freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Looks like one of those wavey German lock washers to me. Hmmm...

skiman762

you don't get the one pictured it's a spacer with counter bore for the wrist pin bearing to sit it

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

And it will make it so we can remove the button on the SV50, so it will be in balance ?

skiman762

yeah it will hold the rod cetered on the piston so it can't slide
not sure what the measurement is there nothing special you could make a set on a lathe

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

We were either going to add weight to the counter weight, or make a spacer to just hold the rod back, but not necessarily center it from both sides. So the item pictured was not the part they were selling for that purpose ?

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I went to Zenoah's page and saw all their conrod spacers. This is too easy... We'll just pull the wrist pin out and put a suitable spacer in there. Im sure we can find something that will do the job in our parts collection. That button has to go, and this will be alot easier than adding weight to the cranks counterweight. Thanks for that info !

Bad Driver

Some images of my FTL45...

skiman762

Is that the 45 or 52 ?
Get those spacers form Horizon that will fix the side play right up

udi maman

My Feedback: (18)

what is your recomondation
the 45 or the 52
thanks
udi

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Why did you take the FTL45 apart ? Don't tell me they have problems too...

Bad Driver

...because I thought it was faulty. From my earlier poast...

I've just received my motor and whilst examining it I noticed a metallic knocking noise if I shook it fore & aft. After removing the carb and managing to get the cylinder head off - it was well stuck with black silicone goo - I can grip the con-rod and twist it slightly about the big-end bearing - is this normal Chinese "tolerances"? The noise I heard was the rod sliding happily forwards and backwards along the big & small end bearings.

Turns out to be standard Chinese workmanship

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Thats fine as long as the rod cannot come off the crank pin I guess. You would think they would have added spacers to stop that. They had to notice...

skiman762

No it's not really fine since the small end can ride on only half of the bearing if the rod moves one way ant the bearing the other
It's best to get the g45 spacer and take the freeplay out otherwise the bearing can wear on a taper and shortly afterwards the rod and piston will be working on each other
and the big end will do the same to a lesser degree

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

If ya put the spacer on the wrist pin, what keeps the crank pin bearing from walking out of the rod ? Maybe adding weight to the counterweight, and leaving the button on, is the best way to go then. Dennis

skiman762

The FTL is a 3 piece crank not a Cantilever

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

OK, our 45 is doin fine, it's our SV50 that has issues. Way out of balance...

ragallo

It seems that the only good thing about these engines is the price. When I buy something new. I expect it to work properly. I only run mine about three times before the snow started. But the exhaust was leaking in several places. The carburetor was not pumping gas even with the choke closed. The manual or come with a is worthless they did not send a spark plug. I guess it's like the old saying, you get what you pay for. I have bought other products from Hobby city batteries motors speed controls with good results as well as good price. I would like to try the 100 CC SV engine, but probably won't. Well good luck to you all and your engines. Later
Bob G.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

No spark plug ? Well, your not really missing out. I don't care for those Jenn Feng plugs anyway. The center electrodes and insulators are always way off center.

J-3John

Well been reading all the things about this motor on this forum. Got my 45 in first of Feb. I have had carb. problems. But think i have it all worked out know. The thing that i can tell all of you, , is just be patient. brake it in before you start throwing part at it like i did. Mine is stell a little tuchey on the neadles, but only have about 1/2 galon trow it . But iam stell conserd about the front seal problem, havent got the hub off yat to see if it is bad. Her is a video of it. It gets better thow evertime i run it.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=4mIfMti5-uI

skiman762

You may just find your carb problem is in the seal that's what some of have found so far

superdave01

To see the damage to my seal i had to remove it.

Your engine seems to run great, idle is much smooter then mine is, mine runs great but rough idle, if i smooth it out with the low needle i loose transition on power up.

Im looking into if maybe my hub is bent and im also considering totally disambeling it and putting spacers on wrist pin and high quality bearings and sealing it up good, the rest of the engine i feel is GOOD quality.

If the hub isnt the shake then ive not a clue where to start of smoothing it out really, just never done before, tried diff prop and both balanced very good.

RC Extreme power

My Feedback: (24)

Have you check the timing, Is it is to low or to high it will have a rough idle.

You can check the hub while on the plane by rotating and checking the tips of prop

Milton

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Harbor Freight sells a dandy dial indicator for well under $20.00.

superdave01

Timing, DUH....thanks i sometimes over look the easiest thing.

WACO528

Just wanted to say thanks for the info everyone has posted. The info here helped me make the final decision to get the FTL. I fired mine up and couldn't get a good idle and transition was terrible with finicky needles. Pulled it to inspect the seal and sure enough, it wasn't seated all the way back. Figured as long as it was coming off, I would eliminate the slop in the con-rod and put the spacers in. After getting it apart, the bearings felt a little rough so went the whole route for $25 and ordered it all. The seal was in good shape but a 14mm which would shorten it's life. Replace the bearings with NSK sealed bearings and the seal with TCM seal. Reassembled and fired it up today. The thing runs great!! Have a 22x8 prop on it now, may switch to a 20x8 for initial flights an further break in. Have about 1-1/2 hrs on it now. Also replaced the spark plug in that figure as I was getting glitching. No further glitching. The bearings are NSK 6202VVC3, the seal is a TCM 15x28x7TC, and the spark plug is an NGK BPMR6F. The bearings came from a local bearing supply house and the plug came from a small engine shop. Had a lot of trouble locating a resistor plug to match, but the place I finally found keeps them in stock. With all this, the price still can't be beat. If if runs in the air like it is now, I'll be getting more. We ordered two at the same time and the other one has been running great without any changes, though I am trying to convince Greg to make the changes a precaution. Better than having to dig it out of the cornfield later. May be fine, but after being inside of mine, I feel a lot more confident about the dependability. Thanks again. Will post again after gettting in the air next weekend.
DaveLearn from others mistakes, you can't possibly live long enough to make them all yourself.