WHAT WOULD BE THE MOST LIKELY REASON FOR A BRAND NEW ZDZ 60 CC NOT PULLING GAS INTO THE CARB WHEN ITS CHOKED AND FLIPPED SEVERAL TIMES?
THERE`S NO RESTRICTION FROM THE TANK, I`VE MADE SURE OF THAT AND THE TANK IS VENTED. RCM 243

Can you cover the entire carb opening with your hand and then flip it? If it's still not drawing fuel it could be either the air impulse hole is clogged or there is an air leak between the carb and crankcase. Could also be a clogged screen or passageway in your carb. I think if you do a search here on RCU you'll find lots of suggestions.
Good Luck,
Sam

Prime the carb. A dry carb has a hard trime sucking any fuel that first time you try and fire it up.

Pull both needles out. Squirt fuel in the needle holes and let it run down inside the passages and holes in the carb. Maybe do it a second time. Put the needles back in.

Now choke and start normally.

rcm243,

We just went through this at a friends house. His G-62 would just draw a little fuel and a lot of bubbles and if it did start it was only on the fuel that we managed to get up to the carb and then it would die. It ended up being something simple at the fuel tank. He did not have enough brass tubing inside the tank for the fuel supply line to fit on and it did not have a wire or fuel line clip and it came off. We only filled the tank up about half way and I guess the brass fuel tube was just barely submerged. We probably wouldn't have caught this problem if we had filled the tank all the way up. It would have been bad new to fire it up and take off and at mid tank the engine would die.

Some good suggestions already given, but one other is to make sure the choke is fully closed. When cold the rotary valve setup doesn't pull fuel quite as well if the line is empty, it's got to have that choke plate completely closed.

For what it's worth I run mine dry when I'm done for the day so the fuel lines are empty the next time out. Mine seem to pull fuel better if the throttle is opened all the way with the choke closed when they are cold and the line is empty. Usually I can close the choke, full throttle, ignition off and flip them five times. Then I close the throttle to idle and flip it until I hear the "snotty nose" sound, that's usually another three to five flips, then choke off, ignition on and it will usually go the first flip.

Works ok, but leaves too much room for guess work. Throttle closed, throttle trim full open. Choke closed, ignition on. Flip till it barks, then open choke, leave the throttle lever and trim where they were, and flip till it starts. Hard to ever flood that way, and never starts at faster than a high idle.

I don't monkey with my throttle trim once it's set...

I'vet tried the choke on ignition on and flip till it barks like the DA guys do around here, it works but usually shows some signs of flooding and takes 4 or 5 flips after it barks to start, then it's loaded up.

Once they've been run and the lines filled, cold takes 1 flip choke on, throttle idle, ignition off, then choke off, ignition on and it goes 1st or second flip. If it's warm all you have to do is turn on the ignition and usually 1st flip.

All engines will develop a personality, but this method seems to work well on all three of my ZDZ's and is just a variation of the manufacturer's suggested method.

a couple of other things to think about
the pulse hole from the engine is not involved in choking sequence - block it and test it if you like.
choking problems are sometimes related to the model # of the carb -or simply - a problem child carb.
But in a sequence
any engine
setup engine n tank and carb so you can see them all -if possible
put half a tank of fuel in the carb
completely block the carb inlet with a big thumb-whatever
flip the engine easily and watch for fuel coming up the line
No fuel?
fill the tank and repeat test
if fuel now draws -you probably have a teeeensy leak at the clunk line attachment - the fuel delivery lines must be bubble tight
still no fuel
check th filler -if you have one and throw it away
these friggen things seep air and you loose the bubble tight line to the carb.
THAT line must be bubble tite.
Once you are certain the linen tank and a Teed filler line(the best) are all bubble tight -
then - go to the carb.
If it won't draw fuel whilst simply easily flipping -
something is wrong. even with a litle choke plate leak they should pull fuel.
check the screen - -
line sizes are not important EXCEPT use smaller lines to eliminate possibility of air leaks at connections - 1/8" is plenty large.
so is "small".
fil tank with 32-1 fuel and use this as break in and forever mixture any good synthetic or Pennsoil aircooled two cycle

Have you had the carb off the engine?
if so did you put it back the same way?
have you had the throttle plate arm removed -if so - did you keep the original throttle plate rotation?
Which model carb is on the engine? Bing? Walbro? Tillotson?

Had the same problem with ZDZ 60 with the Bing Carb,Engine in a CH double vision.Being it is hard to get the tank close to engine,I would crank my arm off trying to get fuel to engine and could very seldom get it started,My solution was a friend of mine and myself measured the distance from tank to carb and then took engine out of plane and laid out on the bench as it was in the plane,We found out with the choke in the fully closed position it would only suck the fuel about 3" up the line,Looking for the problem we seen that the choke did not fully block the inlet,What I done was remove the choke plate and soldered the side where there was about a 1/16 opening then I had to file it down till I got it fully closed,Put it back together and presto problem fixed,Would suck fuel about 11" with a couple flips,Now no more hard starts,
Good Luck Bob