I bought two wood props. a 22x8 and a 23x8. I drilled the holes out on the 23x8 with no problems. But the 22x8 had a larger centering hole, most likely a defect during production. The hole is so big that the drill jig would wobble pretty bad in it. So I tried wrapping tape around the jig until it matched the size of the hole. Even doing so, the bolts holes won't line up with the engine (DA50). So from here I say the prop is junked. I called up TBM and talked to a guy about it, he said to use a bigger drill bit until I got the holes big enough to mount to the engine, and wrap some tape around the crankshaft. He made no effort to offer a return, I mean it's only a $21 prop! So all in all it's not really that big of a deal, but this dude essentially told me to jerry-rig the prop to MAKE it fit. I'm sorry but I'm NOT putting my $3000+ airplane in the air with a jerry-rigged prop! So needless to say I'm not the slightest bit impressed with Troy Built Model's customer service dept. I guess I'll have to buy my 150cc yak elsewhere.

Robby,

I'm guessing here that if you would have called before you drilled it out they would have made good on it. I had a similiar problem with a PT models prop delaminated along the 45 degree line they all have on their props asnd they sent me a new one after I sent them pics and told me to toss the old one

I've been using TBM for some time now and have always had great service from them.

Yeah like I said it's not a really big deal since it was only 20 bucks. But drilled or not, with the centering hole being too big, there's not really any practical way of centering the drill jig. I'll just order another one, no biggie.

Once you elected to drill it, you owned it. You can't return parts that have been changed or modified by the buyer. The distributor no longer has anything to go on for the reason of the defect. He can't return it to the manufacturer because the manufacturer will say, "but it's been drilled. How can I tell that it wasn't a customer error? Sorry, but you, the distributor, will have to eat this one."

Perhaps you received a bad prop, but faulty judgement in continuing with the prop in an effort to correct the original probem closed the door on a return. Cold and hard, but that's the way it is. Unfortunately your only option is as you noted. Buy another one and check it before proceeding.

Most of the first batch of TBM props where drilled out to 11mm. instead of 10mm. I received one this way and that is what Bill at TBM told me. He said to put tape around the motor shaft and all would be o.k. I am not really sure about that one.

If the prop is normally secured with outer hub bolts then as long as those holes are drilled concentrically with the center of the hub it's no big deal. The center bolt or shaft isn't doing anything anyway. OTH, if the center bolt is doing all the retention then it's a no go from my perspective. The hard part for many is locating the exact center to set up their drill jig or prop washer. Then again, most of them, me included, don't check the actual center and only use the pre-drilled hole...what can I say?

You can add tape to the crank. The two Brison 3.2 have smaller shafts (I think 3/8th inch versus 10mm) so the only way was to add tape. Never gave me a lick of problems on either one and that is a single bolt for the prop. I used blue painters tape. Nice and easy to get off when you wanted to.

When Gary ahd Brison he gave a plastic sleeve to make up for the difference but I lost mine on both engines. A clear plasti sleeve in 2 inches of grass is awfully hard to find, especially if it's a bit windy

Silversurfer, I agree with your post. Once I drilled it, it's mine. Even though the guy I talked to said to do the same thing I did...wrap the drill jig with tape until it fit snug in the prop hole. The really wierd part is I drilled the 4 holes without ever touching the jig, but when I line the holes up to the da50 prop washer, two holes will line up but the other two arern't. Either way I look at it, the prop is no good, I didn't know some of the centering holes had different sizes. I wanted to get it on the plane pretty quick so I could get it in the air. Oh well, I'll call 'em up and get another one on the way.

FWIW, electrical tape is between .005 and .007. I doubt that a wooden prop is centered that close.
Been using the stuff for years with no problem

I am just thinking why is a guy with a $3000+ plane using a $21 prop? just curious.

Mike

That's how much a typical wood prop costs right? I'm interested in getting a carbon fiber prop, but the 22x8 is being used for break in, so I don't want to invest $65-75 when it's going to come off after about 10 more flights. Plus I liked how TBM painted it white and fades out to red on the tips. The colors will match the plane pretty well.

I like the way FPE does it. Their engines ship with an aluminum prop washer that is drilled either 5/8 or 8mm (they are close) but the washer has a small, maybe 1/8 inch protrusion or *** that is on the side that goes toward the engine. This protrusion is exactly 10mm outside diameter and that takes up the slack. Practically all the larger props are drilled 10mm.

What FPE does makes so much sense I don't see why all engine mfgs don't do the same thing. The Brillelli 46cc I recently bought came with an aluminum bushing, which is ok, but not as good as FPE.

Are you kidding me?

