freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I use Yamabond 4. Thats what I use to put VW case halves together with, and they don't have gaskets. Yamabond 4 sets up like soft plastic. You can get it at any Yamaha dealer.
Put a thin layer on each half (I use a small brush), and let it set up for a while before assembly. Always make sure that the crankshaft turns freely thru tightening process. On some engines, a gasket must be used to avoid binding the crankshaft. My SV26 is needed the clearance, so I had to cut a gasket for it.

electricpaps

Thanks Threeonfree. I couldn't find Yamabond so I settled for Loctite Autojoint Gold, which according to a Motorcycle forum resists gas OK. Anyone here ever used it? It sets fast and the excess peels away easily even on the inside of the case.

I pulled the engine apart yesterday. The combustion chamber was pretty much coverd in black grime. I guess from running too rich.
The bearings were a little caked up. Turning the crank by hand didn't get them to move. Cleaned 'em up with white spirit, air dried and oiled. They move better now but seem a bit tight all the same. They do rotate now when I turn the crank. On the other hand there is absolutely no play on the bearings and I guess at 6500rpm they'll certainly turn. You can see the shaft has friction marks at the bearing locations.

I wonder if the bearings aren't packed with grease or something at origin. Mine are sealed in the outside but not the inside as you can see below so they should only be lightly oiled to my thinking.

I chamfered the ports just a little to get some "flash" off. Otherwise they had some chamfer at origin. I dont know if its what skiman means by a chamfer though.

A few casting spikes on the head were flattened and some excess away brushed with a flat screwdriver.

I filed away the bulge around the magnet on the hub to get a good seat. Some excess material at the 3 tapped holes also needed removal with a drill bit.

It'll all be back together with a new front seal for testing next saturday. Hope it'll be a "new" engine. I'll post the results.

Thanks to everyone for their help and insight.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I took the SV50 single apart, as well as my SV26, and the bearings in both are rough. I wonder if Timken makes bearings in these sizes. Timken bearings are very high quality...

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Greg and I run 100:1 full synthetic, so the inside of our engines, as well as the spark plugs, stay very clean. That black stuff you see is probably the petroleum based oil your using in your gas.

skiman762

Your brave running ''brand X'' bearings at 100:1 should be good test for it

electricpaps

Can you explain the conditions to use 100 to 1 gasil mix. All the engine recommendations I've seen say 33:1 for running in, then 40:1 afterwards. 100:1 thats 2 1/2 times less.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

100:1 full synthetic is what Brison wants you to use in their engines. My buds Brison 50 has been running on it for about 5 years now. My SV26 loves it ! The plane stays clean, and so does the inside of the engine and the spark plug. I'll never use anything else. I tried the 32:1 petroleum based crud, and all it did was mess my plane up, YUK ! The only thing that comes out my exhaust now is hot air.

electricpaps

So I got my new seals and put a new one in. What I found is that the case is not smaa enough for the seal to be a really tightfit. After turnig the crank a few times, the crakcase pressure just blew it forewards again and the leak (strong) was back.

Remedial work I used is to tap 4 holes in the case and install 3mm screws as shown below. These 4 screws now stop the seal from moving forewards. I don't think they have any negative side effects.

I also used extra long screws for the sensor, ground to a sharp point at the end. They stick into the seal slightly without deforming it and stop any tendancy for the seal to turn (which it did a little) when turning the crakshaft.

I wonder if the slightly loose fit of the 28mm OD seal isn't the cause of most of the problems on some of these engines. I'm sur mine came forewards at the factory test run. My carb never sucked on my thumb when choking, it does now.

I'm really hoping this'll fix my idle speed. Test this afternoon, whish me luck.

Happy flying
Paul

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Those screws wont stop the leak I dont think. They will just push the seal away from the bore and leak more I believe. If the seal fits the crankshaft good, I would use some sealer around the outside edge of the seal where it meets the case.

superdave01

My ORIGINAL seal was a very loose fit. The new seal went it normal, a socket and a hammer and many small even hits, not taps, it took hits to get it in and it was tight all the way so the opening seemed even in size from start till it bottomed out.

Im sure the original seal did get pushed back with the pressure, It wasnt far in when i first looked at it.

Flew again friday and it started, 4 flips choke on POP, 4 flips and she was running. I thought the idle was inconsistent but i now see that i have a servo problem. So far im a very happy camper, from what i lost on time i feel i gained way more in engine experience.

Engine feels smooth and im thinking about buting the 52 cc version, if i do ill replace the seal and maybe bearings before i even start it, I figure $5 for the seal which i have extra anyway and $25 probally for the bearings means a GOOD $240 52cc engine with muffler and electronc Ignition........ hard to go wrong!!!!

electricpaps

The screws are in front of the seal; they only act as a shoulder and stop the seal moving forewards. The engine starts with the standard choke procedure now. and the plug is no longer wet when removed. Engine runs smooth but still having a little trouble getting the idle low.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

OK, cool... now, look closely at the throttle butterfly. on my SV26, there was a small hole in the butterfly allowing air to pass thru and causing the high idle. I simply applied a drop of 6 minute epoxy to both sides of the hole, and used a pin to ensure that both side ran into each other. It has been great so far, and my SV26 idles dependably at 1000 rpm now. Dennis

joseph185

I have about 5 gal. of very good service with my 45, it makes me wonder if all the problems yall are having are coming my way or is it a QC issue with only a few engines not meeting the criteria. Should I partially dissasemble my engine to check the prop hub and seal play or keep flying and hope nothing goes wrong? I am a firm beleiver of PM but also if it aint broke dont fix it. What do yall think

superdave01

The carb that came with MY ftl45 is a walbro wt717-1 if i remeber correctly and it does have a hole in the throttle plate but thats not the problem if you have the same carb, mine idles as low as i want it to go and will also kill with throttle too.

