soldering muffler tap
#1
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soldering muffler tap
I soldered a brass tube into my stock G26 muffler for smoke. Appears to be really solid. Any problems with this (heat)? I initially tried JB weld and while putting the black tubing on the end, it came loose. I have pulled and wiggled it with the solder and it doesnt budge! Just wondering if I am overlooking some un-foreseen problem? Thanks
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RE: soldering muffler tap
Use silver solder or better yet, braze it.
Dr.1
PS JB Weld will work provided:
The surfaces are COMPLETELY clean, and devoid of grease or oil.
You mix the parts properly.
After the joint is together DO NOT EVEN BREATHE ON IT for at least 48 hours.
Make a nice fillet around the joint.
Dr.1
PS JB Weld will work provided:
The surfaces are COMPLETELY clean, and devoid of grease or oil.
You mix the parts properly.
After the joint is together DO NOT EVEN BREATHE ON IT for at least 48 hours.
Make a nice fillet around the joint.
#5
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RE: soldering muffler tap
ORIGINAL: Dr1Driver
Use silver solder or better yet, braze it.
Dr.1
Use silver solder or better yet, braze it.
Dr.1
Temperature in an exhaust depends on where you measure relative to the engine outlet. A 2 stroke egt is about 500 degrees at the engine, but one inch away can be 300 degrees. A four stroke is much hotter with the egt about 7 to 800 degrees at the engine whereas a gasoline powered engine can be upto 1600 degrees. When you measure the egt for a comparsion, be sure your setup is repeatable because false readings are easy to take.
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RE: soldering muffler tap
If you want to Hard solder that fitting, then use 56% silver solder. It melts at about 1200 degrees. I have used it on my RCS 215 and never had a problem. I'm useing stainless steel 20-mm tubing for the extensions. Just make sure that the parts are very CLEAN before you solder and use the right flux(a must) and yo will be very happy with the out come.
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RE: soldering muffler tap
A couple of very important items.....(silver soldering and brazing are essentially the same work) 1. real silver solder, minimum of 45% silver, from a welding shop, not that fake junk at Radio Shack which is just low temp solder. 2. You will need more heat than available from a standard propane torch, so get a bottle of MAPP gas and put your torch onto it. 3. Flux...the correct type is so very important, get it at the welding shop when you get the silver solder. Clean every piece thoroughly, add the flux, apply heat until the whole assembly is glowing red, then add the silver solder onto the glowing metal, it should melt right in, and if the temp is high enough it will suck itself right into the cracks in the workpiece. Properly done, it'll stand more heat than your motor can produce. Practice on scrap brass tubing and flat stock helps.
good luck, and in no time you'll be doing it for all your friends too.
good luck, and in no time you'll be doing it for all your friends too.