outssider

My Feedback: (23)

mvvs 45MG (43 CC) = evolution 45mg (43 cc)


anyone have any first hand knowledge of this relatively new engine?

It appears to be out in Europe and Canada ! It's easily available there !

nobody in the states seems to stock it yet.

manufacturer claims it can easily swing a 23"-24" prop with the power of a 50cc motor.

anybody have one and can verify these claims.....

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

Hi outssider,

I have one in a 87" Yak that I've only flown one day with four 15 minutes flights. You can read my flight report, with engine performance details on it here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3371330

I was using a 24X8 NX and it turned it at 6K even, while new and rich. I have not leaned it yet, and the NX is a higher load prop than the recommened Mejzlik's. Also, I am using a KS canister rather than the MVVS canister that was used for the published performance numbers, so it's very hard to compare apples to apples at this point. I can tell you it ran flawlessly, had plenty of power for the 17.5lb Yak as it was, transition was perfect, with no flatspots and perfectly smooth throught the whole range. It also starts easliy and consistently, cold, or warm.

We'll just have to wait until I get some more time on the motor, and try some different props, to know what it's potential is, but right now it's more than adequate for my application, and it running perfectly, so I'm a very happy camper.

pe reivers

Bill, Good report on the Yak.
The 43cc MVVS is lighter than their 35cc, so I am a bit surprised that she ended up nose heavy. Those tail feathers must be extremely light!

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

Hi Pe,

It only came out nose-heavy because I threw everything up in the engine box in expectation of it being tail heavy because of the super-light 45. I have two 2500 mah Nimh receiver batteries, an 1800 Mah Nimh ignition battery, the ignition module, and a choke and throttle servo in the engine box to get it a bit nose heavy. I'm just pulling off one of the receiver batteries out to shift the CG back a bit.

The engine is amazingly light.

Bill

pe reivers

Wow! so much extra weight!
make that two 800 mah parallel receiver batteries, one 1200 mah ignition battery, and dump the choke servo. That makes a world of difference in 3D.
Take one spare 1200 ignition battery with you for all-day fun.
I never charged more than 800 mah into my ignition battery after towing duties.

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

Hi Pe,

Thanks for the ideas...but....

I can't imagine running that small of capacity on the receiver/servos. How many, and what type of servos are you running on 1600mah? I'm pretty positive that 6 digital servos would choke on the small of battery at their peak potential draw, at least Hitec's will. I was going to go down to one 2500 mah and was worrying about that. I would go to a 1200 mah ignition battery but I don't think it would save me anything since the ignition is 4 AA's as it is(3 oz). I would guess your 1200 probably weighs within 1/2oz of my 1800.

You're not getting my choke servo! I love my choke servo, and you're only talking about 1 oz total with linkage, and it's worth every bit of that ounce to me for the convenience and secondary kill system.

I know weight's very important in 3D, and I'm willing to raise the risk level a bit by removing the redundant receiver battery to save 5-6oz, since that's significant, but I'm not going to go to any real effort, or loss of convenience, to lose a couple of ounces on this particular plane. I figure I'd rather spend the extra bucks on an EF, or QQ Yak down the road, and in that way save 2 lbs while being able to keep the same setup I have right now. Yes, there really is 2lbs+ difference in airframe weight between the EF or QQ, and the KMP, BME and TOC Yaks. Amazing, but true. []

Nogyro

My Feedback: (10)

I hear that! After having my 28% WH Edge set up with a manual choke arm, I set my Extra up with a servo on the choke. Love it! I'll never go back to a manual choke again. Not worth the 1 oz. saved, and like you said, that's another way to kill the engine. My Edge now has a choke servo also.

rmh

I run one 900 ma 6v KANN pack for rx and one 900ma 4.8v KANN pack for ignition
servos 4-9411s and one 8411 and a little analog for throttle in my 3D Showtime
The 26 is running between 7-1000 rpm all flight long up n-down
The pack consumption is aprox 200 ma per flight on RX and not much over 100 ma on engine.
Total battery weight s= 6.5 ounces - I can do 3-4 flights easily on a charge of the rx
With proper setups the chance of failure of any component in the radio system is really hard to pinpoint.
So I simply try to make sure each component has best possible inspection/ protection -with NO redundancy.
The worst possible risk maker -is failure to protect against vibration -so 1/2" thk white rubber foam is provided for all parts and all wires are restrained from flopping and flailing.
I thrash the be jeezus out of this plane and if anything can come loose -it will.
Too much risk? I don't think so .

The 10lb 2 ozs Showtime will shortly be retired and the engine will get to really work - in a highly modified 1134 sq in Extra 260.
going for under 11 lbs all up -
I did my 1280 sq in Petrel at 11 lbs w/ZDZ40+pipe so I think it will all work out.
I want this sucker to fly like a foamy -or die trying.

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

Hi Nogyro,

It's really kind of a funny thing. People seem to be as passionate about this issue as several other "controversial" setup issues. You either love them, or don't want anything to do with them....and either way is just fine. I can easily see the other side of this argument, but it's not my side.

Nogyro

My Feedback: (10)

Hey bpryor,

It's just tooooooooo easy to flip a switch to turn the choke on and off. Especially if you mis it the first time and have to re-choke or something.........

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

The total weight for my 4.8v 1800mah ignition and 6v 2500mah receiver is 8.3 oz. I don't care about the extra capacity of the ignition, but it's basically free, so why not, but I think the extra couple of ounces is well worth the extra capacity for the receiver, especially if you're running Hitecs that are known to lock up(reboot) if critically low voltage is reached. I don't know how the JR's are relative to the Hitec's, but I'd imagine they don't have the same issue since they're not programmable.

