well i got to try and test the engine i just bought the other day. it has a ch synchrospark ignition on it. its a zenoah 40cc made by tom perry. the prob i have is that i will only get a spark when i turn the ignition switch off. i get nothing when i turn it on or flip the prop. it appears everything is hooked up correctly so im stumped. can anyone help me out here and let me know what to look for? could the system be bad? i wouldnt think so being relatively new. anyway i would appreciate any input anyone can give me.. thanks

Are you sure the switch cover isn't on backwards? The C-H ignitions spark when you turn them on.

well i tried flipping the prop in both positions with still no spark

Well, how about the gap between the pulse switch and your magnet, should be .010-.020.

i will check that out.. will reply in a few

gap seems to check out ok and i did see that the magnet did not fall out either so its all there.. i guess i need to take a voltmeter next and see if its getting any signal to the box when i turn the crank.. any ideas on how i should do this or what else i can check?

thanks

You may have a bad pulse switch. With the ignition ON, try shorting the black wire and the white wire coming from the ignition box (to the pulse switch). Use a bent paper clip (or something similar) at the female Deans connector.

This test performs the same function as the pulse switch and you should get a spark each time you short the wires. If it sparks when you do this, you need a new pulse switch. If not, send it in to CH Ignitions for a check up.

What I believe is happening is this. When you turn the ignition OFF the pulse switch goes to LOW state and the ignition fires the charge in the output Capacitor. This tells me that the ignition is good and the pulse switch is not.

Also check the gap between the magnet and the pulse switch - it should be .020 (or the thickness of a business card.

Bad pulse switch.....Be sure the Deans plug is correctly connected...It can be plugged backwards, not likely but possible....

where exactly is the pulse switch? is that the connector from the sensor to the ch box?? let me know.. im a lil new to electric ignition..

thanks

The pulse switch is the thing you are calling the "sensor". It is also known as the Hall Effect switch.

Do your test at the end of the female Deans connector coming from the ignition box - it is the 3 wire lead with red, black, and white wires. Short ONLY the white and black wires by poking a "U" shaped wire in the end of the Deans connector. Keep repeating this and you should get a spark each time.

Just unplug the pulse switch connector and do the test on the end of the female connector.

Let us know if you get a spark when you do this.

I am not familiar with the Perry conversion so I don't know what the pulse switch configuration is like - but I'm sure it is there<G>.

tried it and still no spark.. tom perry wanted me to send it back to him for repair, he also thinks the sensor is blown.. just disappointed i guess. more money i have to put out when i thought everything worked on it .. looks like i have to send it off and hopefully it wont cost an arm and a leg

By the way, ignitions incorporating Syncro Spark will not fire when turned ON. Only when the pulse switch passes over the magnet will it fire. The signal must go LOW and then back HIGH before it will fire.

Ignitions without SS may fire, under certain circumstances, when turned ON.

Bradley, are you sure your battery is well charged. If you have a voltmeter, check for voltage (red and black leads) at the battery connector going into the ignition box. Then check at the pulse switch connector (again, the red and black wires). With the ignition ON you should have at least 4.8V at the 'battery in' connector.

The pulse switch voltage is regulated by the SS unit, so you will not have more than 5.0V at the pulse switch connector.

What voltage and mAh rating is the battery pack that you are using?

If you were getting a spark before - when you turned the ignition OFF - it would seem that the ignition box is working - at least it is charging the output Capacitor.

If your battery is OK then I guess you best send it back to the manufacturer.

i tried 2 different batteries so i doubt that is the prob , but thanks