futaba1024

Hi.
Have seen a number of posts and photos of this motor on here,think it's from China by Tomyrcmodels I think, trouble is in the photos the spec seems to differ, on most of the shots the mounting lugs look very flimsy

Has anybody purchased and run one? Are they any good, also can't seem to find a price.
cheers.

futaba1024

Has anybody tried one of these?

uno

My Feedback: (19)

I have one mounted in the Wildhare Baby Edge. Lugs are ok and I'm having a balst with it.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I got one from www.brillelli.com and they call it a 40GT. The mounting stand-off's are first rate and you can get them in different lengths to fit your installation. Mine is still in the break-in stage but is spinning a APC 20x8 prop at 7100RPM and is generating 18lbs of thrust. It was a little hard to start the first time, but after that is has started very easy. I have it on a Giles-202 and the total weight of the plane with the engine is 12lbs 10oz. With 18lbs of thrust she will fly very well. Here is a pic on the plane. Brillelli is the best place to deal with. They have the best customer service I have every seen.

captinjohn

Jim: How is that Giles 202 doing with the 40? Capt,n

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

CaptnJohn,

I have not had a chacce to fly the Giles withe the 40GT yet. I plan on doing so this Thursday. I'll let you know. I'll post flight report here Thursday evening. I have just about 1 gallon of fuel thru the 40GT so far and she is spinning a APC 20x8 prop at 7100RPM and getting 18lbs of thrust. The plane weigh's only 12lbs 10oz so she should have plenty of pull.

SIREX

I purchased one from Adam at BCMA engines. It runs great. I have a video of it running if I can find it. Adam even custom paints them.

SIREX

One more pic.

pianori

My Feedback: (2)

Well I was wrong about the ignition it is a piece of junk. Just before the engine finished going through its first gallon the ignition started to act strange. First the engine started to quit for no reason and then it would backfire and then it would not start at all. After rechecking the timing and setting it to 30 degrees, changing the spark pug recharging the battery etc I realized that the ignition would fire whenever it would be convenient for it. By then my arm and shoulder were just about num and senseless from the numerous attempts to start the engine. I happened to have a CH ignition unit so I decided to install it on this engine. I had ordered a WT 540 carburetor which I installed on the engine. It took some time to prime the new carb, but once it primed the engine fired right up. Boy did it make a difference with the new card and the CH ignition. Before the engine was ok but now it has turned into a respectable gasoline engine. Before with the original carburetor and ignition it could not turn the 20 x8 mejzlik any faster than 6500rpm. Now with this setup it turned the same prop at 7450 rpm! I am really happy. The digital scale attached to the engine mount recorded 20 pounds of thrust. This is great. I assume that the engine would behave even better after a few more gallons trough it.

Now with the CH ignition the transition is flawless no hesitation or popping. At one point today I decided while the engine was running to watch a movie on TV. I had set the engine just above idle and left it running with the CH and the new carburetor. The 2 hour long movie finished and the engine continued to run solid. I went and gave it full throttle after the long idling run and the engine did not stutter at all to full power. I am really pleased with this setup. I will now install a little bigger muffler to see it makes a difference.

YOU CAN SEE A VIDEO OF THE ENGINE RUNNING AT:

[link]http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video.php?viewkey=b69c008601b8becae392[/link]

gpar

Did you have to readjust the timing, (positioning the magnet sensor) after changing the ignition module ?.

helino

Whats the link to the dealer of this engine. Thanks

gapple12

THey dont make the 40cc at the moment, but here is where most have bought it from.


http://bcmaengines.com/

pianori

My Feedback: (2)

gpar..
The timing was set at 30 degrees BDC just by sliding the collar of the pick up sensor. The original pick up sensor had to be modified in order to work with the CH ignition (just the wires). This was an old CH ignition with time advance so the sensor did not match this setup. The new ones do. But it was easy.

helino...
I bought the engine from www.peakmodel.com $280 including shipping. Or you can get one from a Chinese website (if you can make sense out of it) for a lot cheaper. The engine will need to be modified in order for it to work well as in the video. The carburetor will need to be changed to a larger diameter one ($20), and the ignition replaced if the one you get ends up being a bad one. I found last week though peakmodel that Melody (the manufacturer) of the engine just came out with a brand new ignition that will be able to run from 4.8 V to 17 volts. If you buy one from there make sure you ask for the new ignition otherwise they will send you the old one and it sucks. If you want to get further into making the engine better you can balance the crank shaft. But that is not really that necessary. Mine turns 7450 rpm on a 20x8 with the new carburetor and ignition and it seems pretty smooth. It is up to you. Other than that it is an excellent inexpensive engine.

