the future the 105 might fade away. The one good thing is that if you buy the 105, I believe you can replace the jugs/pistons and then you have a 110. There is not that much price difference between the two so I don't know why anybody would not go with the 110, it's lighter too.
But on second thought, if the people want it you might as well make if for them. Just good business.
Maybe in the future the 105 might fade away. The one good thing is that if you buy the 105, I believe you can replace the jugs/pistons and then you have a 110. There is not that much price difference between the two so I don't know why anybody would not go with the 110, it's lighter too.
But on second thought, if the people want it you might as well make if for them. Just good business.
ORIGINAL: davewallace
BME's are ECHO based engines which are from Japan.
Dave
BME's are ECHO based engines which are from Japan.
Dave
#5
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From: Hammond,
IN
Perhaps they're just using up old parts until there are no more?
Since the 110 is the lightest and narrowest and strongest...I don't see why anyone would order the 105 or 102.
I'd be mighty tempted to buy a 110...if only they used a 6-bolt hub with a 10mm center shaft.
Since the 110 is the lightest and narrowest and strongest...I don't see why anyone would order the 105 or 102.
I'd be mighty tempted to buy a 110...if only they used a 6-bolt hub with a 10mm center shaft.
#6

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From: Calgary Alberta,
AB, CANADA
Diablo I have a BME 110 also a DA100 and have owned 4 ZDZ's and the single bolt hub is the best thing about the BME, the system they use is bullet proof I just hate taking off the prop with all those bolts, just my .02
#9
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I don't understand the big thing about 6 bolt hubs, but any machinist could make one for the BME 110.....Get a piece of 2024 or 7075 aluminum, bore it to fit the crank, countersink it for a custom 8mm stud to hold it on, and put 6 threaded holes in it for the prop...Install with green 680 Loctite...Thread the smooth end of the custom stud 10-32 for a spinner bolt...
The stud would start out at 1/2 inch diameter, threaded 8 mm on one end, ground taper to fit the countersink in the hub, and smooth 8mm diameter to fit through the prop...
No knurling needed on the hub, six bolts keep the prop from turning...The bottom of the hub would be small enough to hold the ring with the sensor magnet in it....
The stud would start out at 1/2 inch diameter, threaded 8 mm on one end, ground taper to fit the countersink in the hub, and smooth 8mm diameter to fit through the prop...
No knurling needed on the hub, six bolts keep the prop from turning...The bottom of the hub would be small enough to hold the ring with the sensor magnet in it....
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From: Left Coast ,
CA
Actually I prefer the single stud idea. I hate having to take on and off all those bolts. I have found that if you tighten that nut really tight you will not have any slippage and you will never shear all six bolts with a one stud set-up.



