Is anybody using a single prop nut instead of six screws on engines larger than 5 cubic inches (82 cc)? I have a brison 5.8 that I am using only one nut, a 3/8 x 24. It does ok but it slips a little from time to time. The six are a lot more trouble as compared to the single nut, but I like them better. How about you? James Goss

We use a 3/8-24 grade 8 BOLTand two 1/4-20s on an 18 cubic inch 30 hp twin..The two small ones are just backups to keep the prop from slipping..The bolt goes through the prop and into the crank..
The style you have is held on by 6 flathead 10-24 screws..You could take out two opposite screws use two longer bolts thru the prop washer and spinner into the hub...NO more slip..Or..Take out all six screws and drill six holes in the prop....
One problem with this setup--you have to check on the bolts more often..When the prop gets compressed the bolts will shear off....

Like you I have used both on various gassers,and I dont feel particularly secure with the single bolt.
I recently got a new ZDZ 60cc and bought the factory drill jig with it ,which makes drilling all those zilly liddle holes much easier,although I dont think I,d like to do this job without a drill press,jig or not.
I kinda like the way the six bolt set up looks,but I tend to like things scalelike anyway....

The prop compression and shearing problem is a wood prop problem. The composite props don't compress like the wood props, so they stay good and tight over hundreds of flights. If you use a wood prop and multiple bolts (or even a single bolt), I would check it frequently for tightness.

FYI, to those that are using a 6 bolt hub may I suggest that you track the prop as you are tightening the shc screws. this will help elimenate any an unsquare condition prop to hub face.

The various comments about wood props are valid.However one bolt or six you must still check occasionally for tightness due to crushing.Composite props dont have this problem,but the cost will ensure we always have wood props.
The tracking idea is a good point too,but this can be handled to a great degree by following a cross tightening pattern and developing a sensitive feel as you do so(the same treatment your cars aluminum wheels should get,although good shops use a torque wrench) and use a small socket set not a large end wrench.I find the wood prop stops crushing after a few careful tightening sessions.