Skribnod

Does anyone have a source for spark plug shielding sleeves for gas engines? If so please post so I can obtain one. Thanks and appreciate the help.

BillS

I wrapped one in tinfoil once to prove/disprove a glitch theory. The concept is to provide a ground path for escaping high voltage in the plug wire.

However I think it is a braided stainless mesh that is used on racecars and dragsters to prevent plug cross talk and should be available at racing cart shops, drag racing shops and maybe even auto parts stores.

Bill

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

http://www.ch-ignitions.com/

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

Contact CH-Ignitions.
They will be able to address your situation and any conditions that you may have.
Great people and great products!

Skribnod

I have tried all of the advised solutions.....moved battery.......moved ignition..... shielded wire with aluminium foil........moved kill switch.......moved servo......all are seperated by at least 8-12 inches from one another. I even tried wrapping the ignition box with foil but as soon as I get 20 feet away the throttle servo goes haywire and the airplane stops. I used a flex tubeplastic throttle and there is no metal contacts anywhere. I moved the receiver 26 inches from the engine and throttle servo is 14 inches from engine. Could a bad electonic ignition box send out so a high signal it can't be trapped? Even tried a ferite magnet with a stripped wire grounded to the head of the engine but 20 feet away it revs then stops. the only servo that it seems to be effecting is the throttle. One of the problems I think that is associated to this is the engine surges and burbles bad anything past 1/2- 3/4 throttle.......there is no top end possible due to the bad burble and missing issue. Any ideas? Maybe send for a new ignition? $105 for a new one may not cure it? Thanks and any info would be appreciated.

mglavin

My Feedback: (31)

What brand ignition?

Is the plug cable in good physical condition? No abrasions, cuts or loose connections at the plug and module end?

How are you grounding the module to the engine? Is there only one ground path?

Have you tried a different throttle servo?

What type of RX, PPM or PCM?

I would send the ignition to the manufacturer for an evaluation, before I considered replacement.

Skribnod

The ignition is a old Ch ignition which had a braided shield on the plug wire. The shield and wire had a bad cut in it so I had to replace it with a modern automotive wire and ran a ground from the ignition box to the head of the engine. I have tried another new servo for the throttle and am useing a ppm receiver. I have heard warnings of useing pcm since they mask the problem of interference. I beleive the only resort I have is to buy a new ignition since this one may be the cause of the interference and the burbling/ missing and what seems like a flooding condition at high rpm. the engine will actually open up 1/2 to 3/4 at the most before it goes into a burble/ doggy condition. Thanks

mglavin

My Feedback: (31)

I'm guessing the NON shielded plug was is the culprit. The metal or shielded plug caps are not required.

Send the ignition unit to CH and have them evaluate the need for replacement or update. Make sure include every thing of the ignition system, module, switch harness and Hall Effect or crank sensor.

PPM RX's are more susceptible to interference; I often use them to validate radio system installations prior to rigging with PCM gear.

The burbling is probably not of the ignition, needle settings and or possibly the pressure changes in the cowl which affect the carb are more likely IMO.

BillS

An old automotive troubleshooting trick is to run the engine in the dark and look for spark jumping from the plug wire.

Bill