soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Rather than hijack the What Gas engine for DP 330L???? thread I thought I'd put info here.

I got my LS-52cc about a month ago, and love it. It's burnt a little over 2 1/2 gallons with it so far, I've never used a starter on it, you choke it until it coughs, usally 3 or 4 flips, then with the choke off and the throttle just above idle 3 or 4 flips and it's running. I'm running a Zinger 20x10 cut down to 18 1/2x20 for break-in with 25 to 1 oil I got 7400rpm with 1400rpm idle without touching the carb adjustments yet. When I went to 32 to 1 I picked up another 400 rpm top end, now I'm at 40 to 1 mix and it sounded like I picked up more rpm, if remembered to bring the tach next time I would give you the numbers. The engine transisions without any stumbling, runs great in midrange without any burbbling. At full throttle it's taking my 16 pound plane straight up as high as I can control it, I think it will hover a 16 pound plane, but my plane isn't that type plane, too small of control surfaces. The engine is silky smooth, 100% reliable, not a dead stick yet, comes with mufflers that work and are small, I like it so much I order another one. This engine has become my favorite engine, and I have over 70 engines. Try it you'll like it, it's a keeper. The engine calls for a 20 to 22 inch prop which I'll change to if I ever break the prop that's on it now. I'm going to start adjusting the high speed needle valve after a couple more tanks of 40 to 1 mix.



This where I got mine. [email protected]

Here's some videos:

http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....0c9b8ae175f2d3

http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....b7e46540e2b0cf

http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....e6e4666e6dd536

http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....7aec8796964cf8

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

Well I guess my questions would be... if you have had over 70 engines how many have been gas?

You should do yourself a favour and adjust your high-end properly asap. By running on factory settings you are most likely running it way rich and causing unneccessary carbon buildup, not too mention on the path for a fouled plug and / or a frozen ring.

After you adjust your engine properly you will probably have to throw out that prop and get atleast a 20 or a 22. Most 50cc engines swing a 22" with ease. I highly recommend you get a good prop such as a Xoar, NX, Vess, or something like that.. performance will be night and day.


enjoy

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

sinergy

Good points, I guess I still have a nitro mentality. I've got the 20x10 prop, I'll put it on and tweek this engine out, I was already happy with the power but with gas I guess I'm not really doing it any favors by running it rich and so lightly loaded.

My engines range from Paw .033 diesel to Saito 450R3 in fuel, but I only have 4 gassers Ryobi 31cc, Fuji 64a, LS-52 and LS-100, just one Ryobi for the last 3 years. I tweeked the Ryobi after about two flights I figured I didn't have much to loose, but it's like a Timex watch, just keeps on ticking. The LS-52 replaced the Ryobi in my plane, I didn't even have to rebalance the plane, but now I have almost 3 times the power. My LS-100 replaced a DA-50R in a Lanier Yak 54, but I haven't flown it yet due to the weather, just ran a couple tanks threw it in the backyard.

Don M.

My Feedback: (5)

It sounds like a good engine but get it leaned out ASAP. I stuck the ring in 2 gasser from running 40:1 and now run 65:1 synth. Other than a bit of extra oil for the first gal. I found there really is no break in period for a gasser ( as in running rich ).

Those rpm #'s with an 18.5 X 10 are terrible, my single cly. Brison 2.4 will spin an 18 - 10 over 8000. That engine should spin a 22 - 10 with no problem.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

OK, I'll lean it out and put that 20x10 on, I guess I've got a lot to learn with the gassers With the Ryobi I backed into doing it right, I need all the power so I tweeked it out right away and it's run great for 3 years.

Don M.

My Feedback: (5)

Is this the same engine ? They are calling this one a 50cc Pro. Does it come with mufflers ? Veeeery interesting price. I just paid $625 for a single 52cc.



http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemid=253935

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Yes, it's really 50.6 cc, it uses the same jugs as on the LS-26 just two of them. I got the first one in country, it doesn't have the pretty gold/red jugs. I guess they just hadn't figured out the best name for it yet, I just call it My Favorite Engine. I'd call it a 52, 26x2=52 and there's lots of 50s out there this is a 50 with 2 cylinders so 52 sounds like a good Sales Mark to me.

I'm warming up now, but I'm playing with it in the backyard with a 20x10 with 40 to 1 mix, readings to follow.

