freebird1

I tried the 1/4 and they where to large, but I did not have the 6mm on hand. Thanks RCIGN1, I think I will call you the sachs master.

abacro

Freebird a bit of advice for you. If infact this engine is from a BYRON WHICH I'M ALMOST POSITIVE IT IS. If it had Byrons purr power muffler motor mount on it,then 1 of the muffler holes has a small thread plug in it that needs to be removed. Once removed the normal thread size is 10/32 and available at any hardware store.

Happy Flying

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Nope, muffler thread size in the Sachs cylinder is 6mm...The small plug was probably 8-32...
6mm is .236, 10-32 is .190.....There is no 10-32 tapped hole anywhere on a Sachs cylinder.
Sachs cylinders are metric, hold down bolts are 6mm, exhaust bolts are 6mm, carb insulator bolts are 5mm..spark plug hole is 14mm....
You CAN put a 1/4x28 bolt in a really loose 6mm hole...Works for a while.....

abacro

My mistake Rich,ur correct it's 6mm i went and rechecked mine! Sry for the miss info

freebird1

Once again RCIGN1, you are ringt!

thanks!!!!!

freebird1

I do not think that my engine is a Byron engine (pur power one). I think it is a sachs maybe one that has already been done up from the byrons one.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

The engines were not made by Sachs, they were made using Sachs parts...There are only 2 engines that use that style crankcase, A&M and Walker....A&M started out using Sachs cranks and changed to their own..The last 4.2 A&Ms had a cantilever crank...Walker took over when A&M went out...Walker engines used Sachs cranks in all the sizes...Walker cases can be identified by the bottom case bolts..The A&M cases were an exact copy of the chainsaw cases..The 2 bottom case bolts are not parallel to the top 2...When Walker started making cases they made the two bottom bolts parallel....
Byron apparently used both sources. Byron screwed a 2 piece cover on the front of the case t0 hide the mechanical spart advance....
Byron made some hubs to run their 3 blade plastic props...They came with a puller so the hub could be changed to use a regular prop.....

freebird1

RCIGN1, It would appear that mine is not a Walker as the crank botls are not in line. Mine does have Mahle on the block. My gusess is it is a late A&M. I just hope that it has the sachs parts.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Look at the con rod, copper plated is Sachs, steel or aluminum is A&M....

freebird1

Muffler fit perfect. I had to run her. I ran it with the low end out 2 1/2 turns and the high at the same. It seemed like a real rich setting, but the engine seemed to be running hot. I checked the temp and it was running 170 to 195 while at idle. I was using a 50-1 mix. Any info on the proper break in is very greatful. The engine hand starts very very well. I think I am going to be very happy with it. So I did not run it any more until I have the correct break in info. Thanks gang!!!!

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

If you ran it, it's broken in. Put it in a plane, tune it and fly it. 50:1 will be fine, as long the oil you are using is designed to run at that mix.

freebird1

TLH101, I do not think I have ever broke an engine in on a test stand. I have always said break them in the air. This is the largest gasser I have ever owned and I just want to make sure. I use SYN kloz mix after about a gal. I use 20 80 mix to set the piston in with for the first gal. I just want to make sure I have the low and high set rich for the first running.

freebird1

I have never really checked a gas engine for temp. what is the normal range for a 70cc engine to run temp range.

T-one

Don't worry about it,run Stihle 50:1 or other good oil and watch the spark plug for tan color which iwhat you want.