*subscribing to see if I learn anything from the experts*


I mix my oil on my gassers to the specs of the manufacturer, and the oil company, all my DA's are on amzoil 100:1, DA wants it, and amzoils sells it that says to mix it at 100:1. so I do. Done it for years.

Even some synthetics that say mix @ 100:1 can be mixed at as low as 50:1. Have a bottle of Amsoil that says for server duty the 100:1 Saber can be mix a rich as 80:1 or 50:1 Yep Rcpilet, gotta read the bottle first.

Well someone is just going to have to climb mount *****et and ask Confuscious afor there's a much bigger Fuster Cluckus[sm=punching.gif]

now thats a great post! *appluads*

Golf clap!!

http://www.qworld.com/Les/Applause.WAV

Give it 4 or 5 secs to load.

^^^ LMAO

He can edit his own post later but not this quote!

OK, thats it, I can't take this nonsense anymore. Most everything you just said was incorrect.
The chart is there so you can follow the engine manuf's recomendations, and mix your oil accordingly. Brison recomends 100:1 and the chart on the bottle say thats 1.5 ounces per gallon for 100:1. The chart is there for people who are not good at math. If anyone out here feels that Brison is wrong, do your own thing, I trust Brison.

Thank you John, Greg is very happy with that mix as well, and im loving it too.

Brison recommends synthetic oils that are rated at 100:1. If you take an oil designed to be mixed at 40:1 and thin it down to 100:1, then I guess it's your choice. I have a Brison, it would be a shame to trash it by doing that.

I never stated that I was using an oil that was not designed to be mixed at 100:1

But but you have this mistaken perception that it's okay to do so. Your posts only refer to what the engine manufacturer recommends, not what the oil is rated for. That's not how oil mixing works.

You're hilarious man. You just don't get it, do you? You're so focused on defending your position of running 100:1 that you can't even comprehend what I said. If you want to run 100:1 then do it. But don't make blanket statements that "synthetics should be run at 80:1 or 100:1" because it's simply NOT TRUE for all the different types of oils available. Thats spreading misinformation.

Somebody help me out here. I knew I should have stayed out of this thread.

WORD

Me too. Beer at the Flyfalcons household for those who want to stop by.

Hmmm... I never seen a bottle of oil that tells me what mix to use for any given engine before. The bottles i've seen just have a chart that does the math for you so you can follow the engine manuf's recomendations. You must be buying your oil in a hobby shop. I just talked to my friend who owns an outdoor power equipt shop here in town, and he said he runs 100:1 full synthetic in all his weedeaters and chainsaws. He even told me that he tried to talk me into it when I went in to get oil for my first gallon of gas, and I was resistant to the idea, but I don't remember that part of my visit that day. Turns out that he bought 6 gallons of the QuickSilver from Walmart when they had it on sale for $15.00 last week, and now I know why I got the next to the last gallon. Greg got one before me, and called me immediatly to alert me of the sale. They had 2 gallons left when I scored mine. Apparently, they were in the process of moving stock around to different isles, and put all the heavier stuff on major sale to get rid of it. Sounds silly to me, but thats what the manager told me.
I think this stuff was origionally around 35 or 40 bucks a gallon, I paid $11.74 for a darn quart of it one hour before I got Gregs call and raced back to Walmart. What a deal ! I got me a lifetime supply of oil for $16.09 out the door !

While the entertainment in this thread is priceless it does leave me to one question.

Why was a plane run at 32 or 40 : 1 covered in slim if it wasn't rich? I have never experienced this accept during the first gallon when running lawnboy ashless or something and even then it was more black dots than slim. I run 50:1 Penzoil and never have a slimmy plane right from the get go.

I mean it sounds to me like the only reason for going 100:1 is to get rid of the slim from your point of view?

Run out and buy two bottles of oil. BelRay H1R and BelRay MC-1. Both have variable ratios. One is full synthetic, the other is not. I'm not going to tell you what they say because you should read it for yourself.

I've been putting this off but now I need to go out and open up a sealed box to see if there's a Brison manual in there. I can't locate at least two that should be out in the open soemwhere....In my many conversations with Gary while he was still in business we never discussed ratios above 80-1 with most oils then available.

