Scoubidou

My Feedback: (17)

That's what i did on my other engine. Seems to works fine.

Scoubidou

My Feedback: (17)

Mike
I received one set of 3mmx8mm screws today![sm=thumbup.gif]

airwayman

My Feedback: (2)

Call RC Showcase, I think they changed their minds...it's not what's in the printed instructions. 7mm seems to be what I remember, don't quote me, I've slept since then. JB

Tony Hallo

I tried already, no luck, my eyes are getting bad, I find it difficult to measure to the center of circle and plastic hicky with any accuracy. I tried both methods in the instuctions and came up with 5 degrees BTDC using the easy method and 11 degrees with backing up the piston 4.2mm method. I also emailed ZDZ with no response. I my humble opinion, both methods given result in timing set almost right, maybe dead on if your lucky. I would rather set it right at home and eliminate any question in my mind.
My engine was difficult to tune and after reading this post I am sersiously considering replacing the Tillotson with a Walbro WT71 just for peace of mind, even RCS is now recommending cutting down the needles on the Tillotson. It's hard to image spending $1000 on engine/muffler that's not ready for use!
The engine is a real powerhouse and I am pleased to date, I just get frustrated with all engine manufacturers when it comes to the carb, you buy a designed for "model airplane use" engine with an "out of the box" chainsaw carb. ZDZ does provided arms however the owner is left to attack the choke and throttle shafts with the Dremel tool.

Mike Dooley/RCS

7mm is the new spec as measured from the center of the crankcase webbing.....................................

airwayman

My Feedback: (2)

It's really worth your time to set the plane on a bench, pull up a chair, mark the web with a Sharpie black marker so it will show up better, use a small steel ruler accurately marked in mms, take your time, line things up and set the timing to 7mm. Call RCS, have them send you some longer screws for the black hall effect senser thingie (they volunteered to send me longer machine screws, free of charge, when I complained about the short length of the ones that came with the engine). Use some blue Locktite on the screws and you're set. Done deal. Mine runs great (notwithstanding my carb problems).

As to the carb, I too am disappointed in the carb setup. I cut my needles off and reslotted, no big deal but it should be a factory (ZDZ or RCS) done deal when you get it. As to the arms, yes, for the money we pay, there should be some better setup of the throttle/choke arms. ZDZ should really try to find a better orientation of the carb on the Super 80. My engine sticks through the firewall on the AeroWorks Yak 54. The throttle arm is difficult to set up and the angle to the throttle servo is not the best. JB

gooseF22

Mike
It was good to meet you at Toledo. Enjoyed chatting about the super 80.

When I step from my 33% suky to a 35% 260 or yak later this year, I would like a recommendation for the super 80 to max out my power for all around and hovering. IE. header/pipe. I just dont want the DA100 expense/weight for a smidgeon more "power" if any. Will shoot for 25 -26 pounds or under.

Additionally, are guys having good success with VESS 26 A or B? Im still on stock muffs and an NX 26x10.

By the way, it pulls my 25 pound suky like a mule.

Mike Dooley/RCS

Goose,
For best power and throttle response for the ZDZ Super 80 we highly recommend the 30mm wraparound header with the new JMB TR-80 rear outlet Silencer for inverted applications......Awesome sound, and extremely quiet too!!!
Thanks,

Scoubidou

My Feedback: (17)

I do not know if it's the new carb orientation but the one with needle valves pointing up is 100 to 200 RPM stronger than first version with needle valve pointing to the right?

gooseF22

As usual thanks for the timely response. Thats what my 35%er will be then. So a Rear outlet? Is there an installation picture up on your website for this. If not, maybe I could ask that you post one sometime?

thx
goose

AirWizard

My Feedback: (3)

What size of 3 blade prop should I use on my super ZDZ 80 and Ultimate?

Scoubidou

My Feedback: (17)

i would recommend 3 blades prop only for 150 CC engine but it's personnal[8D]

AirWizard

My Feedback: (3)

I would normally use a 2 blade.......but a 25x10 doesn't have enough ground clearance

Mike Dooley/RCS

Carb reorientation should have nothing to do with increasing performance, but is better able to prevent high G mixture changes when the engine is mounted inverted, and provide easier needle access.
A 24x10 three blade for 80RV and a 24x12-3 for the Super 80. The pics of the new JMB TR-70 and TR-80 should be up this week.
Thanks

Scoubidou

My Feedback: (17)

Hello Mike, I did 7 dead sticks back to back when i flew inverted with my 33% Yak.
This one costed me a new cowl and CF landing gear after a dead stick in inverted flat spin..[] I have to cut the needle valves like you have suggested.

