well which one would you pick and why
thx for your opinions

There's not a lot of long term history out there on either of them, but it seems to me that the DL50 is cheaper priced, lighter in weight, has better power to weight ratio, is extremely user friendly and just generally seems to be making more waves in the R/C community than the other ... so I'd say the DL50 is the choice. I considered the two, and bought the DL50.

I haven't used a DL50 so I won't comment on it.

I can say the 3MM/TOC53 is a super engine. I've used about 2 gallons in it. It starts easier than any of my top 3 brand name engines. It has more power than two and matches the other. It throttles up and transitions better than all three. The vibration level is lower than all three.

Tough to beat for about $400.....

wow
cloned is better than master , how can that be possible
come on guys --- dont exaggerate
hard to believe
thx

I don't beleive marzo is exaggerating to much here. i have heard quite a few people , here and over at FG speak highly of the 3mm 50cc motor. You have to realize , they are new , and that's one of the reason's why the price is low ( for now anyways) to get their name out there. It kind of goes along the lines of the taurus 52 motor. most everyone would pick a DA 50 over it , mainly because of the name. when the taurus runs like a swiss watch and has more power. Also.....the DA from alot of people is hard to start and hard to keep tuned. I'm sure most people will argue that they are not being tuned correctly , but there sure seems like alot of people have issues with the DA , and not with the taurus or the 3mm. I have heard nothing buyt good things about the 3mm motor , and at $400.00......you can't go wrong. The DL , i can't comment on , because i haven't seen one run. The taurus on the other hand is a lil' beast.....man that motor rips!!



Jeff

I'm not going to go into a which one is better between the two. I agree that the Taurus is the top of the heap with any of the 50cc engines.

As for cloned being better than original? In at least two cases I can say this is true. Some original manufacturers get their products out there, advertise heavily, give a bunch away to top competitors to obtain increased exposure amoung peers, and suddenly they are perceived as "the best". Unfortunately they often fail to eliminate all the deficiencies, or have manufacturing and assembly issues that they don't keep up with. Don't forget that the design, the manufacture, and the assembly are never the same location. I seriously doubt if any two of those operations are ever together at the same place.

So, with one engine the clone addressed and resolved a serious induction issue that has plagued it from the beginning, and the other clone paid attention to detail and eliminated numerous quality control issues that have been a problem forever. This has provided the consumers with a better engine than the originals simply because the cloning manufacturers WANTED to produce a better engine. My question now is, if the new products are better than the originals, are they actually clones or updated and improved technology? Hmmm. Just like the originals, only time will tell us about durability.

As previously stated, none of them, original or cloned, can hold a candle for the Taurus 52 to run by. They'll be left too far behind.

sad to tell my story
ive a ts52 which takes 25 flips to pop and another 10 slaps to run
topflite 22x 6-10 with wot spins at 6300 (checked with 2 tachometers)
nowhere near everybodys' claims
manufacturer tuning and my own tuning of ls/hs needles make no difference
can someone tell me thats all it is or otherwise
thx

i fly at 0' asl
tropical climate
thx

Well #1 get rid of that prop

Sounds like you have either a hole in a line or a faulty carb, or both.

That engine should rip that prop like no tomorrow. a TS-52 can swing a 23 even a 24 prop with ease after broken in. Talk to Bill and get it fixed...

if i were to used a efficient prop the rpm will go down to 5000
then i really would cry
thx

btw i use belray mc-1 1:50 93octane caltex

ya I know that... I was more saying after you get your problem fixed. It's not running right. Call Bill at Taurus


That engine will turn a 22x8 at 7200-7400+ all day long.

There's an old saying in business, the early bird gets the work but it's the second mouse that gets the cheese.

Historically pioneers fail at an astonishing rate, because they are fighting two battles at once. It is very difficult to re-engineer a product once it is released and shipping in significant numbers. Every time you make a change, you have to go back and take care of the people who have the earlier products. This is something that held DA back a lot, they have been responsible enough to retrofit engines that had problems. This is one of the things we pay for in the higher purchase price, great support.

It is really a simple matter to look at a product and find the flaws and make improvements before you produce a new version. The problems come later.

The sign of a competent company is not in getting out a whiz bang new product, it's only the really good ones that can get out a new product while delivering older products and supporting them.

"Going to school" on a competitor's product is done every day in every business.

TF

undefined



WOW!!.......your right , that is pathetic! Dude send that motor back to taurus and have them get it going right. Don't take your taurus motor to a LHS unless one of the guys is a gas motor guru and actually know's how the motor is built. That's like taking your dodge V8 Magnum to a honda dealer and asking him to fix it. You problem with that motor sounds like carburation or possibly a faulty ignition..either way , it's a waste of kmoney just letting it run at about 70% of what it's capable of. AND WHY.......would you want another 50cc motor if the one you have is running like crap? If it's for "second" 50cc bird i could see it , but i wouldn't replace that taurus for any of the other motor's in this thread.

