[]Looking for some information on the lenth of a header
pipe from flange to canister mufffler coupling for best
performance also need RPM numbers.
Using K&S flange and pipes.
Thanks

I've been tempted to try and make a set of headers for my 105. Was it difficult to find parts and weld them together?

The only person that I know who have done this for a BME 105 is Kris Welter.
He use to be on RCU but I haven't seen him here in quite some time.
If you email me directly, I may be able to find his email address.

Hey Miles, when I first got my Wild Hare 330, the BME 110 wasn't quite out yet, so I put in a BME 105, and used the KS 86 V4 cannisters, which is the same as MRT 1750 is going to use. I've included a pic of my install. I got the stainless steel header parts from Desert Aircraft and had them welded together. The header length should be 11" from the flange to the cannister inlet. My prop of choice was the Menz 27x10, but sorry, I don't remember what rpm I got.

Several months later,when the 110 came in, I needed a new header, so this time I got the parts from Desert Aircraft, and, using their brazing rod, I made up the headers myself rather than having them welded. It's very similar to sweat soldering copper pipe, and I have yet to have a joint fail. Ernie, just call Desert Aircraft, they have all the header parts you'll need.

Ernie and Mrt, what planes are you guys putting your 105s into?

Tim, what did you do with your header pipe and flange for the BME 105?

Tim
Thanks for posting so quickly, I have installed the 105 in a Aeroworks Edge 540 33%. Hope it comes in a around 27# do you think that will be enough Engine for 3D

Ernie 58
All the parts including mufflers I bought from DA. You can get a exhaust flange and what ever pipes you need straight, 90', they are thin wall stainless steel, they snap together to make it easy to braze (silver solder). Like Tim said it's not hard to make your own.
order a couple extra pieces to practice with make sure you buy the silver rod from DA also it has flux on it and works well on clean pipes heat till cherry red then apply the silver rod it will flow in like solder on a water pipe. Once you do one you will not be looking for headers ever again you can make any shape or size you want or need. You will need a Mapp Gas torch $40.00 at home depot, it's like a propane torch except it gives off more heat enough to braze with.

Thanks

Thanks for all the advice! I would have replied sooner but was out to the in-laws for the weekend. My 105 was in a CA 2.6 Extra. Sold the plane..kept the motor. The BME is currently without a home, but I do have an NIB 35% WH Extra I'm considering planting it in. I'd wanted to try cannisters but the lack of headers always stopped me. But you've all convinced me I can build my own!

For those of you willing to experiment, I'm building some "home brew" cans. I have several variants - some designed as "cannisters" which might be subject to inlet length tuning opitmization and a few with internal baffles to actually "muffle" the engine, rather than tuning it... If anyone is interested in doing some experimenting, please drop me an email off list at [email protected] .I'm doing all my own work. I bought an AC Tig welder and have started practicing. Actually welding thinwall 6061 is VERY difficult to do without burning through and ruining it!! My mufflers will be 12 inch and 16 inch overall with 2 inch OD. Available as "tuned" or "muffled" (with extra baffle on the 16 inch version) all up weight is 7 1/2, 8 1/2 and 9 1/2 ounces for the 12, 16 and 16 baffled. A very unique part of my design is machined "cone" shaped end bells, to help broaden the RPM range where the engine is particularly happy. I expect to be welding some up this week. Inlet size is .75 OD. outlet is 5/8 OD. Front exhaust. All is experimental, buyer beware, could be junk. But I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night!!

Joe,
I know nothing about mufflers so this question is for my education.
With the volume of each jug at 55cc and combustion increasing the volume beyond that limit, how do you know what size holes to put in the baffle and the exhaust nipple? I know that you need to make the length so that the shock wave forces gas back into the cylinder. From your design, it looks like the tube length is long enough to really give the engine a power boost, but how do you know how restrictive to make the exhaust? If combustion gives you 8 to 1 more volume (just guess) then you will be getting 440cc per revolution which would need to exhaust 2,640,000cc per minute at 6000 rpm.

If I am making this too hard, then let me know.

I always put small holes in the baffle. Effective surface area total of all holes is equal to inlet pipe area. Outlet pipe (stinger) is sized .6 the diameter of inlet pipe (same as all other muffler designs!) Internal end is wide open, with about .3 to .4 inch gap from end of stinger to sidewall of inlet tube (same as other designs). Only thing I'm changing is adding 30 degree cone shaped end bells to reduce "peaking" and do more "muffling". More trial and error than science. Lots of building and testing to get the desired result... If you're into the science, there is a free program called pipe_dsn.exe on a site I found that sells a professional design program called "MOTA". This is more of a "tuned pipe" however, really intended for max boost at a fixed RPM rather than a smooth effect over the full RPM range like we use for IMAC.

This statement taught me something.
I was under the impression that the can's was to reduce noise and if you get them at the proper length, then you saw the boost benefit only at the proper length (max rpm) is this not true? If you have the can adjusted to give you the boost at 6000rpm, will you still see a power benefit at 4000rpm? I know you will have reduced sound, but not power output.
Please elaborate.