I know that we can not rotate the tilotson carb 90 degres but will it work, if i rotate the carb on my older super ZDZ80 by 180 degres to prevent high G mixture changes? Do i need special silicone between the carb and crankcase?
Daniel

airwayman

My Feedback: (2)

[quote]ORIGINAL: Scoubidou

Daniel, I have a 33% Yak with a RV-J mounted inverted. I have 27 flights on it and have never had a dead stick, not even close. Even when the L needle was backing out almost a full turn during each flight, I still didn't have any deadsticks. Tillotson carb, SuperSonic pitts muffler, 27x10 PT CF prop, just standard stuff. Seven deadsticks back to back? In my view, it's something peculiar to your setup or your engine. If there were that many deadsticks due to a problem with all the RV-Js or the Tillotson carb, this thread would be alive with people complaining.

rmh

Since switching from Bing to Tillotson and Walbro- I simply can NOT get the carbs to respond erratically due to flight maneuvers . The proir Bings would somtimes be fussy on inverted / right - IF slightly rich - The problem was -in my book, simply that the Bing carb has a fussy demand regulator setup . It had to spot on .
On the 40/50/80/160, I place the tanks reasonably close to being centered with the carb. two line only -- med sized- NO filter in the line and NO fill valves , just a tight fitting fill plug.
Any leak in the fuel line to the carb - (not absolutely bubble tight from pick up to inlet of carb)) will make all kinds of problems from choking to goofy runing.
The single vent line faces into the oncoming airstream under the cowl.
This setup assures that flow to the carb is absolutely buble free and free flowing.
Some carbs are less fussy about all this ,than others.

dptp9lf

Mike... I noticed from the picture on your website that the outlet is in the rear of this silencer. Is it available with the outlet forward on the silencer?
Many Thanks,
BTW, this has to be the longest thread i've ever seen... like 33 pages!
Lyle

Mike Dooley/RCS

Lyle,
The front outlet T-70 or T-80 silencers simply kill engine performance on a long wraparound header, by almost 600rpm. The new TR-80 is a far better choice if the engine is inverted.
If the engine is going to be mounted horizontally and a short header is used, then the front outlet T-80 silencer would work, but even then, the new TR-80 would still have the best performance. We are thinking of discontinuing the T-70 and T-80 because the TR-70 and TR-80 are just that much better.
An exit air opening with a spoiler in the fuselage towards to back half of the silencer is needed anyway for proper cooling, so the rear outlet design is really not a problem.....
Thanks,

dptp9lf

Hi Mike... Thanks for the great advice... I 'll know more what to order when I call.
This engine is going in a R4 Firecracker racer. It has an all foam fuse so I'll have to do some modifying anyway so outlet shouldn't matter.
After getting the kit, I may realize I need a regular muffler so it may be awhile until I decide to order.
Another question. I will be putting a quite aggressive pitch prop but am trying to determine what size. I want it to rev quite high but within parameters of the engine. Do you have any ideas as far as sizing the prop? It will be trial and error but I would like to get as close a possible considering the cost of props. The kit manufacturer said with this engine it should fly at 140 mph. depending on props of course. I'm guessing a 22X20? Maybe 20X20?
Anyway, thanks for your thoughts
Lyle

Mike Dooley/RCS

A carbon 24x14 2 blade after some break in would haul some mail.....
Thanks

dptp9lf

Hi...
Your suggestion (24X14) is probably plenty aggressive... at least until I'm familiar with the airframe.
I plan to break it in on a cheap Zinger 26X10 wood... is that too much or about right... we're at about 4000 ft. ASL?
Cheers,

pliebo

hey all, I'm having a problem with my super 80 and need some help. from the start this engine was a bear to start, but I finally got it running and got about 2 gallons through it and it finally got to where it would start on the first flip when warm. I was loving it, then trouble set in. on my third start of the day the engine died after 30 seconds, would not restart. it popped once, but wouldn't go.

the next time out I noticed my filler valve had rotated so it was pinching the fuel line so I thought for sure that was it, but I didn't notice it till I had flipped it 150 times, could I have damaged the engine by flipping it so many times with a kink in the line? I can't get it to start and need some advice, I'm going to replace the fuel lines tonight, cause it seems like ther might be an air leak, when I flip it there are bubbles in the line and they move forward 1/2 in but don't travel through. thanks alot for any input. ( this is only my 3rd gas engine so I'm pretty green)

cyberchild

hey guys,

what is the best model flying weight for the motor for flying 3d?

i have a 35% wild hare giles, plane weights about 25 pounds? wana strip plane to make it lighter.

what is your thoughts

airwayman

My Feedback: (2)

My opinion is the only thing you damaged was your finger. In my experience, if a gas engine with electronic ignition, a properly charged battery, fuel in the tank and a wet carb doesn't do something in 15 or 20 flips something isn't right. Might as well stop flipping, save your arm, and investigate. You say you had bubbles in the line? How many? If it's just a few maybe it could have been from the fill procedure. If it's solid gas behind and in front of a couple of bubbles I wouldn't worry but would take notice. If it's constant bubbles, no matter how small, you've got a problem that must be fixed if you hope to have the engine run properly.