Help setting up G45
#1
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From: St leonards on seasussex, UNITED KINGDOM
I have a new G45 and ned help setting it up! What do I listen for when adjusting the low end and high end and which end is best done first?. Also what is the best oil to mix the pertrol with? Any information would be very appreciated.[8D]
#2
You should start by adjusting the high end. You can use a tach, or your ear. It's not hard. Just lean untill you find peak RPM and then back the needle out (richen) about 1/8th turn--or untill you can noticably hear it slow down about 300--500RPM. You don't want it burbly rich, but since it's new, you want it just a little richer than normal.
Now drop it back to idle and adjust the low end. Lean it slowly and you will hear the engine pick up speed. If it picks up a lot of speed and your idle is now 2800RPM--then adjust your endpoints in the TX and bring it back down to a nice idle. Keep adjusting the low speed by leaning it. I lean untill the engine peaks and then starts to fall off a bit. Now, I back it up (richen) about 1/8th turn. Thats usually real close. Check transition. It should transition to full throttle without hesitation.
Now go back and check the high speed needle again. I've found on several engines that the high speed needs to be richened a bit after I get the low speed set. Usually not more than 1/8 turn. But, it's a good idea to go back ands check the high speed again after your transition is set up well on the low speed.
Which oil? I'd just run any good chainsaw oil in it at 32:1 or 40:1 for about 5 gallons. You don't have to go out and buy overly expensive oils for these engines. For example, I've been using Husqvarna chainsaw oil in my Zenoah engines. I mix it according to the label on the oil bottle. It's 40:1. I've taken the muffler off my G-62 after almost 5 gallons of this mix, and I can't see a single spot of carbon anywhere. The piston is as shiny as the day it left the factory.
I'm also trying Bombardier oil in a Ryobi conversion that I have. It's a mineral oil designed for injection systems on Rotax engines. I don't know if it will lead to problems or not. Thats why I'm using it on a $50 engine.
Just use any oil thats formulated for air-cooled engines. Mix it according to the label on the bottle--not what Zenoah tells you in the instruction manual. Outboard boat motor oil is no good because it's formulated to work in an engine thats water cooled. Our air cooled engines run a bit hotter, and require a different oil thats specifically designed for them.
Now drop it back to idle and adjust the low end. Lean it slowly and you will hear the engine pick up speed. If it picks up a lot of speed and your idle is now 2800RPM--then adjust your endpoints in the TX and bring it back down to a nice idle. Keep adjusting the low speed by leaning it. I lean untill the engine peaks and then starts to fall off a bit. Now, I back it up (richen) about 1/8th turn. Thats usually real close. Check transition. It should transition to full throttle without hesitation.
Now go back and check the high speed needle again. I've found on several engines that the high speed needs to be richened a bit after I get the low speed set. Usually not more than 1/8 turn. But, it's a good idea to go back ands check the high speed again after your transition is set up well on the low speed.
Which oil? I'd just run any good chainsaw oil in it at 32:1 or 40:1 for about 5 gallons. You don't have to go out and buy overly expensive oils for these engines. For example, I've been using Husqvarna chainsaw oil in my Zenoah engines. I mix it according to the label on the oil bottle. It's 40:1. I've taken the muffler off my G-62 after almost 5 gallons of this mix, and I can't see a single spot of carbon anywhere. The piston is as shiny as the day it left the factory.
I'm also trying Bombardier oil in a Ryobi conversion that I have. It's a mineral oil designed for injection systems on Rotax engines. I don't know if it will lead to problems or not. Thats why I'm using it on a $50 engine.
Just use any oil thats formulated for air-cooled engines. Mix it according to the label on the bottle--not what Zenoah tells you in the instruction manual. Outboard boat motor oil is no good because it's formulated to work in an engine thats water cooled. Our air cooled engines run a bit hotter, and require a different oil thats specifically designed for them.
#3
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From: St leonards on seasussex, UNITED KINGDOM
Thanks Rcpilot ,I realy appreciate the trouble you went to, answering my questions. Im new to petrol engines and am on the learning curve




