paco ritter

My Feedback: (51)

Just got one of these engines from AGAPE HOBBY SHOP as advertised on RCU. The little engine appears to be pretty well made, not a "DA" by any means, but not near the cost either! Single bolt prop hub, but I have no issue with that on an engine of this size. Crankshaft end is tapped for spinner bolt. Comes with muffler, a bit bulky in size, but does a decent job of quitening it down and doesn't look too bad once it's cowled in. Also has the electronic ignition, which is 4.8V. I had to order another regulator to bring my lithium batteries down to 4.8 volts since my other regulator was at 6V. This is what the Hobby Shop owner recommended I stay with what the book called for, so that is what I did. The engine comes with stand offs, which were exactly a fit on my application (Midwest CAP232) and has a spark plug wrench and three headed "T" handled allen wrench included. All gaskets, bolts and nuts for muffler installment, as well as anti-seize compound for the bolts, a parts break down with an exploded view, and instructions comes with the engine. All together, a pretty good package for just over $300. I ordered a 22x8 prop for starters and break in. So far, I have only managed to start and run the engine on the plane in my shop. It starts very easily after the usual prop thru with the choke closed to get the engine primed. Once its wet, she fired right off and with a little idle adjustment, ran and idled great. I had to do no adjustments, idle was low, top end was stout and transition was smooth between the two. Weather permitting, I'll get some flight time in on it this week sometime and we'll see just how good these engine are going to be in the real world....PACO

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

what do you mean " I had to do no adjustments"? Are you referring to the carb and "factory settings"?

paco ritter

My Feedback: (51)

No adjustments to the carb settings different from what they were from the factory settings, at least not at this point. Once I fly it and get some run time on the engine, it may require a tweaking, but as is worked right out of the box. Other adjustable settings such as timing and spark plug gap appear to be correct as issued also. Nothing but bolt it up, start it up, and go.

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

A piece of advice, there is no such thing as a gas engine that comes out of the box properly tuned. They are set rich so they work everywhere, but it's not a glow engine, you should tune it from day one properly. Your engine will thank you for it!

JIMARRINGTON

Paco,

You missed a good day to fly Saturday afternoon. Gary and I went out to test the Tiger Moth and the Zenoah G20. It ran great and I had a ball. But Gary crashed his new trainer!! Just broke the prop though. Trying to do that 3D stuff he is famous for at 3 feet off the deck. We had a good ol time.

Jim

paco ritter

My Feedback: (51)

Jake, thanks for the advice, but I think that's bascially what I just said when I answered your first question about my not having to tune the engine. It worked great as it came, at least to start and run in my shop. I will know more once it takes to the air. It will most likely require some adjustments, but I see no reason to fix it just now if it's not broken. Like I said, a little run time will tell the tale. PACO

paco ritter

My Feedback: (51)

Jim, Gary told me you guys tested the 'Moth out Sunday and he said he flew the trainer. I did mostly nothing all afternoon....but I did do a good job of it. Hope to get some stick time on the CAP this week, if the wind, rain, hail, and tornadoes will give us a break...PACO

Jake Ruddy

My Feedback: (40)

You are kind of missing the point... an engine will run pretty decent set rich.. but it's not designed to be left like that. Your plugs gum up / carbon builds up on them and everywhere else.

You should properly tune your engine from the very first run... you don't just say hey it runs fine and leave it.

paco ritter

My Feedback: (51)

I finally got the chance to get some actual run time on the new CRRC-Pro 50cc engine that I have installed in a 27% Midwest CAP. I must admit, this is the easiest starting, smoothest running engine I have owned to date. After choking until it pops, about two more flips and it's running. Very smooth idle and will idle down pretty low, too. Great transition to top end. Now I'll also have to say this is no DA or BME when it comes to turning up thr R's nor is it a ballistic power house. I have it tuned exactly as it came from the factory, maybe just a tad on the rich side on the top end, but if so, just barely as it came out of the box. I am running it with a50-1 mixture of synthetic oil. It is a brand new engine and I am trying to break it in without getting it too heated up for now. It runs great and pulls the CAP strong. Not ballistic like I said, but never really quits pulling straight up. I think it's a helluva deal at just over $300. For a "sport" engine, I don't think you could go wrong. If you are into sceaming power, look in to a BME or a DA, they'll cost you a lot more, but they may be more suited to your flying type. Otherwise, this Chinese version of a 50cc engine does a good job, especially for the money...PACO.