Yes it comes with mufflers.

pe reivers

That engine also is sold by Goodray, called GRpro50.
I have one on my testbench

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

I ran the motor today in the backyard with three props:

20x10 turns 6600rpm.

20x8 turns 7000rpm.

18.5x10 7600rpm.

Idles 1300rpm but I like it at 1500rpm.

I uploaded a video of starting it, my wife said I better get it righ the first time it's cold out here, I did.

http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....e=&category=mr


BTW the plane is missing a wheel because I used a 5mmx60mm bolt as an axle and after 3 years it broke, and they are hard to find here, the windscreen is out because that's where my camera went for my inflight videos, and the battery is dead because when the axle broke the prop stopped and I forgot to turn the igition off. My planes usally don't have this many things wrong.

Don M.

My Feedback: (5)

Tell your wife I need some pictures taken too. It was -36 here today -52 with the windchill.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Two pictures of my installation. I used a piece of 3x3x3 aluminum stock .125 thick. I mounted the ignition above the mount, and the batteries to the bottom of it. The choke is the little arm at the bottom, it stays either full open or closed, the throttle I used a Dubro 5/32 nosewheel steering arm cut down.

pe reivers

Could you please post a picture like picture 2 with engine in top dead centre? I would like to see the magnet position in relation to the sensor. I have a feeling mine is set a bit too early.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

OK

The picture with the mag near the sensor is where the hall effect sensor fires, always have the sparkplugs in when the ignition is on or you'll ruin the ignition.

The second picture is TDC. The edge of the mag to the sensor is ~12mm. My measurements put the timing at about 32* BTDC, so I guess the box retards the timing at slow speed.

I found you want just a tiny bit of throttle when hand flipping it to start it.

pe reivers

Thanks a lot. I see your prop drive has markings. Mine has none. In top dead center the magnet just is past the sensor bracket end. That is a good reference point which I will shoot for.

pe reivers

On closer inspection of my GRpro50, I did have a thin marker line, that is central with the sensor at top dead center. That is a whopping 45 degrees when checking with the degree wheel. However, when flipped slightly fast, the ignition retards very well. I needed no glove and there was not a hint of kickback..
Factory needle settings are weird. Idle needed 1/2 turn out, Full load still is at 3.5 turn factory setting, but probably can be a lot leaner when I am out in the field.
Starting is as with any gas engine. Flip with choke on until it runs. Stop engine, open choke, and it starts the first flip.
A nice little bugger, now fitted with two MTW TD30 cans. Runs like a turbine.

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

The specs say rear reed induction...The pictures show the carb on a reed block on the case..Does he know what he has, or is it a misprint ?

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

It has 2 reeds directly under the carb.

Mine runs turbine like also, I love the engine, I just bought my second one. I never turn the needles in to find how far out they are, I just started it and adjusted to get the best proformance, and found it was at the factory settings?

Who makes/ sells these?

What prop/rpms combs have you measured?


I give this motor TWO THUMBS UP!

seagull extra

My Feedback: (12)

I was seriously considering one of these engines for my great planes Cristen Eagle but I didn't think the cowl would clear the plug caps. I wish when they design these engines the would slant the dam plugs towards the exhaust side rather than the intake side as the motor would fit much better into most planes this way. It isn't only GR-Pro but most engines on the market seem to slant the plug towards the intake side.

pe reivers

I wondered about that too
Anyway, the GRpro50 is identical to soarich's engine
The carb is updraw in configuration, with a flat split reed on raised rubber seats vulcanized to a steel mounting plate. The reed dome looks like made for a V-reedblock configuration.
After running in, I am tempted to fit a MVVS reed V-block and see what happens.

Edit:
@soarich--
I run mine with a 3W 20x11 prop. This prop, though it has a high load factor, still seems small, but 20" is the largest I can accomodate in the plane. With larger pitches I will run into torque plane reactions and lateral instability, which is not good for towing duties.

rc_cdi

RE::

pe reivers

RC-CDI, Thanks for the picture.
I have the marker line central below the ignition hall sensor with the piston at top dead center.
Question:
Can this ignition be used with 5 cells NiCad?

rc_cdi

The temperature is lower than <-1 to be allowed to use 6V(5cell). Thetemperature is higher than >1 to use 4.8V.

pe reivers

Thanks.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Wow, I never even thought to ask that, I just put a 5 cell nicad in it, luckily it's been really cold.

rc_cdi

If can satisfy the ignition request, does not affect high speed, or recommends uses 4.8V quite to be reliable