I suggest that you might have a air leak in your Intake...... Remove it and seal it up, I used Permatex High temp Copper on bothe sides of the gasket and also on the engine and carb, I tightened mine pretty tight and its not leaking as i can get low idle but only have a few flights so far.

Note: I feel that if you just snug the intake it will be better, Since its not metal and kinda soft very tight would tend to distort it and cause a leak..... If mine stays good ill leave it, If it dont then ill remove it and sand it flat and redo and lightly tighten the intake to the engine, maybe use a lil amout of locktite. The factory claims to tight is why they leak.

United Hobbies is sending me the new intake but its shown "Processing" for over a week.....

skiman762

Dave
He already put the metal adapter on see post 151
might just need some runtime to settle in
Glad to hear yours is running good
there's talk about a 80or85 I may hold out for that one

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Good luck, I got tired of waiting for my new rear crankcase for my SV26, and had my bud plasma cut me an aluminum mounting plate today. It's sanwiched between the reeds and the case. This is how it should have been manufactured in the first place. I really enjoyed cutting those ears off and grinding them smooth to the case profile.

skiman762

It's not like you can take a road trip and jump on their desk they kinda move to a different drum

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

True, but as long as others hear what were going thru, via these forums, at least others have a chance to make better choices, and avoid purchasing problem engines, like the SV50, which actually shook so badly, it cracked the fuse of my buds new $500.00 plane. The FTL45 is very nice, and performs beautifully, but neither of us will ever buy from HC again.

superdave01

I only read what i have to, saw his problem and it sounded like...... maybe hes leaking air around the seal, my new one fit tight like a seal should, I would be curious to measure his seal, maybe its undersixed like the one that came in my ftl45?

Skiman, whats you latest report....... 80 would be to big a plane, ive got a hangar 9 1/3 scale extra thats simply to big for me, 1/4 and smaller is just right for me, wish i could find a local that wanted that plane.

Dave

freeonthree

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I agree, except for the smaller part. Im bored with the smaller planes, but my 1/4 scale Stearman is just right. I don't think I would like anything any bigger though, too hard to get them thru the door of the house and carry to and from the flatbed. Nice thing about the Stearman is the 71.5 inch wing span. The other nice thing about biplanes in general, is the built in handle (top wing).

Well, I got my SV26 dialed in now. I'd like to see it break this mount just flying around. This is how it should have been made in the first place. I hate wimpy stuff...

skiman762

Mine still fires right up no time to build right now have to get all the spring work done around here or soon it will be to hot and humid to breath outside
I know what yoiur saying about the bigger stuff 85'' and under is where I plane to stay if my eyes get that bad I'll hang up my wings
plus if you do the math to 80-86'' stuff seems to have the lightest wing loading and I've learned lighter planes judt fly better

electricpaps

OK, I think I've ound something!!! After going over all the great info I've had from thses forums I made an adjustment today and it seems to have cleared up the idle and starting problems I was having. Apprently my metering lever was too high. I lowered it about 1/16th and now I'm getting a consistent idle at 15 - 1600 rpm with a 20x10" wood.

Also the thing no longer floods, which was making restarting pretty difficult. Today it started after 3 or 4 flips every time. First time for me. A second happy camper I guess.
My ftl 45 carb is a WT 717 A. So anyone with my symptoms may want to try adjusting the metering lever. See here for details : http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/f...g-newbies.html

Here's another newbie question. I'm using semi-sythetic at 3%. The exhaust emits these sticky black spots (same gunk as I found in the combustion chamber). Is this from the mineral part of my oil and will it disappear when I go over to 100% synthetic at 2 or 1.5% ?

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

We use full synthetic at 100:1 in all our gassers, and we have almost nothing but hot air coming out of our exhausts. My 26 only saw 1/2 tank of petroleum based oil before I got disgusted with the mess and switched to full synthetic. I poured the nasty gas in my pickup, and gave the rest of the oil away. I run my new weedeater and chain saw on 100:1 FS now also. They run alot better and cleaner now too.
Our new FTL45 got 100:1 FS right out of the box, and it purrs like a kitten. This is one of the smoothest engines we have ever seen, and the idle is simply amazing...

Bad Driver

Hi guys,

A quick question for those of you who have stripped down your FTL45's...

How much play did you have in the big & small ends (between the bearings and the con rod)?

I've just received my motor and whilst examining it I noticed a metallic knocking noise if I shook it fore & aft. After removing the carb and managing to get the cylinder head off - it was well stuck with black silicone goo - I can grip the con-rod and twist it slightly about the big-end bearing - is this normal Chinese "tolerances"? The noise I heard was the rod sliding happily forwards and backwards along the big & small end bearings.

Cheers,
Steve

skiman762

two of these will hold it centered

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...D=ZEN267041510