Ratchet

My Feedback: (1)

What RPM figures are you getting and which propeller are you using?


-R

JIMARRINGTON

I watched Paco fly this airplane yesterday and I'll add that the engine was very smooth and quiet with the stock muffler. So quiet that it seemed that the muffler may restrict the exhaust some. While the airplane had great vertical performance, it wasn't unlimited but since the motor is new, I am sure it will get stronger as it breaks in. Seemed like a real winner.


Jim

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

If you have a 4.8v ignition why use a regulator to reduce a higher battery volatge? It's a lot cheaper and generally lighter to simply pick up an 800-1,000 mAh 4.8v nicad for the ignition...

As for an increase in rpm as the engine "breaks in", if you see a 100 rpm gain between then and now I'd be surprised. More gain will be had with tuning the engine and propping it correctly for the application, regardless of make. The idle may improve as it breaks in but that will likely be the extent of a notable performance gain after break in. What's inside the engine and it's longevity will determine if it's a good value, not the first few runs.

I'm certain we're all looking forward to how it shapes up in the months to come.

JIMARRINGTON

He was using a lithium battery pack. Thats why. Lighter than nicads or nimhs and higher capacity.

Jim

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Being brand new to R/C, I wasn't aware of the differences between nicads and lithiums Thanks for the enlightenment.

Unless he was using li-polys for the ignition the weight difference between a regulator with a lithium ion and a 800-1,000mAh AA nicad is close, if there is any difference at all. If you do the pricing you'll find the simple nicad wins out by a large margin over a battery and regulator. If he was using a li-poly moving to a nicad improves the safety margin by miles. Lithium ions also better the safety margin for the average modeler. Decisions should not always be about a gram or three of weight, other factors are also important. The winner on this one was the hobby dealer since he sold more product to a guy that likely already had what he needed sitting on the shelf at home.

paco ritter

My Feedback: (51)

As Jim stated, I was using Lithium batteries on the engine and the receiver. I do this because I choose to, not because it is a weight savings, better value, more high tech, prettier or anything else. I have migrated from Nicad to Nimhs to Lithiums. I have gotten away from anthing else and doubt that I'll ever go back, for no other reason than that I choose not to. So, that being explained, after consulting the seller of the engine about the 4.8 suggested voltage in the instruction manual, he said that I should stay with that voltage and not try 6v on the ignition, even though he did not know for sure if it would be a problem. I chose to follow his instructions. I had a 6v regulator on hand, but not a 4.8v, so I had to order one from Don's Hobby. When it came in, and the weather finally played along, I went flying. As a side note, I also use 4.8v lithium batteries on my dual ignition 3W150, as stated by the manufacturer. But with all my other engines, I have most exclusively used 6v ignition, and up until recently, Nimh batteries on them.

Ratchet, I did not tach the engine, but I am using a 22x8 TBM (Troy Built Models) prop. First one of these props I have ever had. For my "sport flying" capabilites, the prop seems to work quite well, as does the engine and the Midwest CAP airplane. Were I a better pilot, more in tune with today's 3D flying, etc, I might choose every thing differently, but all suits my flying style as is.

In my honest opinion, as I stated earlier, this engine should prove to be a great "sport flyier" for those who like to just fly and not go balistic from one end of the field to the other or do nothing but hover right over the runway. I am not sure this would be the engine for you. It seems to be very dependable, good power, and priced right, but like I said before, it is not a DA or a BME. I do think those flying style I mentioned above could be done with this engine, but the plane would really have a lot of input in the engines abilities to do those type flying styles. Of course, I guess that's true with any plane/engine combination.

