jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

I checked the plug cap and it was not fully seated. I will try again today to see if this solved the problem. From how much it moved to seat I believe this will solve the issue. This cap is different from the first one with the old ignition box.

Thanks for the info. Jim

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

Success when I pressed on the plug cap it moved almost 3/8" and fully seated. I put the bird back to "origional" condition with all the bat's etc in the correct place. The engine fire up almost immediately on hand cranking. Very minor adjustment to idle mixture had it running what I would call perfect. Remember in the problem solving I did move the needles from the factory setting.

I did notice one thing while running. All electronics were rock solid except for the right elevator. With the engine running I placed my hand on the elevator servo and could feel the gears clicking from a stripped gear. Apparently when the engine ran in reverse and broke off the tail it jammed the hitec 635 HB servo and stripped out the gears. Now I am waiting on new gears and 2 new futuba metal gear high torque bb servos.

Summary of the suppliers:

I know many want to know about support.

Paul from PRCMODEL was nothing short of GREAT and a special thank you to him. I would not hesitate to purchase a new CCRC 50 from him.

MAXFORD sold me the engine. Communication (email) was prompt once the problem was determined. They had a individual (Matt) who test flew the engines before they sold them. He was the one that told me there had been many early failures on the ignition module on the 50 cc motors in testing. This information was very helpful. The problem has now been resolved and the modules are reliable. From the symptoms I had bought one of the early modules. I mailed them the module and within 7 days received a new module. I was also informed they were limited in parts support for the engine.

Valley RC. Really learned about them in this thread and I would not hesitate to use them for support one the engine. I appreciated their offer to help.

My summary of the CCRC 50:

Given that I bought one of the first engines sold in the US I was disappointed that there was an ignition problem.
It took a while to finally resolve the issue but it was resolved and this problem could happen to any engine.

The engine overall is easy to start (one of the easiest I own) has good strong power, (hasn't flown yet as waiting servos)

Parts are and service are available if you know where to go.

It would have been great to know in advance where to find parts support.
I did not know we could use the ccrc website direct for support.
The instructions that came with the engine could have added these details.

But would I buy the engine again. Given I haven't flown it yet. Yes.

Jim

dematel

Hello Jimcork . My name is Marcel and I have one of those CRRC 26 cc engines. I'm happy to hear that there is a chance for those engines because I have been trying to start mine but without luck so far.

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

Marcel one thing I noticed on mine was that with the plug in the holder but out of the engine I could turn the engine over and watch the spark. The spark was white. I have been working on engines since 1951 and all the ones that would run had BLUE spark. The blue color, so I have been told, is generated from the very high energy discharge at the spark that produces a tiny bit of ozone which provides the blue. If there isn't enough energy in the spark it can vary from yellow to white.

You might want to try this on yours to see the spark and color. Of course don't get shocked and you might want to check the plug gap. If you got one of the early engines you might have a bad ignition module as I had. Jim

dematel

I just got out of my garage after 5 hours. My fingers are red from the prop but I did not get it running at all. I think that my spark plug gets white light. Is it a ignition? I got my engine 2 weeks ago from rconlysite. It has new front hub ( the thicker one. ) I'm using 4.8 V 2700 bat. Shpuld I try 6V ? Thank you for helping. Marcel

Planeclothes

My Feedback: (1)

I am glad your problem was finally solved. When you mentioned what your radio was doing I knew it had to be the cap. I remember how frustrated I was trying to find a solution to the radio glitching, getting all kinds of suggestions and none of them worked, until someone told me to make sure the cap was all the way in. The minute I pushed that thing in really hard and heard it snap, I knew that was it. About your stripped servo, I would not use anything but metal gears with gas engines.

Planeclothes

My Feedback: (1)

Marcel, try a 6V battery, that's what I am using.

dematel

I will try 6V . I just ordered one and it should be on it's way. By the way is this a good baterry ? ( Hobbico HydriMax 5C 6V 2000mAh NiMH Flat 4/5A Rx U Pana ) from Tower H... ? ( I hope it is not advertising to write it like this ? ? ? )

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

I had been using metal gear servo's but quit after buying 4 that sounded like a coffee grinder due to the poor gear fits. They weren't futuba. I have ordered 2 futuba metal gear bb high torque servos.

Marcel if you see a white spark,, and the 6V doesn't solve your issue I think you have ignition module issues. I would call the place that sold it and see what they can do. Otherwise you can purchase a new module for around $40. It is possible the pickup is bad but I don't think you would have spark if it were. If you have a weed eater, blower etc,, you can pull the plug and pull those over to see the blue spark to compare with your engine. Best of luck. Jim

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

Marcel. mine runs perfectly fine on 4.8v 2000 MnH battery. Contact your dealer about getting your ignition module replaced or repaired. If it's not running on 4.8v it's not going to run on 6v. Be very careful about running a spark with the plug out of the engine. If you allow the ignition to fire without a good ground, you can fry the ignition. Good luck.

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

You are correct about damaging the ignition w/o a ground. It must have a solid ground when you check the spark.

