zdz 80 break in
07-13-2005, 08:39 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Comayaguela, HONDURAS
Posts: 409
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: zdz 80 break in
If the engine is new, then yes, start with the factory settings. You will find that it has lots of power with the needles as it comes from the factory. Use the oil as it says in the manual and after a few galons of fuel, start adjusting the needles in small amounts. It will take a while for it to give you full power, so be patient and do as the manual says for breaking-in. About 5 or 6 galons you will notice the increment in power.
07-13-2005, 09:50 AM
#3
RE: zdz 80 break in
Factory settings?
maybe yes -maybe no!
The instructions are good but you -MUST- learn what the needles do -and then adjust for your use.
The probability of the needles being ideal for your setup are slim -to be blunt .
The main thing -do-not-simply run engine wide open on a break in stand - you will likely over heat it .
best prop - 26x8 -26x10 -
run engine in short cylcles on stand - short being 5- second full power (this will tell you if it is rich or lean by listening ) and let it run at mid throttle and adjust high speed needle and listen - -learn lean sound from rich sound .
try even throttle ups from idle- adjust low needle till you get smooth transition that is quick -even
notice that adjusting one needle may affect the other setting - that is- any low needle setting does affect total fuel for high speed .
BUT high speed needle will typically not affect low speed settings .
We use the recommended systhetic oil right from new - and never even look for a "broken in" period.
just don't overheat it -and use it -right from day one -
One more thing --
two strokes do not typically re start easily if HOT.
here is a good starting sequence -
open throttle -close choke
flip thru till gas appears at the carb and the carb makes a snuffling sound (fuel ) when flipped -just flip easily no wild snapping .
open choke - close carb to idle -(use the idle stop screw if running on a test stand )
flip a few times .
turn on ignition -flip-should start right up -if cold.
If warm just set at idle and and turn on ignition ad flip -it will either start right up or may make a few false starts .
The idle STOP setting will affect this - it is not a mixture thing - just getting the idle rpm right - typically the starting idle rpm is about 2000 rpm.
If you get it HOT- stop -let it cool before any more flipping -you will just get mad at it .
It is easy at this time to overchoke it and then it won't start till it really cools down.
NEVER try to start it at advanced throttle setting
this is futile -or if it does start -it can produce instant full power which can be very dangerous for you
maybe yes -maybe no!
The instructions are good but you -MUST- learn what the needles do -and then adjust for your use.
The probability of the needles being ideal for your setup are slim -to be blunt .
The main thing -do-not-simply run engine wide open on a break in stand - you will likely over heat it .
best prop - 26x8 -26x10 -
run engine in short cylcles on stand - short being 5- second full power (this will tell you if it is rich or lean by listening ) and let it run at mid throttle and adjust high speed needle and listen - -learn lean sound from rich sound .
try even throttle ups from idle- adjust low needle till you get smooth transition that is quick -even
notice that adjusting one needle may affect the other setting - that is- any low needle setting does affect total fuel for high speed .
BUT high speed needle will typically not affect low speed settings .
We use the recommended systhetic oil right from new - and never even look for a "broken in" period.
just don't overheat it -and use it -right from day one -
One more thing --
two strokes do not typically re start easily if HOT.
here is a good starting sequence -
open throttle -close choke
flip thru till gas appears at the carb and the carb makes a snuffling sound (fuel ) when flipped -just flip easily no wild snapping .
open choke - close carb to idle -(use the idle stop screw if running on a test stand )
flip a few times .
turn on ignition -flip-should start right up -if cold.
If warm just set at idle and and turn on ignition ad flip -it will either start right up or may make a few false starts .
The idle STOP setting will affect this - it is not a mixture thing - just getting the idle rpm right - typically the starting idle rpm is about 2000 rpm.
If you get it HOT- stop -let it cool before any more flipping -you will just get mad at it .
It is easy at this time to overchoke it and then it won't start till it really cools down.
NEVER try to start it at advanced throttle setting
this is futile -or if it does start -it can produce instant full power which can be very dangerous for you
07-14-2005, 09:18 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Comayaguela, HONDURAS
Posts: 409
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: zdz 80 break in
Thanks for the correction Dick, the starting sequence you describe will help me when the engine is hot, I was having trouble with that. In my case (thank god) I did not have to play with the needles when I first got the engine from rcshowcase, I turned them to find out how much more power it would give, but for avoiding over heating the factory settings were ok. Just luck I guess. After the number of tanks the manual states I started to tune the needles and it was a big difference. I´m flying at 3000 ft. 93 octane fuel and amsoil synthetic. Mejzlik 26x10 and at 6500 rpms with the side inverted muffler from rcshowcase. That´s before tunning the needles, I have not gotten the readings after tunning. Thanks for the info, I know you are an expert on the ZDZ line and any info from you is highly appreciated.
07-14-2005, 06:02 PM
#5
My Feedback: (25)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cabot,
AR
Posts: 2,406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: zdz 80 break in
When I go mine my needles were VERY out of whack... the motor had never even seen fuel. They weren't even close to the recommended starting position... they were both about 1 turn in from there.
07-15-2005, 12:58 PM
#6
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Livermore,
CA
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: zdz 80 break in
Hi Dick,
I was wondering whether you knew why 2-stroke gas engines are often hard to start when hot? What's going on to cause this condition?
Travis
I was wondering whether you knew why 2-stroke gas engines are often hard to start when hot? What's going on to cause this condition?
Travis
07-15-2005, 03:47 PM
#7
RE: zdz 80 break in
two things-- the carbs can get too hot and perk the fuel- not often but possible
and the fuel in the crankcase,vaporizes.
The piston to wall seal goes "dry" in some cases as do any other sealing surfaces-such as sealing at intake points
Ideally - the engine has a very thin oily film throughout (not sloppy wet but wet.)
The fuel mix pulled in -then compressed-on the downstroke-squirts up the intake channels and is "about right" for a spark to set it off
Too hot- the correct mix is gone .
any two stroke
and the fuel in the crankcase,vaporizes.
The piston to wall seal goes "dry" in some cases as do any other sealing surfaces-such as sealing at intake points
Ideally - the engine has a very thin oily film throughout (not sloppy wet but wet.)
The fuel mix pulled in -then compressed-on the downstroke-squirts up the intake channels and is "about right" for a spark to set it off
Too hot- the correct mix is gone .
any two stroke