Also as Jim mentioned, the muffler is very quite, kinda large, and may actually be restricting the engine power wise somewhat. But once again, I like it like it is and doubt I'd go to the trouble of changing it.

As a last note, I am using 50:1 Bel Ray oil in this engine, same as I use in my Sachs 4.2 and my 3W 150 with no problems so far on any of these engines. Same oil and mix that most all of the big bird guys fly at my field. DA100, Kroma100, Kroma180, DL50, DA50 DA85, DA150, 3W150, just a few of the engines at my field that I know run this mixture. Many more, I just can't recall all of them now.

Ratchet

My Feedback: (1)

I ended up buying one of these GF50i engines from Ray at PRCModel.com here in Canada. So far, I'm very impressed. The quality of the engine casing and machining look very good. I mounted it on my test stand and fueled up with a 32:1 Pennzoil mix. Engine started on the second flip after the initial choking. It was running very well. Fairly quiet and seems to have a low vibration level. I haven't played with the needles, other then ensuring they were both at 1.5 turns. With a 22x8 prop, I was getting 6400 RPMs. I'm sure this will improve with tuning and a little more run time.

I think this is going to turn out to be a really nice engine ... only time will tell.

=R

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I am looking into this engine and I need at least 25lbs of thrust. I am building a P-40N that will weigh around 23 to 24 lbs when completed. I have used TBM props for while now and I know they really put a load on the engine, but they do pull very heard. What kind of RPM's are you getting with the TBM 22x8 prop. If you are over 6500RPM with that prop I will be getting on of these engine. I have a Brillelli 46GT that spins a TBM 21x8 prop ay 6500RPM. I know the Brillelli 46GT spins a Xoar 22x8 prop at 6500RPM so you can see the TBM props are putting a heavier load on the engine.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I was out trying 22" props on a Taurus 52 a couple of weeks ago. Took 5 different props out and the TBM was the worst. A Xoar 23-8 and a Vess 22-A were tied for next to worst. Menz 22-8 came in second best of the group, with an NX 22-8 winning the day. I didn't bother taking rpm numbers, I was only interested in comparing thrust performance under actual conditions.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

PAT - and *** ALL *** the people shouted "AMEN!!!!"
(At least those that have learned the same thing through the same trials....)

My preference above ALL props for overall efficiency (thrust and rpm) is the NX, bar none. And FWIW - my tests and experience exactly replicate your statements above.

Except that you didn't mention in your comparison how absolutely beyond terrible the Zinger and Master Airscrew and Top Flite are, but I figured you left them out because you were comparing "propellers" and not "Paint stirs"...

Well stated!!!!!!!!!!

Ratchet

My Feedback: (1)

Hey guys - I was swinging a Xoar 22x8 propeller.


-R

paco ritter

My Feedback: (51)

jstanton, I will try to get some rpm numbers the next time I take my CAP to the field to fly, but that my be a few days yet. I personally liked the BME props sold by BME Engines before they stopped selling them. Since the ownership has changed, maybe they will start selling them again. These are not the same props as sold by BME Aircraft. I am still in search for the right prop for my engine/plane combo.

doublesixes

Can someone post the distance between where the standoffs meet the firewall and the outside of the prop hub for the CRRC Pro 50 ?
I have a 77 inch CG Edge and my DL 50 won't fit in there by a full inch. I'd rather get this red engine if it will fit inside the Edge's cowl without doing major surgery.
I know the engine's length (117 mm) but I have not seen a pic showing the standoffs that come with the engine.
Thanks in advance.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Without any shadow of a doubt and with 100% knowledge, the props that BME Engines used to sell are Xoar. You might have some strange desire to debate that but I used to spend a lot of time in conversation with Keith, and he was the man importing them.

Bob,

I left the MSC home to keep the playing field fair and wasn't mixing any paint.....

paco ritter

My Feedback: (51)

Pat Roy, that is good info to know, I'll have to give the XOAR props a try. I always like the BME props on my 100cc Kroma, but they became scarce, so I switched to other brands, never really finding one I liked as well.

doublesixes

Does the engine come with standoffs? If so, what's their length?