Im thru with this forum, but before I go, I do want to stat one more little fact. What is the biggest killer of gasoline 2 strokes ? It's not lack of oil in the fuel, but that would certainly do one in fast. Nope, thats not it at all.... It's carbon ! Grit ! yep, all that carbon buildup from using cheap or too much oil. That carbon does not all stay on the top of the piston, or even on the spark plug. Thats right ! During high speed operation, all that carbon starts breaking loose, little by little. It can only build up so much before it starts dispersing itself down in between the piston and cylinder, and in the ring land. It scores the piston and the cylinder wall, sticks the ring, and it just get worse as time goes on. Gasoline 2 strokes don't normally seize if fed the proper amount and quality of oil, but even too much of a good thing can be terrible. Gasoline 2 strokes die slowly as they lose their compression because of the grit from the carbon. There should not be any buildup of carbon in your engine with the oil technology we have today, but some people refuse to listen. There was no, and I repeat "NO" carbon buildup on Gregs spark Plug whatsoever, and it has been in there for over 4 years ! That Brison 50 has never had anything but 100:1 full synthetic run thru it, and it's as strong today as the day he took it out of the box. Thats all im gunna say, and now im unsubscribing from this forum thread. The only reason I came here in the first place was to let the starter know that there was no reason to break in his gasoline 2 stroke engine. How it came to all this oil discussion is beyond me, but it's certainly an important issue. Happy flying ! Dennis

Dennis,

You have hit upon something that we both completely agree on, and that's carbon rapidly advances engine wear as it migrates through an engine.

I can't resist:

Wasn't Amsoil at 100:1 one of the WORSE in development of hard carbon deposits? I seam to remember a link to some engine and oil testing that showed a bunch of engines after 5g of fuel using various oils and ratios.

[sm=angel_smile.gif]

Yep, RCbugman did those tests. But in oils defense, he ran them at WOT for the complete duration and we generally don't do that.

From the Brison manual I just dug out of a box with a mechanical advance 3.2 in it;

"FUEL: Use high octane gasoline, leaded or unleaded, with a good quality 2 cycle oil. You should only use synthetic oils such as Amsoil or Klotz. The recommended ratios are 64:1 to 100:1 with 64:1 being petroleum based oil and 80/100:1 being the synthetic. Our engines will run at 100:1 with GOOD synthetic oils. Never use more oil than necessary because it will stick the rings, causing the piston to melt, voiding your warranty. Damage caused by fuel additives, such as nitro, are not covered under warranty and the use of these additives will void your warranty." This quoted from a Brison manual included with engine #204.

Now, that being said, I have to also add some notes that I had written on the front of the engine manual from one of the conversations I had with Gary Allison a few years ago. People can believe them or not but I have no need to fabricate since I don't care what anyone does to their engines. Once again, they aren't mine so why should I?

One of Gary's statements that contradicts the manual written much earlier was that he did not like Amsoil for his engines anymore. His statement was "No Amsoil-Ever!". Seems he had some issues with warranty work on 100-1 Amsoil engines.

The next note regards oil. It's noted 50 to 70-1 with a good synthetic. There were 4 oils noted as "good" synthetics; Pennzoil Air Cooled, Mobil 2 stroke, H1R, and Redline 2 Stroke Racing. There must have been some confusion on his part about synthetics because at least one of the noted oils is not a true synthetic.

The manual was written a long time ago and perhaps he never got around to making changes in the print that he was passing along in direct conversation. Nowhere in the written version does it mandate that 100-1 synthetic be used. It does provide the option, but had someone taken the time to talk to the man they would have found that his outlook had changed considerably. This was about the same time period that Greg obtained his engine, around 4 or 5 years ago. But if you want to run 100-1 I'm sure not going to try to stop you. Heck, if you want to run 40 wt. Quaker State cut with bacon grease at 10-1 please be my guest if it pleases you.

At least you got someone to quote the Brison manual for ya

This might work if you're looking for a Brison manual www.rc-revolution.com/bri%20owners.pdf I remember talking to Gary's dad at Brison several years ago and he suggested to use 80:1 Amsoil instead of the manual's recommended 100:1 Amsoil. Not sure why. I run one of my 3.2 Brisons on the 80:1 Amsoil mix( because I bought a 12 pack and still have some left) and another 3.2 on Pennzoil aircooled at 40:1. They both run great and no slime out of either. Almost identical rpm with the same prop. Maybe after this upcoming season is over I'll disassemble them both and share some photos, but don't hold to me to it! I still belong to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it club" .

Just to change the subject a little.

I just finished re-assembling a 6.4 (essentially two 3.2's) that had been running mostly Redline and Motul at between 70 and 80-1. Had the guy that did the crash repair put the heads on right I would have never looked inside the heads. After a few years of running they looked real good, as did the pistons. Very little residual carbon on the combustion dome and no marring of the piston machining marks, so no cylinder contact. No carbon blow by either. Good enough not to change.