I also agree,, I bought 6 V for mine also and it made no difference. With the new module I went back to 4.8 and it runs great.

dematel

Guys I do not know how I did it but my engine started this morning and I had it run for almost 3 hours (with on and off of course :-) )

It runs great . I had to play with my needle settings but I think I got it. Transmition is still not perfect from iddle to a full throtle but first I want to breake it in and that could actualy get better by it self. So I thing that this engine does not need 6V battery because I'm using 4.5V 2700mAh JR and it runs . I'm still getting brown stuff from my muffler but I think it is ok since I put a lot of oil in to the gas. I can not even say how happy I'm that it works. This is my first gas engine and I'm very excited .

Now I would like to ask you guys how to set up my fuel tank. I was using three lines on my nitro. How many should I use now ? I know that I do not have to connect one to a muffler now so how do I set it up ? Thank you all for your concern and help . You guys are the greatest. :-)))

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

My guess is you didn't choke it enough. Since you have it running,, the ignition is ok.

Choke it watch the fuel to reach the carb. Then crank about 5 times choke fully closed, throttle fully open.

Then open the throttle just above idle, choke off, ignition and it should start in a few cranks.

I use 3 fuel lines, 1 to fill, 1 to vent ,, 1 to carb. I have a cap I plug the fill line for flight.

dematel

Thank you Jim. How does your vent line ends? And where on the airplane ? Marcel

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

I just brought the lines through the fuselage just behind the firewall, cowl. Then they run down to the bottom of the fuselage and are held in place with a cable clamp. If it were a "really Scale" bird I might have just brought them out of the bottom of the fuselage but given I am over 60 and the back doesn't like to bend I made them "easy to use" vs. cosmetically graceful.

Jim

dematel

That realy helped me. Thank you Jim. It is very nice that you are willing to share your knowledge with us. Marcel. :-)))

OkieTrucker

Ok, here is my deal, any input will be greatly appriciated. I have mine in a Funtana, I had a pancake landing/crash in which the prop hub was cracked and the output shaft was slightly bent. Replaced them and reassembled engine. Now I can't get it to start, it wont even "hit". I am thinking the ignition was damaged in the crash as well. Is there any way to check the ignition with a volt meter? Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions.

OK2Fly

wouldn't it be easier to check for a spark?

OkieTrucker

I dont know, thats why I asked

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

Since you crashed one thing is really important. If you replaced the crankshaft and hub make sure the magnet in the hub is in the correct position. IF the piston is fully up at the top the magnet should also be exactly on the top of the hub. This controls when the spark fires. IF it fires at an incorrect time it will be very difficult to start or might not start all.

(I assume here on the 26, the manget is as on the 50cc)

If the magnet is in the correct position you can now check for spark.

In this step the spark plug is out of the engine but in the plug cap and securly touching the engine casing frame.

Insure your ignition battery is fully charged.

I would plug the battery observing the correct polarity directly into the ignition module.

Then rotate the magnet pass the hall pick up to see if you have spark. If there is no spark it is possible you damaged the pickup. This part is screwed to the engine, black and the magnet passed directly under it. If you have no spark I would replace this part. Then repeat the trial to see if you have spark.

I would guess the pick up is damaged since you bent the crankshaft and damaged the prop hub. I assume the ignition module was mounted futher back.

IF the magnet is in the correct place, battery fully charged, and you have a new pick up, then the module would need replacing.

Hope this helps. Jim

OkieTrucker

OK, I checked the magnet for TDC, It is not DIRECTLY under the pick up at TDC, but is very close, I then checked for spark and there is spark, unfortunately due to my lack of experience, i can't tell you "how healthy" it is, but it does spark every time it passes the magnet. I am going to try and run it again tomorrow, who knows maybe there is something small that i missed when trying it today. Thank for the help.

Cliff

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

Cliff look at the color of the spark,, it should have a blue tint. If it is yellow or white it has low voltage.

I suggest you try to run it again because you do have spark.

Just choke it as normal, and make sure it pulls fuel to the carb with the choke on. Then once the fuel hits the carb, crank with full choke on, throttle open,, ignition off to fuel the engine. You might see a drop of fuel drip out of the intake. Then open the choke, set the throttle just a bit above idle and turn the ignition on and see if it starts. My guess is if you have fuel delivery and a charged battery for the ignition choked properly it will run. Best of luck. Jim

OkieTrucker

Thanks again Jim, i will do that tomorrow.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Marcell,
I am glad you recieved your engine from RC Only. I see my credit card has been charged by this PayPal bunch...but no motor. Three weeks.
I have sent two e-mails to them without a response.
Tomorrow I call.
Wish me luck.
Jim

dematel

See the thing is that I did not buy it directly from rc.... I buouht it from ak models . But I found cheep props SY 16x8 on line and it happend to be from rc... site . When I called that guy and gave him my info he sad to me " I have your engine you ordered it from AK... ) So that is how this worked out for me. I guess because I did not pay him directly I got my stuff. Good luck to you Jim . I hope you will get your engine from him. Marcel