Sometimes saving a buck is important, and can be done safely. I had a prop drilled for a 3MM engine, and those holes (all but TWO) weren't even CLOSE to what I needed for the DL 50. So... a little hardwood dowel and thin CA work, plugged holes. DONE. Using a drill jig, and a proper drill press - I actually was successful redrilling, and it didn't throw the balance too far off. I'm confident of the hub integrity, and I've already run it successfully.

You can save a prop that's misdrilled, if you want to, and have the patience and materials.

Oh - it was a TBM with an over-drilled center hole, too. But I didn't notice initially, either..... [:@]

Are you kidding me?
[/quote]


There have been more engine prop shafts with electrical tape wrapped than there have been airplanes, I'd bet. Anyone that has been around awhile at all remembers when NO props fit ANY shafts..... So .... electrical tape seemed fine, and was used on 30K rpm engines with no problems.

I think we've just gotten pick-ier....

(I shim the PROP hub for my Brillelli's, using CA hinge material. Works dandy.)

Don't throw the prop away. When you have time get the proper size wood dowels and insert these with epoxy and re-drill the holes on a good drill press with the proper size drill bits.

When I'm using a prop like NX on a 3/8" shaft I make a shim out of a Coke can. It makes a very good fit.

Thanks I'll try that. I kinda thought of doing it, but I didn't think the hub would hold up to that many holes, but a tight fitting dowel rod should strengthen it back up a bit. I'm not sure about the coke can shim though, I think it will still have a substantial amount of wobble. But I'll give it a try.

I don't really have a problem with the electrical tape solution. It's more that he called Troybuilt and instead of suggesting that he send the prop back for a replacement he suggested taping the shaft. Drilled or not I don't think he should have to keep it unless he drilled the center hole. Actually if I remember right on troybuilts sight it says if your not satisfied with it after 30 days send it back for a refund it just has to be in flying condition.

To be honest I have yet to read anything good about the TBM props. I bought one and it's sitting on a shelf now waiting to be used as a stick to stir paint.

Being a machinest I can make my own bushings and so forth if something like this does come up ,but I don't have a clue as to how much tape I have used over the years for a fast easy fit of a loose prop. One thing I will do if the bushing is very thin I will open the center hole up a little in the prop so the bushing will have some side wall to it .
One last item when drilling out any prop it's a good idea to use a drill press and drill the prop from the back side, also the wood drills quite easy don't rush it and clear the chips or in this case wood from the drill flutes often, That will help stop the drill bit from building up and wandering.
PS a good sharp drill is a must also preferablly a new one that is just used for drilling out props.

Robby 368 I would do as others have stated and dowel the bad holes and redrill the prop, it should be just fine.

camss69 - Gotcha, sorry I misinterpreted your post, but no harm, I hope....
"To be honest I have yet to read anything good about the TBM props. I bought one and it's sitting on a shelf now waiting to be used as a stick to stir paint. "

Now THIS comment is interesting.... I've not read very many public posts, if any, about the TBM props being not quite the best thing going. However, I have to agree... Unfortunately, I have two.... a 23 x 8 and a 22 x 8 used on two different engines. I have found them to be a HUGE load, really dragging down the r's of both engines, and very "slow" propellors. Comparing them agains Xoar, JXF, and NX, I've realized for my style of flying and engines I run, I should stick with those flavors.

Interesting thread. Didn't know Troy Built had that kind of a warranty statement.

Well its been said a couple of times...but expecting a return on something you destroyed...well thats crazy. You should have called and complained "BEFORE" you tried your jury rigging.

Its not any more jury rigging than trying to cut the holes in the first place with the drill rig held by masking tape--thats jury rigging.

The shims are not going to be "weight" sensitive...they are just going to make sure the screw is true to the center of the hole. You making a mountain out of a mole hill. As long as the prop is centered on the holes so the balance of the prop is not off, the actual tightening of the screws is going to keep anything from moving.

The wood dowels sound like an even "dandier" solution though.

[>:] Hoping that you are replying to Robby368, there 3d....

No harm at all, no problem.

Here are the quotes from the website:

"100% guarantee! Use it for 30 days. If you don't like it - return it for a full refund!*"

"*Note: Full refund does not include shipping. Propeller can be drilled and mounted, but the propeller must be in perfect shape other than that. Guarantee expires 30 days after purchase."

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/Propeller.htm

I had the exact same results, huge load, low R's, "slow" performance in the air, changed back to a Xoar, higher R's and much better all around flight performance, went from no pullout to pullout, very noticeable difference.

The TBM was also more out of balance than any wood prop (giant scale type) than any I'd ever had before.

My problem was I bought the prop before building the plane, then built the plane and 2 - 3 months later found the disappointing prop performance, way after the 30 days. I did a search on RCU and found others have noted the same type of performance. I did not attempt to get a refund since it had been more than 30 days so I don't know if they would have taken care of me or not.

:: wow ::

[X(]

It also helps to use a brad point bit. They wander less