I have 3 OS160FX's and I start them with a chicken stick. They start up very easy, however I would like to use a starter, but my present starter wont turn the thing over. If anyone is using anything different let me know, if not I will just keep using the chicken stick. I noticed, I think it was Hobbico, or Royal that makes a starter for starting engines up to a 1.80, but wasnt sure what kinda battery to use, or if this would be the best product.
Daz...

3 OS160Fx installed in:

H9 Cap 232 1/4
GP giles 1/4
GP US1000

You need a gel cell with a high amp rating to start the bigger motors. That initial amp dram from starter motors especially on the bigger motors is to much for most standard "hobby size" gel cells. I purchased a 12 AH gell cell from Interstate Batteries and have yet to see something it wont do. I could prolly jump start my Ford F-250 with the V-10 in it!!!

Scott

Dazzler, I use a a Kavan geared starter. It will start a Saito 180 and a YS120 with no problem.

Also, how well does the OS160FX fly the Cap 232?


Kevin

KRS where did you get your Kavan starter from? Is there a website?

Just for curiosity's sake I tried yesterday (with my Kavan) to start my OS 160 that is mounted on my DP Ultimate and it would not start it with a hot battery. The good news is that when the 160's are primed correctly you can simply put your hand on the spinner and give it a good twist and it will start right up, especially on warmer days. Also a good broken in engine will start with that method quite easily.

I've started mine from day one with an easy back flip. Doesn't take much... less than a Moki. :-)

Dazzler, I got mine from B&P Associates. You can get a 2.2 AMP battery pack and Kavan starter for about $80.

I have a new OS160FX that i just put on a H9 Ultra Stick. While breaking it in it started easily with a chicken stick but most of the time it started running the wrong way.

I bought a Kavan starter fm Central Hobbies and I squezzed in 12 2200mAh ni-cads. It starts the 160 without a problem and always the right way.

Ken

"While breaking it in it started easily with a chicken stick but most of the time it started running the wrong way."

That's why you give it a back-flip, right JBH?

sullivan dynatron with 24volt setup will start it no problem. or add the gear reduction from smith ind. and it will start up to a 3.8cuin

Exactly. :-)

Nice shades, btw. :-)

My dynatron with the sullivan 14.4 v power pack will start the OS 1.60 and my Saito 1.80 pretty easily. Loaded the pack with 12 1500 milliamp cells. Everyone at the club is always grabbing my starter when their torquemasters won't do the job.

Way back when I did UC, we never heard of an electric starter. When I started back up with RC, I bought a starter like eveyone else. I soon got tired of lugging 12 volt batteries around and starters - too dang heavy. I went back to hand starting everything - .015 up to 160 cc gas burners. If it doesn't readily start, you got something that needs fixing. Works for me, but when people ask me at the field about doing it that way, I tell them with a bit of practice they can also do it by hand, but be sure to use a good leather glove. Even though I have been at hand starting for 35+ years, I always use a glove. One mistake is all that it would take to lose body parts. Three years ago a buddy at a meet was hand flipping - I offered use of my glove - he said he didnt' need it - until about five flips later. Would have save him a trip to the ER and a bunch of stitches.

Dan

Mine starts witha quick backflip of the spinner when warm, otherwise it starts easy with a hi-torque handheld starter driven by a lawn and garden deep cycle 12 volt ....Forget about those cheapie drycells for your 46fx........


dave

I started a brand new OS 160 using the back flip method. It started on the first flip! The key is to get it to "kick back" after priming and while slowly pulling it through the compression stroke. This indicates a good prime. Don't forget to hold on to the prop while slowly pulling it through. After you feel the "kick back" Give it a good back flip onto the compression side. This works great on 4 strokes as well.

Maybe I will keep using the chicken stick on my 1.60's, but will probably look for a different 12volt battery anyway for my other planes. The chicken stick usually starts mine after the 3rd flip which is really good. I will also try the backflip method. Daz...

daz. practice back flip starting with a warm engine till you get the hange of it. the first start of the day i some times use my dynatron depending on how cold it is. once you get practiced it's easy and safe.

Ahhhh.... What?

Can you give a better discription of what you are doing with the back flip starting technique?

Hey guys....I haven't run my 1.6 FX yet, but I have several smaller motors that I start by hand. TT46's, GP-42's an MVVS 45, and a 25FX. All of these little motors will start easily by hand when warm, and need only to be primed properly when cold.
I just attach the glow battery, set the throttle to about 1/3, and put my thumb and fore-finger in opposite screw holes on the spinner...(a little more difficult with aluminum spinner)..and then snap my fingers...the snapping motion spins the engine backwards until it hits compression, it fires, and starts running in the proper direction. I'm also pulling my hand back as I snap, keeping my delicate fingers away from the prop. I've got one engine w/ an aluminum spinner, and a Dubro with no screws...those are more difficult...If I can't get any of the engines to start in 2-4 flips, somethings up.
TM

I`m using a Sulivan Dynatron with two motorcyclebatteries, each rated at 15 Ah. This combo(24 V.) will spin a 140 with great speed.

Flyby

It is also called the compression bump technique.
You prime the engine, and flip a couple of times without glow. When the engine feels good and ready, add glow, grip the prop real tight, and try to turn it over the compression. When it knocks back, it is an indication that it is ready to go. Now lightly flip the engine backwards against the normal rotation, just bump it against compression, so when it kicks back, it starts running in the right direction. Bij the time that happens, have your fingers out of the way! A slight twist on the spinner also has the same effect. This works on all glow engines, from 1/2A to 2.50. For the larger engines, it is the only way!

I've started my OS FX 1.60 with a backflip even when it was cold. Get a good prime going, put heat to the glow, and snap the spinner or prop clockwise with a flick of your wrist.

This method is much easier if you have the prop installed so that the top prop blade is at the 1:30-2:00 O'clock position when it hits the compression. This is also a good position even if you don't finger start your engine because if you deadstick your prop will usually be in the horizontal position, the chance of breaking a prop on a bad landing is greatly reduced.

If you have a Higley prop nut instead of a spinner: With your middle 2 fingers on the top inside of the top prop blade and your thumb on the bottom inside of the bottom prop blade -- flick your wrist clockwise, at the same time bring your fingers back away from the prop to keep from being bit.

If you have a spinner you do basically the same thing but its more like spinning a top.

The idea is not to try to get the engine to go through the compression stroke, just to bounce against it; when it bounces it is going in the proper direction when the engine fires.

Kavan from Central Hobbies with a garden tractor battery spins my 160FX quite well. It also starts well by hand when you get the fuel up to it but the starter gets it up thru the fueling valve to the engine faster.
I was surprised that the geared Kavan only costs around $37.

Bill