DA 100 Ignition
#1
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From: Clayton,
NC
Hey guys
I have a DA 100 In a H9 33% Cap and after about sixteen flights the Ignition box went south(whould only fire on one cylinder). Has any one else experienced this problem? Other then that I love this engine!
Doug
I have a DA 100 In a H9 33% Cap and after about sixteen flights the Ignition box went south(whould only fire on one cylinder). Has any one else experienced this problem? Other then that I love this engine!
Doug
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From: Chesapeake, VA
Oh my does this mean DA isn't the god of motors????!!
Seriously guys every motor has problems.
This sounds exactly like what happened to my 3W earlier. Problem in the spark plug caps most likely.
Seriously guys every motor has problems.
This sounds exactly like what happened to my 3W earlier. Problem in the spark plug caps most likely.
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From: Clayton,
NC
Hey Burner
I have the Ignition module mounted with 1/2" foam on the bottom and the top of the module( four sides open ) ziped tied inside the engine box away from the heat of the engine and mufflers.
Doug
I have the Ignition module mounted with 1/2" foam on the bottom and the top of the module( four sides open ) ziped tied inside the engine box away from the heat of the engine and mufflers.
Doug
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From: Winston-Salem, North Carolina
hey stomper where are you located in NC?? I have a cap but the guy put a Zenoah gt80 in it. There is a guy in salisbury that had a DA100 but i havent heard of him having any problems with it until recently. He supposedly just got it back but we dont know what kind of trouble he had with it.. third hand info!!!
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From: Winston-Salem, North Carolina
HOW ABOUT THAT SNOW!!!!!!!! hope they still have the swap meet in burlington this weekend. I hope i can make it home from appalachian today. The zenoah does good. the guy i bought it from said it will hang but it doesnt have enough power to pull out quickly so dont do it down low... but i am not good enough to do it anyways. it is set up just as hanger 9 intended it to be.. later... adam
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From: Clayton,
NC
Get a C&H ignition they are good ignitions.
Man know that I have said that, watch out!
Doug
#16
They all are capable of failure! I just got back a module from C&H which ran a BME 102 suprisingly well on 1 cylinder for 7 flights. It required a new coil, a new plug wire and a gizmo. It was new! now its rebuilt...I have seen them all fail. Even the one on an old ford truck I had.
#17
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Takes 4.8 or 6 volts..Current draw is 180 MA at any rpm...Makes a 5/8 long spark in air...Don't know parameters..I buy the boards drilled, put the components in the right place, and it works...Lifetime guarantee....Been making these for 15 years, same circuit..I ran a G62 with a 15-8 prop once to test it..Ran 13,000 rpm....Most are put in a mount on the back of the engine..
Can be put in a Radio Shack box, about 1x2x3 inches...Not as small as a C&H....Weighs 3 or 4 oz in the plastic box....
Put one on a restored Whizzer motorbike, and a 289 cc methanol twin race engine..And a 216cc Solo single....
They're all good when they work.....With a couple notable exceptions....
Can be put in a Radio Shack box, about 1x2x3 inches...Not as small as a C&H....Weighs 3 or 4 oz in the plastic box....
Put one on a restored Whizzer motorbike, and a 289 cc methanol twin race engine..And a 216cc Solo single....
They're all good when they work.....With a couple notable exceptions....
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From: Hammond,
IN
Another option is to buy a Falkon ignition and cut the caps off and put on a set of Caps from DA. You'd also need the plastic sensor holder. The Falkon ignitions are very reasonably priced. Unfortunately, if you add in $40 worth of DA caps, the total cost is around $150....still less than a DA, 3W. or CH.
#20
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Kris..The url is down, less there than what I just said here...
Timing is the option of the buyer, mechanical link, syncro spark, or fixed..They all get to 28 degrees BTDC at full throttle, Just at different times..Mechanical is linear, direct connection to the carb..Syncro is electronic, full advance at 4000 rpm...Fixed is just that..Small engines under 3 cubes don't really need any retard for starting....
Timing is the option of the buyer, mechanical link, syncro spark, or fixed..They all get to 28 degrees BTDC at full throttle, Just at different times..Mechanical is linear, direct connection to the carb..Syncro is electronic, full advance at 4000 rpm...Fixed is just that..Small engines under 3 cubes don't really need any retard for starting....