I'm going to build me a 50cc bird later this summer as a little knock around plane , and the 3mm motor is priced very well , and has good number's backing it. I'm going to wait until later this summer to make my decision and see what the longivity of this motor is really like. If it start's getting bad reveiws than i'll plop down an extra $300.00 and get a taurus........but i haven't seen a bad reveiw yet.

Silver,

IMO, of the "top three" I've mentioned, the Taurus is the top of the "top three". My clearcut favorites are Taurus and 3MM/TOC 53...It's a toss-up which is #1 or #2. DA and Brison are closely behind. All are very nice. I've had no major problems with any.

That depends upon the ambient temperature and humidity.

The higher the temp, the lower the peak rpm.


Ed Cregger

3DDino;

Do you have a means of checking the ignition timing? What you describe sounds very much like the timing ring has slipped a little and retarded your timing. You have a CH ignition system so obtaining instructions is quite easy by going to ythe CH website and downloading their full instruction set. You may already have them since they are included with every CH ignition unit shipped. Your location makes returning the engine for a timing check most impracticable and quite expensive.

Set up the protractor provided in the instructions and like the instructions state, use a simple metal rod clamped to the head as a pointer. Remove the spark plug from the engine, keeping the plug in the plug wire and the ground strap in place. Don't turn on the ignition yet, and whenever you do turn it on be absolutely certain that the side of the spark plug base maintains contact with the engine. You do not want the ignition to discrage unless the plug is in contact with the engine!!

Now that the plug is removed and the protractor and rod are mounted on the engine, rotate the prop hub to find the pistons' top dead center position. That will be the location where the piston is at it's highest point inside the cylinder. A dial indicator is the best way but you can get close enough by marking a small stick inserted through the spark plug hole. Do this a gfew times to be reasonable sure you have the right position. Now without rotating the piston, move the pointer you made to the zero position of the protractor that's mounted on the prop shaft. You just determined and marked the starting point of the timing process.

Now, maintaining contact between the plug and the engine, turn on the ignition. Rotate the prop shaft and see where the plug fires relative to the pointer position over the protractor. It should be between 28 and 30 degrees advanced (before) of the zero mark. If it's not, and I strongly suspect it is not, then simply loosen the two set screws in the timing ring and rotate the ring to obtaing the correct timing. Before moving the ring, make a note of how far the timing ring is forward of the crankcase. That's important because the hall sensor has to be placed correctly relative to the magnet and it's possible to have the ring too far back, making for a bad reading with the sensor. If, after moving the ring, you can't get the igniton to discharge, simply move the timing ring forward a mm or two and try again.

One last thing, again. Make sure the spark plug maintains contact with the engine head or case in some manner whenever you turn on the ignition. Failing to do so can fail the ignition. That's the only hard part of the entire process. It's called being careful. It's an easy job and I'm pretty sure that after you check the timing you'll have a completely different engine to play with. Mine was shipped the same way originally and after the correction the results were what JEFFRO503 described. Mine was the first Taurus seen at his field.

Isn't a Taurus made from Sachs parts, just like the original A&Ms made 18 years ago? Would I not be getting the same performance with an early A&M?

The Taurus engine has had a lot of work done to it to make it super smooth and full of torque. I have seen most 50s out there and I would say there isn't another 50 that is as smooth as it is.

Don't know what Bill's magic touch was but it was a good one

The "magic" is a modification in the crank and case designs, the addition of a third bearing, a Mahle cylinder, and effective porting. They are high in price, about equal to a DA though, so you won't be getting one on the cheap.

About the only thing that can effect the performance of a new one would be either a bad carb or incorrectly set timing and the condition described in 3DDino's post fits timing to a "T". Low rpm with a crappy prop and even lower rpm with a good prop. The timing is probably currently set at zero/TDC and simply correcting that will bring the rpm up a thousand or more. What's great is that you don't have to buy anything or remove the engine for shipping to perform the fix.

thx SS
ur the best
shall report back the outcome

85" Yak 54 with a 3MM motor and a Vess 23A prop. Unlimited vertical. Choke, ignition on, 5 or 6 flips and a pop, choke off, iginition on 1 to 3 flips lites right up every time. Almost 10 gallons thru it and its runs excellent. Not one single problem so far.

Do you want to start it in 3 flips every time? Flip it twice with the choke on. Turn the choke off, flip it once, it'll fire right up.

SilverSurfer
you beat me to the punch again,i had about the same performance on my Taurus 52 as 3Ddino has,and i was going to tell him the same as you told me about the timing a while back,mine was off a little bit,change it to the 28-30 like you said and now i get 7550 on a 22-8 mejzlik,WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! try it Dino i'll bet yours is off also.
ENJOY!

roger that closetguy
thx