Kweasel

My Feedback: (29)

At least the giant scale modeler of yesteryear could take full credit for the quality of his equipment. Now all he can do is complain when he's not satisfied. Imagine seeing a typical current model pilot dealing with a piped Tartan on a 33% Pitts.

qnzkrew

im curious to know the needle settings some of you guys are running on the regular zdz 80 rv i just started mine up and i havent touched the neeldles yet they are still at 1 1/2 turns each . all im getting is like 5600 rpms . im just asking becuase my engine only has 4 tanks through it. i dont know if you guys are goin leaner on the high end or richer . any input would help thanks guys and by the way i had a problem with and engine and i called rcshowcase and i was mad at the beggining becuase i thought my sheared bolts were suppose to be waranty but then i spoke to mike dooley and he straightened me all out explained everything ,gave me half price to help me out and best of all I MAIDENED my 33& yak today ,,,, yeah baby

qnzkrew

im saying becuase i can tune a glow engine with perfection i just dont know if there is something in gas engine i should take differently. i had three more flights today with the 33 % yak and the zdz 80 rv and the ngine kept getting stronger with every flight.

gooseF22

Mike, can you answer this, I think it best from you....

I would think he should open up the low end a bit?

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Pull the plug and see what it looks like.

gooseF22

reminds me, are you still running 32:1. if the plug is fouling, time to go to 40:1 I did that at 4 tanks, and went to AMSoil dominator at 40:1 and it transformed the motor into a monster in one flight with no more heating than before. The engine began to loosen up nicely. good reminder Mr Bigg.

qnzkrew

hey goosef thanks for all your replies man i apprecciate it. i have 5 tanks through the engine at 32:1 using mobil synthetic 2t for aircooled engines.i only tached it once during the second time i fired it up. i will tach it again this weekend . i just dint know if you guys were leqning the high end at all to get top rpm .. thanks

gooseF22

richen low, lean high, 1/8 turn each, use 40 to 1, try that, then get the transitions smooth and responsive, then slowly lean the top. If you take the top more than 1/4 turn, open the low, a smidge. keep it 500 below max rpm on the rich side.

what prop?

keep the motor under 7500 in general, but dont load it heavily. Use the mixture to control it from there while you break it in. Once you get the low end right, dont mess with it. At some point, you will hear it kick in another level as it loosens up fully. It will act like you added a gear. When you land, the prop will flop freely back and forth, Its mostly broken in then. Stay with the 40:1 and dont be temped to go leaner. I got that directly from Mike. after awhile, take the spark plug out, clean it with a toothbrush, and alcohol or lighter fluid, and check gap. I dont remember the gap for the older 80. call zdz if you need to.

When you switch to leaner oil mixture, it will blow a bunch of black soot out of the motor. no problem, its just getting the muffler hot, and blowing the crap out so it will make power. the difference was astounding when the power came on, simply astounding. Be patient. i only got about 5600 rpm on my super 80 at first with a 26x10. Now its up over 6000, havent checked it in awhile.

dptp9lf

Hi Guys...
I was going to take the spark plug out of my ZDZ 80 RV-J but it won't come out, although I haven't really reefed on it yet.
Before I do any damage, does anyone have any tricks.
This engine has yet to be run.
I'm using the spark plug socket that came with the engine then using another 1/2 " drive socket over it with a rachet(lots of torque).
This is a right-hand thread on these plugs is it not?
Also, I tried tightnening a little first but it doesn't move either.
Do they make a better plug socket that will fit inside the heat sink/resistor piece?
Should I get the impact wrench on it to try and rattle it loose?
Any ideas would be great.

Cheers,
Lyle

airwayman

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Lyle. Couple of questions then a suggestion or two. First, why are you taking the plug out if you haven't run the engine yet? If it's new, I'd leave it alone for now. If it's used, yes, I'd definitely want to take a look at the plug. Second, since you say you haven't run the engine yet, I was wondering if it's mounted in a plane or on a secure surface or are you holding it in your hand while you attempt to remove the plug? If you're holding it in your hand, you stand a good chance of dropping the engine on the floor while you struggle with the engine, plug wrench, drive socket and ratchet. As to plug removal, Dick Hanson has a piece on this thread about the what he considers proper torque for a RV-J (Super 80) plug. He advises using a torque wrench because the setting required to assure the plug doesn't loosen is very tight. Assuming your plug is tightened to this recommended value, to someone new to the engine, yes, it seems like it "won't come out." A tip I use for loosening any spark plug is to install the proper wrench with the proper ratchet on the plug, take up the slack, and whack the side of the ratchet with the heel of the palm of my hand. This works much better than just slowly increasing pressure. One more thing, I'm certainly no engine expert, but to me, using an impact wrench on this engine is similar to brushing your teeth with a jack hammer. Good luck, you'll love the engine. Airwayman

