nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

I am going to build an 85 inch 16-17 pound (RTF) 3D bird
To be different and try a perhaps just as good or better motor as the norm,I have chosen a Taurus 52.There is a small thread goin on somewhere,could not find it,but read it all before.Is there any recent evaluations problems or good news on this motor under high demand flying styles.I have read good,but would love to hear some more true experiences before I pick up the phone and spend my savings.
Thanks

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

I think you will be extremely happy with it. I had 1 in a 16 pound WH Edge and it was a great motor. Lots of power. My buddy now owns it and I still get to fly it no compliants.

tkg

My Feedback: (1)

I got one and its a keeper. Its in a Kange Texas Hurricane @16lb. Even at 5400ft I have unlimited vertical, it won't jump out of a hover but it will accelerate quickly out of one.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

Overall looks,ease of handling,mounting and starting,reliablity is all there?
I will be checked for noise and wonder if the stock exhaust will do on the right prop.Are there optional pipes or cans that will readily bolt on?
Thanks again

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

Pick up the phone and call, you won't be sorry, it's a great engine.

I've got almost 3 gallons through mine, it is easy to start, runs great, and has awesome power. What more could you want.

This is my first gas engine, and most everyone else at my field is running DA, so to be a little different I went with the Taurus.

Just about every time I go to the field I get a compliment on the performance. Every time I go to the field they ask "whatcha got in that thing?" and almost every time they say "huh, never heard of a Taurus, I'll have to check them out."

If I was to do it again, I'd buy the Taurus again.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

I guess Bill will be getting a phone call soon

torqmeister

Call Bill. You won't be sorry.

Kweasel

My Feedback: (29)

Its the only one left that uses an industrial crank. At least you won't be an R&D guinea pig, and you will never have to send it back.

T-one

Nitro wing, the stock Pitts wrap around registers 94/96 dbs with a 22x10 XOAR @7000 30 inches above a concrete slab. To my knowledge no one measures dbs over a hard surface(which is the worst possible condition)

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

A phone call is going out on Tuesday morning to set my order in motion

T-one

Thank you, I might add that we started measuring sound over concrete when we were in the business of making custom mufflers years ago.We will be looking forward to your call.
We are on eastern (confusing)time.Anytime after 9 a.m.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

The motor has arrived,and is looking good.It smells like gasoline
2007 is going to be Great [8D]

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

I have taken a break over the months,but am back at the table,looks like I am bolting that baby on to the Extra 300 tonite

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I just recently was able to get mine up and flying. There were some intital teething pains, seems that the ignition timing was set wrong but it still flew the Edge well. Came home and after discussing it with Bill I went out and checked the timing. Yep, not quite right. Re-set the timing and went flying the next day. WOW!! GREAT performance. I'll post a copy of the e-mail I sent to Bill after the timing change if you'd like.

If you have any questions about methods for attaching the ground strap let me know.

Steve

My Feedback: (54)

I like mine.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

Hey sweet guys
Silversurfer,I'd appreciate a copy of the discussion.I am a ways away from firing it up,but everything helps.
Yeah the groundstrap,I was gonna put it on the engine mounting bolts..but was gonna check the papers or on here first.
Also prop mounting,this is my first gas motor and the mounting and drilling is a new method to me.If you have time maybe sent me a link or a few wise words on proper sequence.Thanks
Edit:
Actually the whole set up is new to me,so some guidance on wiring and plumbing is greatly appreciated.I dont wanna mess with safety and sucess.
There is no real hurry,as the airframe has a bit of massaging left to do.Thanks in advance to anyone that can chime in with some experience and hints.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

No problems.

The guide for drilling the prop is the front hub that comes with the engine. It's a lot harder than the rest of the engine and it's intended to be the drill jig per Bill at Taurus. Setting the prop alignment is actually pretty easy. Bring the engine up on compression. No ignition or electic stuff needs to be connected up yet. Now place the prop on the pilot shaft in the 2 o'clock/7 o'clock position. You may have to ream the prop hole out to 10mm for it to fit over the pilot shaft. Use a prop reamer, not a drill.

Now that the prop is in the beginning of the intended flip position, use a Sharpie marker to make a mark on the engine prop hub and the prop that align. Without moving the hub, remove the prop. Place the front hub over the pilot shaft and line up the holes in the two hubs without moving the engine hub. When the holes line up make another mark on the front hub that aligns with the one already on the engine hub. Remove the front hub, again without turning the engine hub.

Now place the prop back on the engine, lining up the marks. Place the front hub over the prop, again lining up the marks. If you have one use a G/P dead centering tool to mark one of the holes in the hub onto the prop. Remember which hole and how it related to the alignment marks. Drill that hole using the front hub to drill through the prop. Insert a 1" 8-32 screw in the hole to keep the prop and hub fixed in alignment and drill the rest. Be sure to drill the prop from the back to front, not front to back. Keeps the bolts from pinching for some reason. Note in the picture that the hub and prop are bolted together using a 10mm nut, bolt, and washers. You don't want things moving.

Yes, I know the prop picture shows the prop set to be drilled from the front. I do that with the first hole then roll it over and do the rest, re-drilling the first hole when all the rest are done. The first hole will have that 1" 8-32 screw in it to tie the prop and hub positions together.. Easier to hit the right spot the first time that way. Thanks for that tip, Ralph TK.

