Old Engine
12-07-2005 | 11:59 PM
#1
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From: maryville,
TN
Old Engine
Hello Everyone,
I am now putting together an old ATF I bought in 1988. Guess you could say I just never got around to it. At the time I bought two engines. The idea being that if I had one cheap one to start with and a better one for ( after I learn to fly ) later this would see me through for a while. My question to you guys is: the cheaper engine I bought was an A.S.P. from World Engines INC. It is still in the original box. But nothing came with it in the way of papers, instructions, warranty or anything. How could I get some information about this engine. It is the A.S.P. 40 R/C . I bought it in 1988. Thanks!
I am now putting together an old ATF I bought in 1988. Guess you could say I just never got around to it. At the time I bought two engines. The idea being that if I had one cheap one to start with and a better one for ( after I learn to fly ) later this would see me through for a while. My question to you guys is: the cheaper engine I bought was an A.S.P. from World Engines INC. It is still in the original box. But nothing came with it in the way of papers, instructions, warranty or anything. How could I get some information about this engine. It is the A.S.P. 40 R/C . I bought it in 1988. Thanks!
12-08-2005 | 12:10 AM
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: Old Engine
ORIGINAL: Smokie56
Hello Everyone,
I am now putting together an old ATF I bought in 1988. Guess you could say I just never got around to it. At the time I bought two engines. The idea being that if I had one cheap one to start with and a better one for ( after I learn to fly ) later this would see me through for a while. My question to you guys is: the cheaper engine I bought was an A.S.P. from World Engines INC. It is still in the original box. But nothing came with it in the way of papers, instructions, warranty or anything. How could I get some information about this engine. It is the A.S.P. 40 R/C . I bought it in 1988. Thanks!
Hello Everyone,
I am now putting together an old ATF I bought in 1988. Guess you could say I just never got around to it. At the time I bought two engines. The idea being that if I had one cheap one to start with and a better one for ( after I learn to fly ) later this would see me through for a while. My question to you guys is: the cheaper engine I bought was an A.S.P. from World Engines INC. It is still in the original box. But nothing came with it in the way of papers, instructions, warranty or anything. How could I get some information about this engine. It is the A.S.P. 40 R/C . I bought it in 1988. Thanks!
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That is a good engine, believe it or not. Just be sure to use fuel with some castor oil in it.
I'm not sure if they made both a ringed version and an ABC version. All of the ones that I saw were ABC. With that said, if it does not have a piston ring, don't worry about a prolonged break-in. Just run it in a rich two-cycle and it will be fine. They are fairly powerful engines, even by today's standards.
12-08-2005 | 11:38 PM
#3
RE: Old Engine
The ASP 40's of that era were very robust and were ABC type. They were very popular among our club members then and was the standard engine first used in our Sig Kougar racing class. When the 46 came along it became the standard.
They were screamers and very powerful engines that ran right out of the box, and performed best when fed 15% fuel with a castor/syn blend on a 9x7 or 10X6 props.
Karol
They were screamers and very powerful engines that ran right out of the box, and performed best when fed 15% fuel with a castor/syn blend on a 9x7 or 10X6 props.
Karol
12-09-2005 | 12:03 AM
#5
RE: Old Engine
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
HI: I have a ASP .61 ABC engine....how do they run? It looks good. Thanks Capt,n
HI: I have a ASP .61 ABC engine....how do they run? It looks good. Thanks Capt,n
I have a ringed 75 which is quite a stump puller too. Sometimes the carb barrels can be a bit coarse but nothing that a dose of emery and some elbow grease can't cure.
The trick to getting the big ones to run well is no or low nitro fuel. Higher nitro fuel most times need an additional head shim to guard against overheating, which can be a problem because of their high comp ratio design.