Wow, we're a ways off of the MVVS 45 question, aren't we....it seems to go that way these days more often than not. I for one don't care, since it's easy to pull the thread back to the original topic if something new comes up.....like if I luck out and the rain stops and I get some more flights in....[]

Wings-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

" The total weight for my 4.8v 1800mah ignition and 6v 2500mah receiver is 8.3 oz"

Wow, who make these batteries! That's less than 1 oz per cell with capacities 1800-2500ma! Every thing I found would be at least 12 oz.
That would be a lighter setup than LiIons with regulators at the same capacity!

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

You're right, I was doing it from memory and I was off on the 4.8 by 1/2oz. Here's their true weight below in the pictures...and you don't have to think my scale is off, I have verified weights for 1, 10 and 16ozs. Also, my YAK came out very heavy, not light. []

BTW, you're right, it isn't much different than a li-ion of the same capacity with a regulator. The li-ion possibly could be 1/2oz lighter, but that's it. That's the reason I'm running Nimh's. I see no reason to run li-ion in this particular application.

Wings-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Bill, from your pictures, I tried to read the label but I can't tell who makes these batteries. NoBS list their 5 cell 1950 & 2700 batteries as 7.2 oz. Your batteries are quite a bit lighter and rated at similar capacity. So who makes them, and do you happen to know the impedance of these cells?

rmh

Just a hunch--they are No Namers (plain wrapper types).
Being an electric motor, foamie flyer --I have a thrust stand I designed plus a Whatt Meter .
If I doubt or want to know what the battery really does -- I hook the battery to the meter -and then to a motor -which provides the load desired.
It only took one day to find out who was BSing about their batteries for sale. Some sag instantly
The KANN I use as well as the new SANYO Nimh will almost provide current for welding
Others may not ----The worst types we saw were th early LiPo's they would barely hold 2C discharge rate at rated output.
Some new NiMh will run over 10-15-up to 20 times rate !
Ihave had guys brag about how their Li packs will outlast all other types -etc.
but AMPS is AMPS
If your 1000 ma pack outlasts my 1000 ma pack --in same use --there is a good chance it is limited in current output.
so what?
well -there is a good chance that voltage to the application, droops .
On some servos(?) this can be baaad.
ditton on ignitions -ditto on rx etc..
This is why I feel good about my little KANNS- they will really deliver alot of currrent on demand.
My new JR Sanyo's -- same thing --
Everybody should read up on info available from electric motor/battery suppliers and look at what is Now available .
therE is no sense in using older types or buying into very expensive "systems".
BEWARE OF PLAIN WRAPPER CELLS -SOME ARE GOOD ---SOME NOT SO GOOD.

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

Hi Wings-RCU,

Just for you guys, I took a closeup picture, but you still can't read some of the print. I got out my reading glasses...and magnifying glass and it says: Ni-mh rechargeable battery Super Power for RC Sport and www.3epower.com under the name which looks most like Stone, but I don't think that's it. Here is a link to a page of some specs at that Web site: http://www.3epower.com/servlet/Detail?no=96 You'll notice that it says it weighs 6 oz., which made me wonder about my scale(which I had just verified), so I put it on my little .1 accuracy postal scale, that I also verified, and it came out 5.0 oz too. See picture below.

I do not know the impedance and unfortunately they don't list it on the site. BTW, I bought them off eBay, but the price on their site is even cheaper. They say they are matched sells. They other packs that are even cheaper.

Hi Dick

I am obviously not a battery expert. I have not cycled these batteries yet to see if they come up to rated capacity, but that's the only thing I'm able to test. If there is some other test I can run that I can easily setup, let me know and I'll test them out. I'll cycle one today to see what that yields.

rmh

The only test that will show ability to carry sustained discharge -AT PROPER VOLTAGE- is to test that function in real time .
This is a very common problem for electric motor flyers .
The WHATT Meter works like this:
input (battery) shows on a readout as voltage.
output (load ) is attached --( a speed controller and a motor with a prop which loads the motor.)
the meter displays voltage -plus watts and amps all at the same time.
As the speed controller (load side) is ramped up - the numbers all start to change .
On a really High capacity battery , the voltage stays pretty constant as the watts and amps read higher .
On a high resistance /high impedance power supply(the battery type and connections used) the meter will show the voltage decreasing more rapidly.
By revving the motor up and down - you quickly see if the battery is up to the task.
If the price of a Whatt meter is not in the budget - ask for help from a friend who is a dedicated electric flyer -many of these guys understand the need for this unit and you can easily connect your 5 cell or 4 cell packs to even small 100 watt motor /controller setups .
It is well worth doing.
(My next slide please)

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

Thanks for the tutorial Dick. I've saved it away for later use, though I have a hobby shop not too far away where a couple of the guys are really into electrics so maybe I can get them to help me out. My next project is a slow flyer plane the I've had sitting around for awhile, so I might take the plunge and buy the test equipment for that.

Totally off the subject(like we aren't already), but I thought you might be interested Dick. I'm building a German semi-kit from slow-flyer.com called a SlowRide. It's a 10oz F3A-I indoor biplane. 35" WS with "3D" Depron fuse and sectioned wings. It's a pretty amazing flyer. There's a model of it available for Aerofly Pro, which is fun to fly on there too.

....and no, I'm not using "generic" lipos off eBay for it.

GoeKeli

My Feedback: (18)

Nice hijack!

How about some more first hand experience with the MVVS 45MG!!!

Good luck with your project outssider!

Joe