Exhause coupler for Evolution 26
01-28-2008 | 11:27 AM
#1
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From: Corvallis,
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Exhause coupler for Evolution 26
I need help finding a coupler solution for my Evolution 26 with stock header and tuned pipe. The coupler material supplied does not last very long. I was wondering if there is a teflon coupler (similar to what is on headers and cans for bigger engines) that will fit? I will let you know that I have the 3W small coupler, 22mm but it's too big and the clamps will not clamp it in place. I don't know if the coupler can be resized (not sure how, heat it?) or can I wrap the header and pipe with something to increase it's size?
I'm hoping someone has solved this problem.
I appreciate those who have come before me.
Solstice
I'm hoping someone has solved this problem.
I appreciate those who have come before me.
Solstice
01-28-2008 | 05:15 PM
#3
Senior Member
RE: Exhause coupler for Evolution 26
Dick Hansen has good results with the original materials. In my book, a teflon coupler with spring clamps, and the pipe ends roughened is better. I guess, I run my engines leaner than he does, so the pipe gets to be very hot. So hot in fact, that the silicone just starts to float on the steel header. So I use teflon couplers, with a pipe clamp on the header to which I wire wrap the teflon sprin clamps. The clamp prevents the coupler from sliding forward at certain loads, the wire prevents it from sliding backward at full load.
If you want that silicone to last, use a small gap between pipe and header, don't angle the pipe relative to the header, and tune the engine about 100 rpm rich from best rpm.
If you want that silicone to last, use a small gap between pipe and header, don't angle the pipe relative to the header, and tune the engine about 100 rpm rich from best rpm.
01-28-2008 | 06:31 PM
#4
RE: Exhause coupler for Evolution 26
ORIGINAL: pe reivers
Dick Hansen has good results with the original materials. In my book, a teflon coupler with spring clamps, and the pipe ends roughened is better. I guess, I run my engines leaner than he does, so the pipe gets to be very hot. So hot in fact, that the silicone just starts to float on the steel header. So I use teflon couplers, with a pipe clamp on the header to which I wire wrap the teflon sprin clamps. The clamp prevents the coupler from sliding forward at certain loads, the wire prevents it from sliding backward at full load.
If you want that silicone to last, use a small gap between pipe and header, don't angle the pipe relative to the header, and tune the engine about 100 rpm rich from best rpm.
Dick Hansen has good results with the original materials. In my book, a teflon coupler with spring clamps, and the pipe ends roughened is better. I guess, I run my engines leaner than he does, so the pipe gets to be very hot. So hot in fact, that the silicone just starts to float on the steel header. So I use teflon couplers, with a pipe clamp on the header to which I wire wrap the teflon sprin clamps. The clamp prevents the coupler from sliding forward at certain loads, the wire prevents it from sliding backward at full load.
If you want that silicone to last, use a small gap between pipe and header, don't angle the pipe relative to the header, and tune the engine about 100 rpm rich from best rpm.
