Has anybody hooked up their BME 50 choke to a servo? The choke snaps into the open position and it seems like it would stall a servo as it tried to drive it into the closed position. Also, the lever on the choke is not oriented for a straight linkage to a servo in the fuselage, I was thinking of removing it (grind it off?) and attaching a nosegear arm instead. Any tricks to all this?

Peter

If it's a Walbro carb, take off the choke plate, slowly pull the brass rod out with the carb facing down. A small ball and spring should fall out of one end. If not, hook it out with a piece of wire. reassemble and tighten the choke plate quite tight. You might want to slide a spring on so it's between the carb body and the choke arm to stop vibration from wearing the choke plate.

Thanks Gord, that was easy to do.

Peter

Birdnest
were you able to make the chole work off a servo?
what did you do about the position of the original choke arm?
not sure what to do my self..
Paul

Did this also. Very easy to do. INterms of a choke arm, I cut the old one off and replaced it with a rudder control arm from the boating section of my LHS. Its like it was made for this!!
Mark

what size is the shaft for the choke.
tower has an item which looks just like a control arm for a nose wheel .
this one is for boats though. it's intended for s 3/16 shaft.
not sure if it the hole is too large though.
THIS ONE

The choke shaft is 3/16. A nosewheel steering arm of appropriate size will also work.

Paul, I used a Goldberg nosewheel steering arm, it looks like the one on the throttle but a little bigger (I like the way it looks. Symmetry!) Grind off that worthless metal arm with a dremel grinding wheel. Drill out the nose gear to 3/16" and fit it over the choke shaft. Position the plastic arm where you want it, then take it off and file a flat for the set screw. I took the choke mechanism out to work on it, you unscrew the choke plate, then the shaft comes out, but be very, very careful not to lose the tiny ball bearing and spring which can fall out onto the floor or into the carb. keep the throttle closed while you take the choke out slowly.

When I re-assembled everything, I put the spring and ball bearing back in place so that the choke snaps into open and closed positions. Without these parts, the choke plate rattles around. The servo drives the choke easily because the plastic nose gear arm is so much longer and provides lots of leverage.

The servos for the choke and throttle get mounted in the top left front corner, canopy compartment, they are stacked on their sides. They hook up with plastic sullivan pushrods.

Peter