Regarding the pictures of the engine head. The engine case is often a poor ground and may not work. I mount my ground straps directly to the top engine fin in a location that will not wrap the ground wire around anything. I drill the top fin for a 6 or 8-32 screw to slip fit into the hole. The fin material is soft and brittle so it doesn't take much effort to drill though. Drill the hole in a location that will not be able to penetrate into the combustion chamber. That's the reason for the engine head side view. This engine is a Brison but the principle is the same. You can clearly see where you can safely drill a hole without hitting anything underneath. Go slow and easy. No reason to hurry and try to force the drill bit. It will happen quick enough. DO NOT DRILL THE HOLE WERE THE ONE IS ON THE BRISON ENGINE!!!! That's in caps to make sure it's seen and understood. I'm not yelling,... really.

Now that the hole is in place it's a simple matter to use a short screw, hex nut, 2 flat washers and green Locktite to keep it all together forever. The reason for the green Locktite instead of other types is because you can put it on the nut after assembly where it will weep down into the threads. That way the contact between the ground strap and the head remains uncontaminated from Locktite. Engine heat sets the green pretty darn good. Not the ideal use for green Locktite but it works extremely well. It's designed for finer threads than American Standard. The last picture is the strap attached to the Taurus head. I was checking for piston top dead center for timing purposes at the time of the picture.

One other thing. Do not use the gasket that came with the muffler. Matter of fact, don't use a gasket on any gas engine muffler if you want it to stay attached. Go down to the hardware or auto parts store and pick up a tube of Permatex "Ultra Copper" and some red Locktite. Red is for coarse threads and will handle fairly high heat applications. Apply a thin bead of that on the face of the muffler flange, insert the bolts and wshers through the guide holes in the muffler, apply some red Locktite to the bolts, and install the muffler. Acetone will remove excess Ultra Copper that squeezes out while it's still wet. After it dries you have to cut and peel it off. Better to do while wet. The muffler installation is now complete and should stay attached a long time. Much longer than it would have with the gasket. The engines' heat cycles expands and contracts the metals and the gasket eventually gets blown out, making for a loose or lost muffler when the screws get knocked out from the muffler banging against them. The Permatex is much, much better.

3DDino

HERES MY .02
IVE TS52 FOR 8MS NOW
IVE TO FLIP 40+- TIMES CHOKE-ON MID THROTTLE TO PRIME IT AND ANOTHER 6 SLAPS TO START IT
SUBSEQUENT STARTS NEED 10 FLIPPINGS CHOKE CLOSED MID THROTTLE TO PRIME IT AND 5 SLAPS TO START IT
NEVER 1 FLAMEOUT ENCOUNTERED
ENGINE WEIGH IS MODERATE AND ILDLING VIBRATIONS ARE MODERATE
THROTTLE RESPONSE --- FAST
AFTER SALES SERVICE UNKNOWN BECAUSE DOESNT NEED ONE YET
POWERWISE, STEADY PULLOUT WITH 16LBS PLANE AT 0' ASL
I THINK MY PRIMING/ STARTING METHOD IS WRONG BECAUSE I DONT SEE ANYONE ELSE HAVING THIS DIFFICULTY . CAN SOMEONE HELP PLEASE
THX

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

First, please turn off the Caps lock. Over here all capital letters represent someone shouting at someone else. It's too early for you to be angry Thanks.

First a question before we move forward. Do you have the ignition turned on when you are flipping the prop on choke? I'll be back a bit later to check the answer and we'll go from there.

captinjohn

Just squirt a small shot of fuel in carb to prime. Have choke about 1/3 open and throttle set at fast idle. It should start in 2-3 flips and stay running. As it warms up open choke all the way. I have found that correct prime, throttle setting and choke setting is made first....ALL engines will start very good and stay running. Best Regards Capt.n BEST REGARDS TO ALL!!!

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

For those that have a choke servo that will work.

For those with a mechanical, hand operated choke it's a horrible idea. You may end up reaching through the prop when it's turning to open the choke!! No good!!!

Better for those with a mechanical choke, and IMO those with a sevo operated choke to do things a bit differently.

1) Choke the engine, making sure the choke is fully closed.

2) Set throttle trim to full open.

3) Set throttle stick to full closed.

4) Ignition on.

5) Flip prop until engine pops and stops.

6) Choke fully open, idle trim full open, throttle full closed.

7) Ignition still on.

8) Flip prop until engine starts.

9) Warm up engine at high idle.

10) After 40-60 (+/_ depending on O.A.T.) second high idle warm up, confirm mixture appears correct.

11) Lower idle trim to desired idle rpm level.

12) Go fly!

I have a feeling that 3DDino does not have the choke fully closed and the ignition off when he's trying to start the engine. Unusual for the Taurus 52 to take more than 6-10 flips for the engine to be primed if everything else is correct on a relatively (above 58-60 degrees F.) warm day. On colder days it will take more. You won't know it's primed unless the engine pops and stops. Doing it with the ignition off sets the stage for engine flooding.

mglavin

My Feedback: (31)

Sounds like the low speed needle is a tad lean to me???

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Could be that too if the needles had been moved much from the time it was first obtained. Typically they are set just a little rich when they go out, but the humidity in Malaysia is a lot higher than what we see on the West Coast.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

This came to me a little while ago from TKG. Thanks Terry, great tip!!

The throttle lever on the carb is simple and effective, being a converted nylon steering arm. Most Walbros come with one type of tab or lever that we can't make use of on our planes without modification, and having the manufacturer provide something easy to use is a pretty good deal. Some manufacturers leave the design of the throttle level up to the buyer's imagination.

To assure the security of the throttle lever it's a good idea to thread the hole in the end of the throttle shaft to accept a short 4-40 screw. Using the screw and a flat washer to lock down the throttle lever makes for a very secure throttle. Not much work for a lot of assurance.

wingburner

My Feedback: (17)

Silversurfer, i'm interested in why or how the timing was out...Is Bill perhaps making some timing changes?