dptp9lf

You're right Airwayman... There is probably no need to remove the plug... the Curious George syndrome was taking over at that point
I'll run it and leave it alone until I need to cross that bridge in the future.
Anyway, speaking as a highly experienced plug remover from my past careers and racing days, I've removed a lot of spark plugs from some pretty intense alloys and ran across some stubborn ones as well. I always used a 3/8" impact wrench and seldom failed. This being a foreign made engine, my main concern is that for some strange reason they would put a left hand thread on it. I know it's a pretty standard plug but you never know.
The engine is still on the bench so giving it pop like you suggested is a little cumbersome.
I'll get the engine mounted and running and when I need to remove it, I'll have the engine more secure and the old "quick pop" method should work just fine.
Also, I'll get me a high-quality plug socket rather than the cheesy one they send with the engine. Biggest problem there is getting one to fit inside the heat sink/resistor piece thingamajiggy?

Thanks for your reply,
Lyle

rmh

use a thin wall socket and it will take over 20 ft lbs to bread it loose - which is too tight in my book
with everything clean and cool and dry - 15 ft lbs is fine.
rattle wrenches are noit a great idea on this stuff--

dptp9lf

Thanks for the info Dick!
I was out looking for a thin wall socket today but they're a little hard to find. I think Snap-On or Mac will have something.
You're right on the rattle wrench thing... that would just be a last resort and of course I would have to plan on replacing the plug. I really don't think it would come to that anyway.
I have a torque wrench that I'll use when I do re-install the plug.
Anyway, first things first, we need to git her running and broken in!
Cheers,
Lyle

qnzkrew

thanks goosef ur a true rcER thanks for all the help thats what im getting right now 5600 exsactly im running a 26 1o pt models carbon fiber prop today i got two more flights in but spent most of the time fixing stuff that kept happening . tomorrow i will leave the cowling off and try to get a little more rpm. i also built a bafle inside my cowling since my 33% yak cowling covers the whole head now it has a bafle that directs air right over the cylinder head. oh and by the way i switched to 40 to 1 today and yes there is a lot of that black stuff coming out i noticed today. my 33 % sd yak is awesome i was doing knife edge take offs today followed by right side up snap rolls to hover it was awesome. i've been flying since last august goosef and i picked it up real quick i've had about 6 planes before i jumped into giant scale . i crashed all of them trying stupid stuff close to the ground but im not taking any chances with this beauty... and plus my buddy mark at the field has helped me a ton since he has been flying gas for a while now . he has a hanger 9 27% 260....... again thanks goosef

huison2005

I need some advice, i have a WORLD MODEL KATANA 36% Would the zdz80 have enough power for

this plane ?? Weight is about 28lb ready to fly .

rmh

it will fly it - --the question is , wha type of performance are you after? - up hyre at 4350 ft it takes a pipe version well setup on a 27x10 to get really unlimited performance on big heavy models - if that model were mine --it would get the early style 160 on in cowl mufflers light strong n a little noisy but a great combo.

airwayman

My Feedback: (2)

A 160 on a 28 lb. plane???? Do you launch it like a foamy??

rmh

the more power available - the more slowly you can fly the model -if weights remains the same . this is why my favorite engine for these so called 100 sized planes is the light ZDZ160 (early model ) low weight gain huge power gain.

huison2005

Well , i am at sea level here . As i am looking for 3D type of perfomance

Will it perfomance ?? And would like to know the level of vibration compare to twin engine .

airwayman

My Feedback: (2)

How does the weight/power of this "early model" ZDZ 160 compare with say, a DA 150? Can you still get the old model 160? How much more does the newer one weigh than the older one? And finally, what 100cc size plane will allow a 160 size motor to fit in the cowl?

dptp9lf

Hi...
Can I remove the Idle adjustment screw on the Tilotson carb? It's ok where it is but I just wanted to clean it up a little. I will investigate myself but I'm closer to my computer than the engine at this moment.
Cheers,
Lyle

airwayman

My Feedback: (2)

I took mine out. Works just fine.

dptp9lf

Thanks Airwayman... I'll try it.
Cheers,
Lyle

dptp9lf

Mike...
I have the Wraparound pipe and TR80 ordered but it's back ordered. Do you happen to know the measurment from the exaust port to the back of the silencer with this set-up so I can plan a little closer on space needed?
Of course anyone else that knows can chime in as well.
Cheers,
Lyle

Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway

My Feedback: (42)

Is anyone using one of these engines on a Pacific Models 35% extra or have an idea of header needed for a pipe or if I don't modify for pipe a performance cannister?

Thanks

Richard