The link is:
http://www.peakmodel.com/index.php?m...f9ee46602a0020
[link]http://gpar..[/link]

gapple12

Pianori, how many RPM's did you gain with that bigger carb? I am lacking a little power for hover and could use the extra thrust. Mine is the stock SPE, even with melody ignition. DId you notice any gains with the better ignition? Thanks

pianori

My Feedback: (2)

The gain was immediate with the new carburetor abut 1000 rpm. I had to ream the inside plastic intake that connects to the engine so that it can get more air in. The difference that I noticed with the CH ignition is that the engine ran smoother with no popping at all. I do not know if the total gain was because of the carburetor only or a combination of the ignition as well. For sure the ignition made the engine run allot smother as you can hear on the video. Did you see the video that I posted?
Get a carburetor since it is a bolt on solution and ream your plastic intake that connects to the engine. You should notice immediately the difference. I found one on eBay for nine dollars so I figured I have very little to loose. I hope this helps

gapple12

Thanks, do you know the model number and brand of the new carb? I could use that extra power.

pianori

My Feedback: (2)

The carburetor is a Walbro WT 540 I am sure there are other ones that will work as well. I think that brillelli.com sells some Zama carburetors for this engine. I have no idea how they rate in compare to the Walbro. I know the WT540 is rated as an excellent carburetor.

gapple12

Thanks Pianori, you had mentioned you bought it on eBay. I looked on there and didn’t find much. Do you know of another site that would sell these carbs? Thanks for your help, I will be purchasing the ignition next.

pianori

My Feedback: (2)

I just looked on eBay and there are two WT540 carburetors so go get them:
[link]http://cgi.ebay.com/Walbro-WT540-diaphragm-carb-for-lawn-equipment-NOS_W0QQitemZ7773994277QQcategoryZ85915QQrdZ1QQssP ageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem[/link]
And
[link]http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Walbro-Carburetor-WT540-Free-S-H_W0QQitemZ140009401512QQcategoryZ85915QQrdZ1QQssP ageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem[/link]

There is also another carburetor (not the WT 540) for this engine at:
[link]http://www.brillelli.com/brillelli_004.htm[/link]
for $14. The diameter is smaller than the WT 540 but it should be ok for you to get an rpm gain.

You can reed a review for the WT 540 at:
[link]http://tech.flygsw.org/g26anatomy2.htm[/link]

For parts for SPE40 look at [link]http://www.himodel.com/engines/spare_parts_2156.html[/link]

You can download a good manual for the SPE40 at:
[link]http://www.himodel.com/en/info/manual/SPE-40CC_manual.pdf[/link]

This is the Walbro site with a list of all the carburetors:
[link]http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/group2.asp?FamilyName=WT[/link]

You can get a good ignition for $80 at:
[link]http://www.copperheadaviation.com/[/link]
He does not have them listed but he has them.
Another place to get the ignition is at:
[link]http://www.bcmaengines.com/BCMAProducts.htm[/link]

You can always spend more money and get a CH but the ignitions that I’ mentioning they are excellent and have a very good reliable track record.

I hope this helps you
Take care,
Eric

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Gapple,

You can go to www.brillelli.com and look at the accessiery tap and you will find a Walbro carb that will work on the SPE40 engine. Brillelli used to sell the engine as a 40GT and used this carb. I have one on mine and it spins a Xoar 20x8 prop at 7000 rpm with a CH ignition. The carb is $14.95

gapple12

GREAT!!!, thanks so much for the help. I will check those sites out when I get home. Damn boss blocks most sites from me, just not rcuniverse.

gapple12

Pianori,
Wanted to ask you a question. I bought the WT 540 carb on ebay, probably the same one as you for nine dollars or so, anyways I reamed out the intake spacer then bolted the carb on. Set the needles about 2.5 out each just to be sure. Well, got it running but had to back both needles almost completely out for it to run right. Did you have any issues with yours? Mine also has a different kind of choke on it. Works ok, but prefer the manual stock one. It ran super strong though at about 3 or more turns out. I even put the other carb back on to make sure it wasn’t the fuel line or tank. Ran perfect with the old carb back on. Not sure what could be wrong. Mine is the older verson of the SPE 40cc with the black ignition.

Please help............

pianori

My Feedback: (2)

Hmm.. it sounds that your pump is not working right. The plastic piece that carburetor connects to the body of the engine has a channeled groove that backs up against the a small hole on the underside of the carburetor. On the old carburetor the hole matches up perfectly with the whole on the plastic piece that connects to the engine block. If the hole on the carburetor does not line up with that groove the internal pump of the new carburetor will not work. That is why you have the needles all the way out. There is no pressure provided to the diaphragm pump in order to work right. What I did with mine was to create with an exacto knife a small channel further out so that it allowed for the crank pressure to reach the whole in the new card. It works perfectly. If this does not help let me know so that I can try to send you some pictures that might clarify this. Good luck

gapple12

Sounds right. I do remember seeing that hole. I will check that tomorrow after work and let you know. Did you reuse your same gasket or make a new one? It might be possible one of them is leaking air. I REALLY appreciate your help...

pianori

My Feedback: (2)

No problem for the help. Any time. I made a new gasket for the carburetor as the holes do not match. The gasket material I bought from an auto parts store. I also changed the gasket in between the head and the engine casing. The gasket that it comes with is 0.018” so I changed it to 0.010”. I made a gasket out of a K&S copper sheet and in between I used high a temperature gasket maker. So this setup dropped the head 0.008” and thus increased the compression ratio a little. Anything lower will risk having the piston hiting the top. I picked up about 200 rpm. I am in the process of getting some custom piston rings matched to this cylinder. We will see if it will increase the performance more. Oh, I also balanced the crank and it actually smoothed the engine a bit. I guess I like to tinker with stuff a bit…